Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII - Page 6 - diyAudio
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Old 18th October 2010, 03:34 AM   #51
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limono View Post
I think you're obsessing too much about this table. The reality is, with the big motor, belt and idler wheel it is going to be a noisy clunker no matter what I'm quite sure it won't match SME table in any area but it will be fun to listen .I'd just stick the table in some butcher block plinth, set up an arm and give it a listen before you invest any more in the machine.I think you will hear right away if it's worth pouring more money into it or not.
You may well be right, however I know people who own one or more of these plus an SME or two and they tell me while they have different virtues the overall performance properly restored and in a good plinth is comparable. (That is a question I will be able to answer obviously..) Besides if I was blindly confident would it be as fun? As an aside I am constantly surprised at how well some of this vintage performs compared to more modern solutions. I will have a loaner plinth shortly to try, and the long term solution actually isn't going to be that expensive.
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Old 18th October 2010, 03:45 AM   #52
limono is offline limono  United States
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Yeah , I guess I know some of them too .They like to play country music , bluegrass and ZZ Top from time to time and while they do, they have a foot taping measuring device to determine the quality of the playback-just joking but how many of top performing tables a man should have ???
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Old 18th October 2010, 04:00 AM   #53
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Originally Posted by limono View Post
Yeah , I guess I know some of them too .They like to play country music , bluegrass and ZZ Top from time to time and while they do, they have a foot taping measuring device to determine the quality of the playback-just joking but how many of top performing tables a man should have ???
I only have room for a couple and inclinations towards not much more.. I have a few friends who have considerable numbers and models of all of the (un)usual suspects.
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Old 18th October 2010, 05:33 AM   #54
jloveys is offline jloveys  Belgium
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Hi Kevin, I just read that you are interested to build a slate plinth for your TD 124 MKII. I have done this 2 years ago and I can tell you that it is a major upgrade and even better , also add a slate tonearm board. No muffin grummets, direct bolted to the plinth, I use the grummets underside.

Jean Vey
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Old 18th October 2010, 05:39 AM   #55
jloveys is offline jloveys  Belgium
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Here are some pics of underside :P1010017.JPG

P1010020.JPG
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Old 18th October 2010, 04:23 PM   #56
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Hi Kevin, I just read that you are interested to build a slate plinth for your TD 124 MKII. I have done this 2 years ago and I can tell you that it is a major upgrade and even better , also add a slate tonearm board. No muffin grummets, direct bolted to the plinth, I use the grummets underside.

Jean Vey
Thanks so much for posting - yes I plan to go with a custom built slate/hardwood plinth and should have it in about a month.

The details of your plinth look well thought out and indeed I plan to make provisions for a slate arm board for an eventual 12" arm on this TT. (7.5cm of slate and 2.5 - 5.0cm of hardwood)

Have you compared this to any more modern tables?

Other details you care to share - arm, cartridge, mods, rebuild, etc?
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Last edited by kevinkr; 18th October 2010 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 19th October 2010, 06:02 PM   #57
limono is offline limono  United States
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I think my bearing are too loose and decided to put new sintered bronze bushings. The thing is when I slide those bushings (dry)on the spindle they are quite loose as well (will swal up once the absorb the oil?) . Any hint how to proceede with replacement?
W
Also where did you purchase 3+1 turbine oil?
Regards, W
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Old 20th October 2010, 04:27 PM   #58
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Originally Posted by limono View Post
I think my bearing are too loose and decided to put new sintered bronze bushings. The thing is when I slide those bushings (dry)on the spindle they are quite loose as well (will swal up once the absorb the oil?) . Any hint how to proceede with replacement?
W
Also where did you purchase 3+1 turbine oil?
Regards, W
The oil actually has a high enough viscosity that it will fill the gap between the bearing and the spindle - it actually should ride on a film of oil. I would expect the un-oiled bearings to be somewhat loose, just how loose I am not sure. They won't swell exactly but there will be a film of oil on the surface that is some thousandths of an inch thick.

Here is what you need to do to those bearings and for lubrication guidelines in general: Nifty's THORENS model TD 124 See the motor rebuild information for how to properly impregnate the bearings with fresh oil.

You'll need some sort of small bearing puller to do this - the new bearings can be pressed into place.

The 3 in 1 electric motor oil is carried by some better ACE hardware stores - don't confuse it with regular 3 in 1 which is not suitable. This one will be marked SAE 20 and has an image of an electric motor on the bottle. You can get it online here worst case: Three In One Electric Motor Oil, 3 oz # 10045 by WD-40 Company
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Old 20th October 2010, 04:42 PM   #59
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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The motor has quieted down very nicely, still tracking down a source of noise from the intermediate pulley which is quite independent of any idler pulley noise.

I actually hear no difference in noise when I engage and disengage the idler pulley which is encouraging because it means that any noise the idler contributes is far enough down that the intermediate pulley dominates. I plan to pull it out and check it for any slight roughness on the belt running surfaces, possibly some minor polishing of the running surface will help. I suspect the belt may be making the noise and exciting the intermediate pulley. Thorens actually recommended periodic application of talc to the belt to help it run quieter - so I will try this as well.

I think a lot of these minor noise sources can be managed. The motor is far quieter than I expected and the other things seem to be improving as I learn what works and what doesn't.

I have ordered an arm board and should have it in a week or so. I'm going to bodge a temporary plinth soon so I can listen to it.
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Old 21st October 2010, 08:06 PM   #60
limono is offline limono  United States
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Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
The oil actually has a high enough viscosity that it will fill the gap between the bearing and the spindle - it actually should ride on a film of oil. I would expect the un-oiled bearings to be somewhat loose, just how loose I am not sure. They won't swell exactly but there will be a film of oil on the surface that is some thousandths of an inch thick.

Here is what you need to do to those bearings and for lubrication guidelines in general: Nifty's THORENS model TD 124 See the motor rebuild information for how to properly impregnate the bearings with fresh oil.

You'll need some sort of small bearing puller to do this - the new bearings can be pressed into place.

The 3 in 1 electric motor oil is carried by some better ACE hardware stores - don't confuse it with regular 3 in 1 which is not suitable. This one will be marked SAE 20 and has an image of an electric motor on the bottle. You can get it online here worst case: Three In One Electric Motor Oil, 3 oz # 10045 by WD-40 Company
Kevin are you talking about main (platter bearing) or motor shaft bearing? I was talking about a play in main bearing . Maybe I just used too little oil. ?
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