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Old 1st June 2014, 12:46 PM   #1261
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I've used the heating process, learned through the experiences of Kevinkr and others as documented in this thread. It does work quite well. In fact, I've posted a few Youtube vids showing my luck with the process.

My only concern with it is the effect certain temperatures may have on some of the old oils (of unknown types & combustion temp points).

As others have noted, the old oil when coming out sometimes appears very dark, a characteristic normally written off as evidence that the old oil was badly contaminated. Some of my own efforts have also brought out dark oil, but when watching the "cooking process" closely, even at temps that according to my thermometer are below 200 degrees, I have occasionally seen some wisps of smoke, accompanied by a tell-tale burning odor. Is my thermometer off that much? I suppose it's possible, but again, I've no way of knowing exactly what are the characteristics of the oil (or a mixture of oils) in a bushing that may have passed through many hands over the decades.

My concern has been the possibility that what we are seeing, the dark oil, is not the result of just the age of the oil and impurities getting into the bushing over time, but actual combustion byproducts caused by heating the bushing past the unknown oil's combustion point - and that some of these byproducts might be getting left in the bushing.

Anyway, that was the main reason I was wondering if the vacuum chamber might be a viable alternative for evacuating old oil as well as for infusing new bushings. Even in instances where new bushings are used, there may be times when they are infused with an oil other than what I'd prefer to use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
The bearings are probably sintered.
This is a very high pressure and high temperature process.
The sintered bearing will be resistant to heating, I suspect at least 200C will do absolutely no harm.
Try cooking the sintered bearing in the oven set to 150C, or even 175C.
Some of the old oil will run out.

The sintered bearing may even tolerate 300C, but I cannot give any warranty if you try going that high.
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Old 1st June 2014, 03:18 PM   #1262
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Guys, we've drifted pretty far from the intent of this thread - let's move these posts and start another thread.

(Preceding post excluded - it's on topic)
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Old 1st June 2014, 03:21 PM   #1263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifttrust View Post
This is the one I'm considering:

Click the image to open in full size.

It's 49mm diameter, 3 watts, with 2.7 oz-in torque.
Thanks. I had been looking at those and even the smaller 35mm versions. Nice to know that they are very quiet. I really don't know how much torque is needed to driver a TT platter. Considering the low RPM and consequent low 9:1 gear ratio, maybe a lot?

Quote:
However if this motor were driving an idler directly I doubt the vibration could be controlled.
Precisely the the problem with my big old Rek-O-Kut motor. Just idling it's tolerably quiet. But once pressed against the pinch roller and platter, the noise is very annoying. At least Thorens put in a little belt.
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Old 1st June 2014, 03:22 PM   #1264
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
Guys, we've drifted pretty far from the intent of this thread - let's move these posts and start another thread.

(Preceding post excluded - it's on topic)
Chop out what you want to Kevin and put it in a new place. Sorry to drag this O.T. - there is just so much good info here.
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Old 1st June 2014, 03:34 PM   #1265
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We should start a motor thread .....
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Old 6th September 2014, 04:54 AM   #1266
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Default Td-124

For best td124 I & II , 145,146,147, 160, 165, 166, 121, 135, 125, parts, repairs, maintainence, upgrades and best factory fresh restorations on the planet, do your table a favor, Swiss trained by Thorens staff, see the man at (link removed). Tell them Joel sent you.
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Old 6th September 2014, 06:30 AM   #1267
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Default e50 stator coils

re: post #1154

Just an update on the new E50 replacement stator coils that I purchased from Simone Luchetti. It has been several months now with the updated motor and tt behavior is now very stable and repeatable. With some sensitivity toward ambient temperature.

Click the image to open in full size.

I think the older (mk1) models giving irregular and slow start-up times might be operating on coil sets which may have seen too much heat too often and have partially melted through their insulation. I do believe that an important component of stable motor speed is the temperature at which the motor operates.... and worn coils cause it to run too hot.


just sayin.

-Steve
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Old 6th September 2014, 10:36 AM   #1268
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Quote:
I have had these installed. I would not recommend doing it by your self. They are however incredible coils.
You seem to be unaware of where you are posting. Everyone here works on their own projects. Obviously not you.
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Old 7th September 2014, 11:00 AM   #1269
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Thread has been cleaned up and brought back on track.

jr186262 Continually posting about some guru who is reputed to work magic on these products, and yet refusing to share that information with others is not what this forum is about.

If you wish to promote 3rd party services then there are other more suitable channels for you to do so.
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Old 7th September 2014, 03:36 PM   #1270
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Steve, those coils look very well made. Did you have any difficulty installing them? I assume shims were not required?
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