my latest iteration of "Nanook's 219 tonearm".. - Page 44 - diyAudio
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Old 18th September 2013, 08:33 PM   #431
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It does- 'Hip, Hip, Hooray!'
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Old 21st September 2013, 02:21 PM   #432
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Stealth 4 001.jpg

Stealth 4 002.JPG

Stealth 4 003.JPG

Hello Everyone
Took time away from the linear tracker to finish off the unipivot- and you know what? Arrow shafts rule!! As soon as I hooked it up I could tell there was something special there. I know I've drifted from Stew's original design with the hanging counterweight (have a few ideas of my own on this one-think Roksan's 'Zi' mod counterweight on the Tabriz) but I am mightily impressed with the results.
Chris

Anyone with a modicum of DIY skill can make one-it cost me next to nothing to make-come on, everyone start buying arrow shafts and get on with it........
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Old 21st September 2013, 08:22 PM   #433
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default Everybody jump in...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisG139 View Post
Hello Everyone
Took time away from the linear tracker to finish off the unipivot- and you know what? Arrow shafts rule!! As soon as I hooked it up I could tell there was something special there.
At least that's what I think. I'd be very interested in your listening impressions, and your complete system description. Please email me or PM me should you not want to post the information on the forum, and any comparisons (direct or from memory). I ask all that try this dirt simple tonearm to do the same. If need be, perhaps a "219 listening impressions" thread could be started.

Quote:
I know I've drifted from Stew's original design with the hanging counterweight (have a few ideas of my own on this one-think Roksan's 'Zi' mod counterweight on the Tabriz) but I am mightily impressed with the results.
The hanging counterweight is a good thing, and I suspect it is partially responsible for the good sound (I can present some arguments for this thinking). It does help lower the centre of gravity enough to stabilize the arm. I do use hanging counterweights myself.

Quote:
Anyone with a modicum of DIY skill can make one-it cost me next to nothing to make-come on, everyone start buying arrow shafts and get on with it........
MY thoughts exactly. My original though was to make an improved Altman DIY tonearm: better materials an more precise parts. You can make this on your kitchen table to a very high standard of performance. I do have issues regarding the machining of the arrow shafts and care that must be taken to minimize any possible hazards. Common sense should be exercised.

Chris, thanks for the kind words and the encouragement to others. I will state that a complete arm of my construction without a counterweight should weigh in at approximately 26.5 with all hardware (cartridge, cartridge screws, internal wiring, installed female bearing cup, headshell, and finger lift). I took some pictures of the my arm on a scale, but the digital scale readout can't be read via the photo.
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Old 23rd September 2013, 03:27 PM   #434
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New Counterweight 001.jpg

New Counterweight 002.jpg

New Counterweight 003.jpg

Here are some pictures with the counterweight as per Stew's design. I had the odd couple of minutes and thought it worth a try. Guess what? A resounding success!

I have owned a lot of quite expensive arms: Clearaudio Tangent, Opus 3 Cantus, Morch UP4, OL (different ones), Notts Analogue Mentor, Syrinx, Ittok, Kuzma Stogi unipivot etc........ This compares extremely well and betters most of them.

Great detail and space, excellent tracking, low surface noise............

Anyone who doesn't have a try at making this doesn't know what they are missing. You will (I hope) understand that I know what I'm talking about- the deck in the picture began life as an LP12-it's much better now by the way.

Go on-take up archery and you'll never look back- no bull! Pardon the pun.
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Old 23rd September 2013, 03:54 PM   #435
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default wow! That's a pretty "heady" endorsement...

Chris: please PM me.

Well Chris I can't say that I've owned a lot of good arms, but have a had a few and have listened to a lot.. A Sumiko Premier MMT(as installed on my Oracle Alex MkII), a SME IIIS (bought as an "upgrade to the MMT, but wasn't), a Linn Akito II (improved, "MC suitable" unlike the original Akito and Basic Linn arms) and my SME 309 (bought as an insurance replacement for the IIIS and still residing on my now old Alexandria). I think that as is (no internal dampening just the plain old shaft), the 219 betters 2 or 3 and matches the '309 in performance (it may be better it but comes down to personal taste and cartridge matching). At least it is in the same ballpark. And adding mass to the arm can be very easy to adjust for compatibility with heavier and/or more compliant cartridges than the Ortofon MC-3 Turbo or the Grado Sig* MCZ that I like so much. With heavier or more compliant cartridges internal dampening may be required.

My complete 12" arm with (Grado) cartridge, mounting screws, finger lift, headshell and internal wiring is about 26.5 grams.

The "hung" counter-weight as pictured in Chris' last photos is essentially what I started with. I have looked at the Tabriz Zi counterweight and it does seem that it could be good, but I'd have to get a friend (Mike) to make me one.
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Old 25th September 2013, 02:05 AM   #436
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default a picture or two of a dangling weight and the scale measurement

OK, here's a picture or two...

I had to enhance the picture of the scale reading as it was unreadable unless absolutely huge and zoomed in, but it is THE TRUTH. The "dangling weight" picture shows how I did that: here I used some solid copper wire and knotted it to a piece of dowel that goes through the centre of a salvaged counter-weight. Good thread would do the job (perhaps even better). Once the tracking force is adjusted via a scale, the azimuth can be adjusted by moving the knot in relation to the arm so that it grabs the arm in a different location. Simple, but it works. I had originally just used tape to provide some level of friction to hold the counter-weight in-situ, but here you see some 3/8" heat-shrink tubing installed on the arm.
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Old 25th September 2013, 08:35 PM   #437
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Default Counterweight weight

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanook View Post
OK, here's a picture or two...

I had to enhance the picture of the scale reading as it was unreadable unless absolutely huge and zoomed in, but it is THE TRUTH. The "dangling weight" picture shows how I did that: here I used some solid copper wire and knotted it to a piece of dowel that goes through the centre of a salvaged counter-weight. Good thread would do the job (perhaps even better). Once the tracking force is adjusted via a scale, the azimuth can be adjusted by moving the knot in relation to the arm so that it grabs the arm in a different location. Simple, but it works. I had originally just used tape to provide some level of friction to hold the counter-weight in-situ, but here you see some 3/8" heat-shrink tubing installed on the arm.
Hi there N: The counter weight looks large, is it still 88grams (slug, dowel, wire)? After your explanation, I now understand the reason for underhanging counterweight
...regards, Michael
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Old 26th September 2013, 03:39 AM   #438
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default small counter-weight...

I'm assuming it is the 80 gram range, as my scale only reads to 50 grams or so. Dimensions are 31mm (diameter) X 18mm (high). The centre hole is 10mm (diameter). The dowel could be trimmed down and thread could be used instead of solid core copper wire. The weight savings might be a couple of grams....
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Old 26th September 2013, 09:18 AM   #439
Jay1234 is offline Jay1234  United Kingdom
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Hi guys,

Just back from Italy mmm good coffee & so cheep in comparison to the exstortinstly priced rubbish we get hear.
Anyway as to arms.
Did I miss something about how to make an easy VTA, adjustable arm ??
Would be very interested in any designs .
The on ly arms that seem to display simple on the fly VTA also seem to use micrometers, which could be a bit pricy for what we are doing !
So something for all to think about
Jay
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Old 26th September 2013, 12:27 PM   #440
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default on the fly VTA adjustment...

Jay,

nope you haven't really missed much, just some discussion.

VTA is usually correct when the arm is parallel to the record (So sez SME ). VTA adjustment on-the-fly is beyond what should be done, considering the low buy-in to this arm. Do as your conscience tells you, but I don't thing uni-pivots work well with on-the-fly VTA adjustments. Any sort of locking collar with a set screw can be made to work easily enough so that there is an adjustable VTA, or a similar mount to Chris'.
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