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Old 29th September 2010, 05:19 PM   #11
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A while ago I bought a Thorens TD 126 mkIII. There is no visible wear in the main bearing.
When I lift the platter up it still releases with the same satisfying plop as when new!
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Old 29th September 2010, 05:51 PM   #12
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In all honesty, you are probably right about older Thorens bearings being fine. On reflection, this was not my main reason for choosing the route I did. I wanted to get on with the build and the design was not for a sprung sub chassis affair. As such I would be buying, at the very minimum a sub chassis and bearing, subsequently discarding most of it which is not the way I really want to treat a piece of Thorens kit. I therefore decided to go the Rega route as the parts came as I wanted them. I am happy to leave the Thorens bits available for people using them as intended.
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Old 29th September 2010, 09:45 PM   #13
tmblack is offline tmblack  United Kingdom
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Where can one buy the Rega motors and pulleys and for 40 pounds?
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Old 30th September 2010, 10:50 AM   #14
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On ebay, Rega bearing/subplatters tend to go from £5 - £15, motors £15 - £35 (used upgraded low vibration motors were on as "buy now" for £50 recently), MDF and glass turntables £10 - £20 and new drive belts from about £5. A number of the older motors are now appearing due, I would imagine, to people upgrading to the said low vibration unit which I believe is around £80ish. Because Rega plinths are fairly simple affairs anyway, their mechanicals are ideal for DIY.
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Old 2nd December 2010, 06:18 PM   #15
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kevinkr,
What do you think of the TimAudio motor? I was thinking of the same thing, but not sure of the motor. Does it need some kind of controller?
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Old 2nd December 2010, 06:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
have a look at 1200s.com
Gawd no. Stay away from that place. I spend
most of my time repairing 1200s. I use
DJHardwares.com.
No disrespect intended.
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Old 2nd December 2010, 06:52 PM   #17
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x1 View Post
kevinkr,
What do you think of the TimAudio motor? I was thinking of the same thing, but not sure of the motor. Does it need some kind of controller?
Again noting that my experience is limited, the TimAudio motor pod worked just fine during an entire day of critical listening in the living room demo system during our recent audiofest. (Line stages, phono stages, and speakers swapped in and out all day as was intended with this system.) Speed did not need to be adjusted once and the thing ran continuously for over 10 hours.

The thing is ready to go, just set it up and plug it in.. Note that depending on platter diameter you may not be able to run it at 45rpm, however my intent was for 33 rpm operation only so this was not an issue. The motor pulley is a bit too small for 45 rpm operation with an 11.8" platter. Drive is by 4lb test nylon fishing line - works great!

My main system is in a dedicated basement room where a TD-124 does the playback chores, so the "Phenolic Wonder" which is TimAudio powered probably will not be used again until the next diy meet. It incidentally worked way better than I expected and despite its unsuspended design was amazingly insensitive to footfall frequencies. No mis-tracking due to heavy footed audio types was noted.. I have attached a picture of the table which uses a recycled TD-125 MKI main bearing, platter, and sub-platter. (eBay) Arm is a Linn Basik, and the cartridge an AT-120E/T. The thing sounds way better than it has any right to..
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Last edited by kevinkr; 2nd December 2010 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 3rd December 2010, 04:46 PM   #18
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You might look at buying a used Rek-O-Kut belt drive tt (N33, etc.) off the ebay and use the motor and platter for your own rig. They used the wonderful German Papst AC synchronous motors in those decks (as did Empire TTs), and the platter bearing is also very nice-a spiral grooved steel shaft to constantly bring the lubricant up in the cast bronze well. Using a package like this, the motor pulley will already be sized correctly for accurate speed, and belts are readily available. If you definitely want to roll your own, the advantage is you can buy the crappiest looking deck possible just to get the parts, or even buy separate parts if available. Or conversely, buy a nice complete model and just use it until you get the urge to build a new plinth.

I built this deck from an ebay Papst motor from an Empire (about 60.00), a platter and bearing of unknown vintage (again about 60.00), and some woodworking. SAEC arms. Miraculously, the motor pulley size is almost perfect-I can get the speed dead on with a VPI motor controller (commonly found used for about 700.00), but in reality it's close enough that I don't really need it. The motor pod was made from a piece of aluminum tube, with some polishing.

I'm a big fan of these Papst motors, and though the idler drive Rek-O-Kuts have seen a pretty steep price increase in the last couple of years, I think the belt drive models are still pretty inexpensive. In fact, I have a N33 platter and motor on deck (hah) for an upcoming project.

Have fun
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File Type: jpg tt.JPG (207.8 KB, 151 views)
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Old 3rd December 2010, 05:03 PM   #19
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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The Rek-O-Cut suggestion is a great one IMHO, and that turntable looks very nice..
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Old 3rd December 2010, 06:12 PM   #20
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Thanks Kevin.

I was just looking over your Thorens thread-it's looking great. Was glad to see you hooked up with Steve (User510) as a source of additional info. Check out his web site if you haven't already.

I've got a couple of idlers in the works also-a G301 that's in the queue, while I'm currently working on a Rek-O-Cut (shown). These things have massive motors, it will be interesting to hear how it sounds. I've polished the aluminum plinth and platter, but I'm currently researching how to do engine turning, or jeweling, which I think would look cool. Plus, it has the advantage of adding tons more work to what would otherwise be a relatively simple job. (-:

Checked out your site too-I envy your electronic skills. Keep up the good work.
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