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Old 4th July 2010, 04:49 PM   #1
boy412 is offline boy412  United States
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Default Acurus P10 in need of help

My Acurus P10 has recently "died" so I would like to take the opportunity to upgrade some of the internal bits. This is my first post here so please forgive the noob questions.



I've read that this phono stage can benefit from upgrading the rectifier diodes and capacitors. What components should i be looking at...and are there any other upgrades I should be thinking about at this time?

Hopefully I can get this little box working again. Its been great and I'm going through vinyl withdrawal without it. I'm hoping its just a blown fuse or something. I lack the skills to do any component level troubleshooting, but things like fuses are easy enough to change. It doesn't look blown but for $2 its worth a shot.

Cheers...
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Old 4th July 2010, 05:09 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boy412 View Post
It doesn't look blown but for $2 its worth a shot.

This is a frightful statement. Rather get a technician.
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Old 4th July 2010, 05:23 PM   #3
boy412 is offline boy412  United States
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How so? Its a fuse...why would a technician need to do this?

Thanks...
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Old 4th July 2010, 07:10 PM   #4
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Default P10 = Potential10

I used to have the P10 but I never got it to sound transparent enough so I sold it. I wish I'd kept it though as its circuit looks quite simple and would've benefited greatly from tweaking and modifying. I never acquired the schematic. I still use the L10 line-stage and I love it so with some tweaking there no reason the P10 can't sound just as good. It has huge potential so good luck with your upgrade.

There's a rather negative review in The Audio Critic (PDF Page 23) but at least you can get an idea of its topology and measurement.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

.

Last edited by directdriver; 4th July 2010 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 4th July 2010, 08:01 PM   #5
boy412 is offline boy412  United States
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Originally Posted by directdriver View Post
I used to have the P10 but I never got it to sound transparent enough so I sold it. I wish I'd kept it though as its circuit looks quite simple and would've benefited greatly from tweaking and modifying. I never acquired the schematic. I still use the L10 line-stage and I love it so with some tweaking there no reason the P10 can't sound just as good. It has huge potential so good luck with your upgrade.

There's a rather negative review in The Audio Critic (PDF Page 23) but at least you can get an idea of its topology and measurement.
That's what I'm interested in too...making this sound better with a few carefully chosen modifications. That's why I'm here in fact! I also have a L10 and A150 so if I can resurrect this (and improve it in the process) I'd like to keep an all Acurus stack.

I read the Audio Critic review as well, although I've always been relatively pleased with it. For the $ (I picked it up for @ $250 used) I could see doing far worse.

Thanks for the post...
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Old 4th July 2010, 08:19 PM   #6
boy412 is offline boy412  United States
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The caps in the P10 are 1000μf 25v. Would replacements need to be EXACTLY the same type?

Sorry for the noob question(s).

Last edited by boy412; 4th July 2010 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 4th July 2010, 09:33 PM   #7
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How so? Its a fuse...why would a technician need to do this?

Thanks...

You gave the impression of being incapable of figuring out if a fuse is blown or not. At this level of knowledge you should avoid any kind of electrical work which exceeds changing channels on the telly.
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Old 4th July 2010, 10:40 PM   #8
boy412 is offline boy412  United States
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Originally Posted by analog_sa View Post
You gave the impression of being incapable of figuring out if a fuse is blown or not. At this level of knowledge you should avoid any kind of electrical work which exceeds changing channels on the telly.
No, I am not an imbecile. Its quite possible for a fuse to be blown or otherwise "bad" with no visible signs. The break could be obscured by the end caps for instance.

Do you have anything relevant or otherwise helpful to contribute? If not please keep your comments to yourself.
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Old 4th July 2010, 11:09 PM   #9
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boy412,

To jump ahead a bit, I think what is being said is that your fuse is easily checked with a multitester, and I'll think you'll find it doesn't blow at the end (for obvious reasons). If you're still not convinced, eliminate that as a possibility before you post that it doesn't look blown. No need to get defensive when members are trying to steer you in the right direction. If your knowledge is not up to snuff, then let those who can help do so. Electricity is no place to try winging it.
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Old 5th July 2010, 12:00 AM   #10
boy412 is offline boy412  United States
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I get defensive when people are rude. That's enough of that I think.

I'm dead in the water until I can diagnose this problem. I just don't want to pay a technician a bunch of money to do it for me. Its so much more rewarding to solve your own problems.
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