My Acurus P10 has recently "died" so I would like to take the opportunity to upgrade some of the internal bits. This is my first post here so please forgive the noob questions.
I've read that this phono stage can benefit from upgrading the rectifier diodes and capacitors. What components should i be looking at...and are there any other upgrades I should be thinking about at this time?
Hopefully I can get this little box working again. Its been great and I'm going through vinyl withdrawal without it. I'm hoping its just a blown fuse or something. I lack the skills to do any component level troubleshooting, but things like fuses are easy enough to change. It doesn't look blown but for $2 its worth a shot.
Cheers...
I've read that this phono stage can benefit from upgrading the rectifier diodes and capacitors. What components should i be looking at...and are there any other upgrades I should be thinking about at this time?
Hopefully I can get this little box working again. Its been great and I'm going through vinyl withdrawal without it. I'm hoping its just a blown fuse or something. I lack the skills to do any component level troubleshooting, but things like fuses are easy enough to change. It doesn't look blown but for $2 its worth a shot.
Cheers...
P10 = Potential10
I used to have the P10 but I never got it to sound transparent enough so I sold it. I wish I'd kept it though as its circuit looks quite simple and would've benefited greatly from tweaking and modifying. I never acquired the schematic. I still use the L10 line-stage and I love it so with some tweaking there no reason the P10 can't sound just as good. It has huge potential so good luck with your upgrade.
There's a rather negative review in The Audio Critic (PDF Page 23) but at least you can get an idea of its topology and measurement.
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I used to have the P10 but I never got it to sound transparent enough so I sold it. I wish I'd kept it though as its circuit looks quite simple and would've benefited greatly from tweaking and modifying. I never acquired the schematic. I still use the L10 line-stage and I love it so with some tweaking there no reason the P10 can't sound just as good. It has huge potential so good luck with your upgrade.
There's a rather negative review in The Audio Critic (PDF Page 23) but at least you can get an idea of its topology and measurement.
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That's what I'm interested in too...making this sound better with a few carefully chosen modifications. That's why I'm here in fact! I also have a L10 and A150 so if I can resurrect this (and improve it in the process) I'd like to keep an all Acurus stack.
I read the Audio Critic review as well, although I've always been relatively pleased with it. For the $ (I picked it up for @ $250 used) I could see doing far worse.
Thanks for the post...
You gave the impression of being incapable of figuring out if a fuse is blown or not. At this level of knowledge you should avoid any kind of electrical work which exceeds changing channels on the telly.
No, I am not an imbecile. Its quite possible for a fuse to be blown or otherwise "bad" with no visible signs. The break could be obscured by the end caps for instance.
Do you have anything relevant or otherwise helpful to contribute? If not please keep your comments to yourself.
boy412,
To jump ahead a bit, I think what is being said is that your fuse is easily checked with a multitester, and I'll think you'll find it doesn't blow at the end (for obvious reasons). If you're still not convinced, eliminate that as a possibility before you post that it doesn't look blown. No need to get defensive when members are trying to steer you in the right direction. If your knowledge is not up to snuff, then let those who can help do so. Electricity is no place to try winging it.
To jump ahead a bit, I think what is being said is that your fuse is easily checked with a multitester, and I'll think you'll find it doesn't blow at the end (for obvious reasons). If you're still not convinced, eliminate that as a possibility before you post that it doesn't look blown. No need to get defensive when members are trying to steer you in the right direction. If your knowledge is not up to snuff, then let those who can help do so. Electricity is no place to try winging it.
Fuses are generally provided ONLY to prevent a fire hazard in the event of a component failure, if properly chosen they should never blow in actual use.
A blown fuse is generally a very good indication that something significant has gone wrong. Amongst other things you could have a failed transformer, shorted rectifier, filter cap, or regulator IC. (In a small number of cases a fuse that is marginally rated and/or is quite old may have thermally fatigued due to many inrush cycles and has failed, a tech will know how to determine this.)
Indiscriminant replacement of a blown fuse without understanding why it blew in the first place could well lead to further damage to your unit.
As an aside I have a lot of component audio and video gear that is pushing a decade or more in some cases, not one fuse has blown to date..
(And I spent 15yrs + designing consumer electronics professionally so my fuse comments are based on typical design criteria for these devices.)
On a more constructive note do you have a good multimeter, and can make a mains ballast lamp to test whether or not there is more to this than a blown fuse? (The ballast lamp is wired in series with the ac power to the device to be tested and in the event of a circuit fault will limit the power to something reasonable if the right size bulb is chosen - in this case I think 25W is a good starting point.)
Get yourself some good tools from Mouser/Digikey including a decent solder iron.. Dikes, needle nose and good wire strippers are a must if you are serious.
Do some reading on basic electronics theory and troubleshooting as well. See if you can find someone local to provide some guidance if possible.
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Thanks so much for your post. I was waiting for a decent excuse to purchase a multi tester...
I'll start looking for a good technician...who hopefully isn't as difficult to find as a good mechanic!
Probably even harder..
Try to find someone who can recommend a tech to you, probably here is as good a place to start as any.. Wish I had better advice.
I just had an inspiration, contact Soundsmith and see if they can repair your pre-amp.. These guys are really good, and do more than just exotic cartridges and retips..
Soundsmith - repair
Soundsmith - repair
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