Rega P3 re-wiring and vibration damping

triskadecaphobic · 21st June 2010, 01:19 PM

1) Re-wiring:
The original P3 wiring looks total crap. I want to replace it with a 250$ kimber TaK CU or The 230$ incognito kit. which is best ? What is so special about the incognito making it a dedicated solution ?
Some P3 owners I know are totally against it. "Sell it and buy a more expensive one" was the common response.
I have skilled gentle hands

. Should I mess with it or is it too risky ? I read that the bearings will need to be replaced in the re-wiring process. Is it correct ?
Is this upgrade considered to be a good value for the money ?
Is there any step by step guide for that ?
Found these 2 links in other forums but they don't work for me:
http://www.melhuish.org/audio/rewire.html
http://www.hi-fi.com/diy/rega/
2) Vibration damping:
When coming to put to bright star audio sorbothane dampers I noticed that the weight on the 3 legs of the Planar 3 is not evenly distributed.
The hind leg has much more weight on it so when adding the 3 soft pads I see that the hind pad is compressed to half the thickness of the other ones
Is this the design ? What can be done about it ?
I also noticed that the screws on the original legs are loose to an extent that they can move laterally in a free manner. Is this lateral movement meant to dump vibration or is it a source of instability that requires tightening the screws ?

Thanks

Nanook · 21st June 2010, 02:46 PM

I have rewired 1 Rega (RB250), using good quality silver plated copper with Teflon dielectric. It sounds very good, and an enormous upgrade to the standard Rega wiring.

The Ingognito kits usually are made up, all you have to do is fish the wire from the IC portion to the headshell and connect. so there are no solder joints between the cartridge clips and RCA (male) outputs, Fewer solder joints=better sound.

The TaK Cu is terminated to hook up to a DIN plug as found on the base of most arms. It does not include any internal wiring, which is what really needs to be changed as a minimum. So you would still need some internal wire.

triskadecaphobic · 21st June 2010, 03:04 PM

Thanks,
Does the quality of the incognito match the quality of the Tak Cu ?

21st June 2010, 01:19 PM	#1
triskadecaphobic diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010	Rega P3 re-wiring and vibration damping 1) Re-wiring: The original P3 wiring looks total crap. I want to replace it with a 250$ kimber TaK CU or The 230$ incognito kit. which is best ? What is so special about the incognito making it a dedicated solution ? Some P3 owners I know are totally against it. "Sell it and buy a more expensive one" was the common response. I have skilled gentle hands . Should I mess with it or is it too risky ? I read that the bearings will need to be replaced in the re-wiring process. Is it correct ? Is this upgrade considered to be a good value for the money ? Is there any step by step guide for that ? Found these 2 links in other forums but they don't work for me: http://www.melhuish.org/audio/rewire.html http://www.hi-fi.com/diy/rega/ 2) Vibration damping: When coming to put to bright star audio sorbothane dampers I noticed that the weight on the 3 legs of the Planar 3 is not evenly distributed. The hind leg has much more weight on it so when adding the 3 soft pads I see that the hind pad is compressed to half the thickness of the other ones Is this the design ? What can be done about it ? I also noticed that the screws on the original legs are loose to an extent that they can move laterally in a free manner. Is this lateral movement meant to dump vibration or is it a source of instability that requires tightening the screws ? Thanks

21st June 2010, 02:46 PM	#2
Nanook diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Chinook Country.Alberta	triskadecaphobic, your links get me to "404" file not found. I have rewired 1 Rega (RB250), using good quality silver plated copper with Teflon dielectric. It sounds very good, and an enormous upgrade to the standard Rega wiring. The Ingognito kits usually are made up, all you have to do is fish the wire from the IC portion to the headshell and connect. so there are no solder joints between the cartridge clips and RCA (male) outputs, Fewer solder joints=better sound. The TaK Cu is terminated to hook up to a DIN plug as found on the base of most arms. It does not include any internal wiring, which is what really needs to be changed as a minimum. So you would still need some internal wire. __________________ stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane."

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21st June 2010, 03:04 PM	#3
triskadecaphobic diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010	Thanks, Does the quality of the incognito match the quality of the Tak Cu ?

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