Oh sorry missed the 240 volt info won't work for me.
I think if you put up a full detailed list of mods,parts ect. A quite few people including me would be very happy to have a full mod plan to work with. It is hard to keep track with the mods all broken up into posts. Someone should think about selling a kit for this thing.
I think if you put up a full detailed list of mods,parts ect. A quite few people including me would be very happy to have a full mod plan to work with. It is hard to keep track with the mods all broken up into posts. Someone should think about selling a kit for this thing.
It gave me more joy because it was my first venture into the tube world. It opened my eyes as to the possibilities of tube sound. I learned about Capacitors, resistors. How a phono amp works. How to bypass a cap and why. For the price, its fantastic and unbeatable. Now, We can't compare a $200 phonostage to a $1200 phonostage. The pair of 47k resitors I have in the Cornet2 alone cost $40 bucks. The Yaqin is highly recommended!
Why not? And are the resistors naked foil? If so, do you know about Texas Components?
Yes, they are Vishay VAR-Series "naked" Z201 Z-FOIL RESISTOR. aka. Texas Components TX2575 or Charcroft Electronics CAR Series.
Here is my video with the Yaqin in all it glory using it as a Phono/preamp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edq79Y9l8uY
and here is a video using the Cornet 2 / Aikido linestage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHf0BixBGkE
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That's great. I suppose those two replaced were on phono line?
I'm planing to replace all of those blue caps (as someone recommended here before is "must") with the Russians K73-16B, also recommended as great caps.
I was thinking to buy Sonicaps, but these two only, cost more than ten K73
It is the only changes to it, and it's just great! The caps was purchased from ebay(russian guy) and was $13 incl shipping to Norway (batch of 6). They are on the big side and had to modify the bottom plate to make another 5-10mm more space inside.That's great. I suppose those two replaced were on phono line?
I'm planing to replace all of those blue caps (as someone recommended here before is "must") with the Russians K73-16B, also recommended as great caps.
I was thinking to buy Sonicaps, but these two only, cost more than ten K73
I appreciate much your input about mods on Yaqin, very interesting and informative.This is a absolutely fantastic Phono/preamp if you are starting to get into tubes. I can't recommend it enough. I've added a better Volume pot, I have 1 UF sonicap gen 1 bypassed with sonicaps gen 2 .01 UF caps. I've added bradley allen gridstoppers. I have caddock's 47K resistors. I've also added some bypass caps in the powersupply. For the price, its unbeatable. This preamp has given me more joy than the $1200 Cornet 2 I have. I have to double check everything and put up the Yaqin for sale. All its doing is collecting dust.
If not the problem could you add some photo of the volume pot that you've added/replaced, or just write which one is it, Japan Alps but what type? Thanks!
The final mod of Yaqo
Here were no more feedbacks since my last post, well let me continue with my finished mod of this preamp.
After the long run I finally came to the end of this project. I’m so pleased with all what I've done here and acomplished with this modification that it will take some time before I even get used to the marvelous sound that is coming out of this unit now.
The changes include replacement of all main caps, exluding those of power, phono resistors, etc., here’s the list of all parts;
6x 1uF 5% 400V PETP K73-16 Capacitors
2x 0.1uF K75-10 hybrid
8x 0.01uF PIO Caps K40Y-9
4X Takman REX25 carbon film resistor 1/4W 2%
Alps 50KAX2 LOG type Volume Pot
3X ELNA SILMIC II Caps 25V 220uF
1X ELNA SILMIC II Capacitor 50V 2.2uF
1X Panasonic FC Electrolytic Capacitors 2700uF/25V
6X 0.01uF 200V PIO Capacitors K40Y-9
22 ohm 10W High Power Resistor
Heavy Duty 30A ON OFF Toggle SWITCH
CMC RCA Sockets Silver Plated 805-2.5AG
wooden front plate and metal spikes
+ some new wiring inside to connect new RCAs
and some pictures:
I have removed all Koreans Pilkor blue caps and put all NOS Russians (Soviet era) instead.
Phono RCAs are on the left side of the housing now, that way it makes front mask free. For a fun and new outlook placed this little metal dragon emblem on it. 2012 is the dragon year in China I thought it would be nice to mark my work that way. Although it’s more international unit now that has mixture of parts from China, Russia, USA and UK that makes it totally different device from what it was before.
Different look that is also much more practical, so no more obstacles of the aluminum handle. But what’s most important – the sound! There is so much more transparency, beefier sound, details,... No more boomy bass and totally get rid of the muddy treble or harsh highs that was issue before. Sound is now very clear and crisp as it should be. With all these new capacitors this preamp simply shines. There is no annoying noise on high levels anymore, in fact – no noise at all, even with the volume pot turned to the end (on empty of course). AMAZING!
What I thought before that tubes makes the only difference and spent a lot of money buying and trying various lamps was totally wrong. Some, especially RCA clear tops do ring louder but none does make noise out on speakers - they are all death quiet. So now no matter what production i put in they all sound better, much much better then before, however of all I have these are my favorites; Sylvania CHS-5751 W1 and Philips JAN 6189W.
I think it’s time to enjoy some old music with a new sound now!
cheers
Here were no more feedbacks since my last post, well let me continue with my finished mod of this preamp.
After the long run I finally came to the end of this project. I’m so pleased with all what I've done here and acomplished with this modification that it will take some time before I even get used to the marvelous sound that is coming out of this unit now.
The changes include replacement of all main caps, exluding those of power, phono resistors, etc., here’s the list of all parts;
6x 1uF 5% 400V PETP K73-16 Capacitors
2x 0.1uF K75-10 hybrid
8x 0.01uF PIO Caps K40Y-9
4X Takman REX25 carbon film resistor 1/4W 2%
Alps 50KAX2 LOG type Volume Pot
3X ELNA SILMIC II Caps 25V 220uF
1X ELNA SILMIC II Capacitor 50V 2.2uF
1X Panasonic FC Electrolytic Capacitors 2700uF/25V
6X 0.01uF 200V PIO Capacitors K40Y-9
22 ohm 10W High Power Resistor
Heavy Duty 30A ON OFF Toggle SWITCH
CMC RCA Sockets Silver Plated 805-2.5AG
wooden front plate and metal spikes
+ some new wiring inside to connect new RCAs
and some pictures:
I have removed all Koreans Pilkor blue caps and put all NOS Russians (Soviet era) instead.
Phono RCAs are on the left side of the housing now, that way it makes front mask free. For a fun and new outlook placed this little metal dragon emblem on it. 2012 is the dragon year in China I thought it would be nice to mark my work that way. Although it’s more international unit now that has mixture of parts from China, Russia, USA and UK that makes it totally different device from what it was before.
Different look that is also much more practical, so no more obstacles of the aluminum handle. But what’s most important – the sound! There is so much more transparency, beefier sound, details,... No more boomy bass and totally get rid of the muddy treble or harsh highs that was issue before. Sound is now very clear and crisp as it should be. With all these new capacitors this preamp simply shines. There is no annoying noise on high levels anymore, in fact – no noise at all, even with the volume pot turned to the end (on empty of course). AMAZING!
What I thought before that tubes makes the only difference and spent a lot of money buying and trying various lamps was totally wrong. Some, especially RCA clear tops do ring louder but none does make noise out on speakers - they are all death quiet. So now no matter what production i put in they all sound better, much much better then before, however of all I have these are my favorites; Sylvania CHS-5751 W1 and Philips JAN 6189W.
I think it’s time to enjoy some old music with a new sound now!
cheers
Hi Jadran, glad you're happy with yours. I have followed a slightly route, and mine also sounds better now. I will probably add Silmic or Blackgate caps at some point, and change the LED to purple, but I have other things to mod first.
List of my changes-
Replaced all the resistors in the RIAA loop with Takman metal film.
Replaced all the caps in the RIAA loop with Russian teflons.
Replaced 1uF caps with Wima MKP-10s , but the last 2 with Valab 2uF polyprops.
Replaced the 47k input cap with 1M Takman, and added a socket so I can bypass with smaller values to get the loading I want.
Replaced the 15R heater resistor with 20R - my amp is the 240v version.
Replaced the front RCAs with top mounted WBTs, in the holes where the switches were.
Replaced the valves with Mullard M8137s and RCA 5814As, for the moment.
Removed the switches, relay, volume control, output board.
Fitted connectors to transformer leads so I can easily remove board.
Used a now spare pair of rear sockets for output from the RIAA section - like the MS-22B.
Used original pair of rear sockets for output from 12AU7s.
Moved earth socket to the back.
Applied damping to transformer cover and chassis.
Made a cover, held on with neodymium magnets.
Put silly silicone rings round cans and caps!
Put silicone rubber feet on base.
Replaced the bridge rectifier and cap I blew when I rewired the transformer the wrong way!
Replaced the mains lead.
List of my changes-
Replaced all the resistors in the RIAA loop with Takman metal film.
Replaced all the caps in the RIAA loop with Russian teflons.
Replaced 1uF caps with Wima MKP-10s , but the last 2 with Valab 2uF polyprops.
Replaced the 47k input cap with 1M Takman, and added a socket so I can bypass with smaller values to get the loading I want.
Replaced the 15R heater resistor with 20R - my amp is the 240v version.
Replaced the front RCAs with top mounted WBTs, in the holes where the switches were.
Replaced the valves with Mullard M8137s and RCA 5814As, for the moment.
Removed the switches, relay, volume control, output board.
Fitted connectors to transformer leads so I can easily remove board.
Used a now spare pair of rear sockets for output from the RIAA section - like the MS-22B.
Used original pair of rear sockets for output from 12AU7s.
Moved earth socket to the back.
Applied damping to transformer cover and chassis.
Made a cover, held on with neodymium magnets.
Put silly silicone rings round cans and caps!
Put silicone rubber feet on base.
Replaced the bridge rectifier and cap I blew when I rewired the transformer the wrong way!
Replaced the mains lead.
Hi to everybody, I have a Yaqin like the yours, but when I bought many years ago I disassembled, I got the electrolytic cap, the diodes and the transformer and putt them into the can of the transformer. The switch and the AC connector also. I keep out the pot connecting directly the valves only for use with magnetic cartridge.
Now i just find the topic and next i will show the changes.
Now i just find the topic and next i will show the changes.
You used the metal shields to cover the tubes? F*** That! I lost some Mullards and Telefunken tubes in both slots because it overheated.
I've had no problems with mine, even when I left it turned on for 2 days with the dust cover over it! The cans can provide some screening and damping, depending on need; as I have had no problems, I think I'll leave them on.
You're cover is interesting, huge though, and I don't really believe it could keep the heat from tubes.
I friend of mine made the cage for my Yaq. (without even asking me, it was a surprise) but I don't use it mostly because it covers all - the switchers and volume pot. It's good as the cover when pre is not in use, though.
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Ah, but that isn't the dust cover! I use a fabric cover as my room seems to collect dust, and that WOULD keep the heat in.
Your cage looks like it should stop ANYTHING escaping! Mine was made from a spare piece of the sheet I use as speaker grills, it was just the right width. And there are no controls left on mine, anyway.
Your cage looks like it should stop ANYTHING escaping! Mine was made from a spare piece of the sheet I use as speaker grills, it was just the right width. And there are no controls left on mine, anyway.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I swear I don't drink
I didn't read well all your mods, and somehow thought that there are switches outside, silly me. Pictures help in that case, don't you have some of interior?
Also, what did you do with the front RCA if phono's are on top, they are just out of order or..?
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