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Old 8th April 2010, 05:32 PM   #11
cabsvrt is offline cabsvrt  United States
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@Jim - What are you doing for the turntable part of your project?
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Old 19th April 2010, 03:41 PM   #12
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I'm making everything.

Standard single ball/bushing bearing assembly in a multi-material plinth.

In addition to my carbon tube I also have my bearings for the arm. I have enough 'stuff' to start fabrication of the arm pivot...
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Old 20th April 2010, 02:49 PM   #13
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Which brings me to this question:

When I mount my tube to the yoke, should the center of rotation (of the cross axle) be in line with the center of the tube (both in the same horizontal plane), in line with the center of the stylus (i.e. mount the tube high relitive to the axle), or someplace else? Does it matter?

Second, since I have complete control over everything, would there be any advantage at all to changing the 'accepted standard' of 21 degrees offset for the yoke bearings in relation to the arm tube? Since that is for 9-12" effective lengths, should I change it (more or less- I have no idea) from the 21 degrees?

If it matters, I have a 14.2" effective length and a 15 degree offset.

I think I may start a new thread...
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Old 20th April 2010, 02:55 PM   #14
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...And what's a good pivot bearing? I have ABEC 6 ceramic bearings for the yoke; however I need something for the base pivot. What is typical? Should I get another (larger) bearing for the pivot? A tapered roller bearing is the 'right' style for that use; however the frictional load may be too great...

Help!
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Old 20th April 2010, 03:53 PM   #15
dtut is offline dtut  United States
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I hope someone has answers for Jim Leach's questions in #13. I've been rassling with that, too, without much to show for it.
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Old 20th April 2010, 04:03 PM   #16
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I don't know how much it matters. Different cartridges have differing heights, so if it is 'perfect' for one, it will be bad for another...

Rega have it in the same plane (axle and arm) and that's a pretty nice arm, so I'm leaning that way.

The counterweight will most certainly be set low (~in line with the stylus), and close to the yoke.

I will probably stick with 21 degrees, as if it doesn't change for 9-12 inches, it probably won't change for 14.2 inches.

Plus, the more I change, the more reasons for it not to work!
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Old 20th April 2010, 11:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Leach View Post
Magnesium would be better still, but it is hard to get and no shop !
Very inspiring project. My father once gave me a 3' bar of magnesium from his lab and for "laughs" I lit one end with a blowtorch. I was then left with the task of putting it out.
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Old 21st April 2010, 11:30 AM   #18
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He, he...

That's right up there with:

"Do not look into laser with remaining eye."
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Old 23rd April 2010, 04:55 PM   #19
cabsvrt is offline cabsvrt  United States
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@ Scott- Magnesium is scary. A long time ago I worked as a model maker- making belt buckle originals from magnesium (recreating big elk, guys fishing and Mack Trucks. WTF?). We had a grinding machine that I ground the etched magnesium plates on, and even though there was a sign that said that the grinding machine was for magnesium only- "no steel grinding - fire hazard". One day one of the doofus's that worked there ground the tip of a screwdriver and started a fire that we tried to extinguish the fire extinguishers to no avail. The fire department was called and the entire bench in that corner of the shop went up in flames.

Clean all magnesium scraps and especially powders and granules up. Unless you like fireworks. I used to take small scraps home and light them in my parents back yard. One little .5" X 1" piece would light up the entire backyard.
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Old 24th April 2010, 10:28 AM   #20
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Hi,
That looks good.
What is the wall thickness of the tube and what is the weight of the arm with and without the end fittings.
One thing comes to mind, and you may have already thought of it yourself, would it be beneficial to incorporate a vibration damper in the balance weight assembly?
Just a thought.
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Rod
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