Couple of questions on the Linn Valhalla motor controller:
1.) Is the plinth mounted power switch momentary or maintained ?
2.) Is this board "on" all the time? I've seen several references to this always on state leading to heat related failures on this board.
3.) The part I'm having the hardest time sourcing is the power switch. Is there any reason why I can't use the existing (square -maintained -neon bulb) switch to simply send 120V to the board and just wire a jumper across the traces on the board that the switch goes to ? ( The neon on light wouldn't work -NBD.) If we need a delay between power up and motor on - I've got bunches of 12V timer relays - could set one of these to make the switch contacts either bounce or maintain after say 5 seconds of the 12V power on the board being turned on ? Or does the Valhalla really need to be idling at all times in order to work properly ?
1.) Is the plinth mounted power switch momentary or maintained ?
2.) Is this board "on" all the time? I've seen several references to this always on state leading to heat related failures on this board.
3.) The part I'm having the hardest time sourcing is the power switch. Is there any reason why I can't use the existing (square -maintained -neon bulb) switch to simply send 120V to the board and just wire a jumper across the traces on the board that the switch goes to ? ( The neon on light wouldn't work -NBD.) If we need a delay between power up and motor on - I've got bunches of 12V timer relays - could set one of these to make the switch contacts either bounce or maintain after say 5 seconds of the 12V power on the board being turned on ? Or does the Valhalla really need to be idling at all times in order to work properly ?
Do you have the schematics?
The circuit is easy to understood, but a little bit tricky.
To avoid another unwanted Power and Heatdissipation the they dindnt drive the
power Led by a simple Resistor.
The complete current for the oscillator and driver circuit draws across that Power led -irrespective
of the mode of the set.
It is that important component - without the Valhalla dos not work.
In idle state the Led is shunted (or bypassed) by an Transistor - so it will not lit.
The easiest way for solving your Problem is to solder a red Led direct to the printed circuit by
observing the right polarity.
The mains-switch is a switch-key type - NO.
To bring a Neon lit, you ca try to connect it at the DC Side of the powerstage betwen the two BUX or BUV
Transistors. An ideal connecting Point is the +Lead of the Output-capacitor to Ground. I would recommend an series resistor of
several KiloOhms (10...100)
Please excuse my terrible english
good luck!
Volker
The circuit is easy to understood, but a little bit tricky.
To avoid another unwanted Power and Heatdissipation the they dindnt drive the
power Led by a simple Resistor.
The complete current for the oscillator and driver circuit draws across that Power led -irrespective
of the mode of the set.
It is that important component - without the Valhalla dos not work.
In idle state the Led is shunted (or bypassed) by an Transistor - so it will not lit.
The easiest way for solving your Problem is to solder a red Led direct to the printed circuit by
observing the right polarity.
The mains-switch is a switch-key type - NO.
To bring a Neon lit, you ca try to connect it at the DC Side of the powerstage betwen the two BUX or BUV
Transistors. An ideal connecting Point is the +Lead of the Output-capacitor to Ground. I would recommend an series resistor of
several KiloOhms (10...100)
Please excuse my terrible english
good luck!
Volker
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