A year of so ago I rebuilt and LP12. Part of the rebuild was removing the AC motor (that coughed and wheezed at startup) and replaced it with a DC battery powered Maxon Motor (Kelly's build). I also replaced the springs and refinished the plinth.
The speed stability is excellent and for the most part i am happy with the way is all come together. However this being my first turntable and of course first LP 12 setup i pretty much winged it when it cam to cartridge alignment, suspension setting etc. There is definitely lateral movement on the board when depressed and some low level rumble which makes me think that there are some fundamentals i am just not getting. There is a Linn specialist just outside San Francisco who would charge $300 to do a full setup.
I was wondering if anyone on this forum had ever done a pro LP12 setup and if it was worth the cash or if you had any pointers for me. Of course having replaced the motor compounds some of the issues
Thanks
Neil
The speed stability is excellent and for the most part i am happy with the way is all come together. However this being my first turntable and of course first LP 12 setup i pretty much winged it when it cam to cartridge alignment, suspension setting etc. There is definitely lateral movement on the board when depressed and some low level rumble which makes me think that there are some fundamentals i am just not getting. There is a Linn specialist just outside San Francisco who would charge $300 to do a full setup.
I was wondering if anyone on this forum had ever done a pro LP12 setup and if it was worth the cash or if you had any pointers for me. Of course having replaced the motor compounds some of the issues
Thanks
Neil
bearing ?
Don't know how much of this you may have already done ? But the first thing i would check is the bottom bearing surface - the reason is that if you have a legitimate rumble problem - this is where you want to look first . Pull the platter (inner and outer) - clean it out and look at the bottom - see a mark or divot ? A mark is no big deal - a divot is a big deal and frankly I've owned and used LP-12's that had a pretty good "mark" for years without any audible rumble.Do go to the Linn website and figure out what specific oil you need in your particular bearing - there have been a number of variations over the years -most of us use the daylights out our LP-12's - so the wrong oil can eat a bearing relatively quickly.
It is far more likely that your rumble is either warp resonance problems or simply a problem with set up - cart/arm mismatch or something not quite right in your arm /armboard or suspension. Properly set up Linn's owe at least half their good reputation to being reasonably immune to feedback - in the modern era this is somewhat complicated or compromised by so many systems incorporating subwompers that will fire a lot of acoustic energy at your table/arm/cart.
Frankly - a lot of what a Linn specialist sells is experience - what exactly is your setup ?If outside their previous experience - they may be somewhat challenged ?
Don't know how much of this you may have already done ? But the first thing i would check is the bottom bearing surface - the reason is that if you have a legitimate rumble problem - this is where you want to look first . Pull the platter (inner and outer) - clean it out and look at the bottom - see a mark or divot ? A mark is no big deal - a divot is a big deal and frankly I've owned and used LP-12's that had a pretty good "mark" for years without any audible rumble.Do go to the Linn website and figure out what specific oil you need in your particular bearing - there have been a number of variations over the years -most of us use the daylights out our LP-12's - so the wrong oil can eat a bearing relatively quickly.
It is far more likely that your rumble is either warp resonance problems or simply a problem with set up - cart/arm mismatch or something not quite right in your arm /armboard or suspension. Properly set up Linn's owe at least half their good reputation to being reasonably immune to feedback - in the modern era this is somewhat complicated or compromised by so many systems incorporating subwompers that will fire a lot of acoustic energy at your table/arm/cart.
Frankly - a lot of what a Linn specialist sells is experience - what exactly is your setup ?If outside their previous experience - they may be somewhat challenged ?
lots of setup guides out there...
just do a search. The Analogue Addicts Linn setup guide is quite comprehensive. The analog dept also has one, it is essentially a html page with scanned original images inserted. It is very legible, and easy to read. Also the vinyl engine has a complete setup manual, both "original" and "updated"
It can be done if you make a setup "jig" , follow the instrux and take your time (expect to spend a few hours doing this. If not take it to your dealer, and pay the $$$
just do a search. The Analogue Addicts Linn setup guide is quite comprehensive. The analog dept also has one, it is essentially a html page with scanned original images inserted. It is very legible, and easy to read. Also the vinyl engine has a complete setup manual, both "original" and "updated"
It can be done if you make a setup "jig" , follow the instrux and take your time (expect to spend a few hours doing this. If not take it to your dealer, and pay the $$$
There's no magic in Lp12 set-up, set armboard alignment, set spring tension, relieve spring torsion by pulling them down from gromets, reset spring tension if needed to level deck. Then choose two and only two springs to twist to get an even bounce. if your armboard and platter are level you only need to adjust two of the springs to get an even bounce, the trick is not to torsion the spring as you adjust them for tension.
Be pragmatic, there's no magic to it.
Be pragmatic, there's no magic to it.
Yikes! That is a ridiculous amount to pay for setup.
The key for me was getting the platter level, as sq225917 suggested. You first get the plinth level, then adjust the springs to get the platter level. Now you will be 99% to having a perfect bounce. This is where having a nice bubble level comes in real handy. The only thing that can derail getting a nice bounce at this point is the tonearm cable dressing.
Please post a pic or two of your table if you have any. Thanks.
Jeff
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