I purchased a Luxman TT on ebay and it was damaged in shipping. The top of the plastic base and the dust cover are shattered. The tonearm and platter seem fine. The unit fires up and platter spins. Anyone have any ideas on whether or not this can be salvaged. I'm not a bad woodworker and am not afraid to take on the challenge. Is there anything I need to know? Can anyone out there help?
as a luthier your skills are ...
...way over what most (and I mean something like approaching 100%), so you have the skills.
I would strongly suggest you take the thing apart carefully, and then check what you need for clearances for the plinth from the underside. That's the only real difficulty.
send a photo if you can. Also, as a luthier, you can appreciate wood. Use good wood, or Baltic Birch plywood. No MDF , etc.
stew
...way over what most (and I mean something like approaching 100%), so you have the skills.
I would strongly suggest you take the thing apart carefully, and then check what you need for clearances for the plinth from the underside. That's the only real difficulty.
send a photo if you can. Also, as a luthier, you can appreciate wood. Use good wood, or Baltic Birch plywood. No MDF , etc.
stew
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I have pics and I have tried to add them without much success. I guess my biggest concern is the relationship of the pivot point to the spindle. Is there anything I need to know geometrically. I have never installed a tonearm so I am not sure of the nuances. I think I know what you mean regarding clearances. If I can get the pics to upload I will post them. Anything you think of that might be pertinent please pass it along.
posting pics...
attah them, don't try to inser them. The Luxman tables were quite nice looking, and apparently ok sounding. You can do a lot worse than that.
I'd remake/rebuild the top plate as close to stock as possible.
If it is an automatic or semi-auto, use a little caution
attah them, don't try to inser them. The Luxman tables were quite nice looking, and apparently ok sounding. You can do a lot worse than that.
I'd remake/rebuild the top plate as close to stock as possible.
If it is an automatic or semi-auto, use a little caution
Attachments
an understatement ....
not a bad woodworker does not equal luthier
I didn't realize sooner that the TT is all plastic...
The important stuff is getting the bearing into a stout, well built plinth. A 12" arm is a real benefit.
First make an accurate drawing of the top of the plinth (as in a top view). Measure from the centre of the spindle to the centre of the tonearm pivot bearing, the centre of the spindle bearing to the centre of the motor pulley, and the relative height of the motor belt pulley to the platter, and the relative position of the pulley to the platter spindle.
If it is a manual table, then mount the tonearm such that it is in exactly the same position as the stock location. You may find it helpful to cut the plastic plinth around the tonearm bearing or mount. I've done this in the past to salvage tonearms. That way you get something that may be easier to mount than just the tonearm, as many have a no other means to mount them (I learned this on a Dual CS5000, which has an absolutely terrible arm!). The geometry of the arm to spindle is very important, so before you do anything, I'll suggest you measure the distance from the centre of the spindle to the
If the table is an auto or semi auto type, it may have sensors below the plinth. Be carefull of the circuits and the power transformer. If no fuse is inline on the power input (AC), put one in, just as some protection on the table (again learned on th CS5000 ). Not really required but a good practice to get into.
Hopefully there is only a simple circuit board (if any)
Francop, I must say that if you can make a guitar , I am sure you can make a plinth.
If you like, I'll post a few photos as examples or if you can email them to me I'll post yours
I hope you didn't overpay for the turntable. Did the shipping company damage it, or was it misrepresented?
not a bad woodworker does not equal luthier
I didn't realize sooner that the TT is all plastic...
The important stuff is getting the bearing into a stout, well built plinth. A 12" arm is a real benefit.
First make an accurate drawing of the top of the plinth (as in a top view). Measure from the centre of the spindle to the centre of the tonearm pivot bearing, the centre of the spindle bearing to the centre of the motor pulley, and the relative height of the motor belt pulley to the platter, and the relative position of the pulley to the platter spindle.
If it is a manual table, then mount the tonearm such that it is in exactly the same position as the stock location. You may find it helpful to cut the plastic plinth around the tonearm bearing or mount. I've done this in the past to salvage tonearms. That way you get something that may be easier to mount than just the tonearm, as many have a no other means to mount them (I learned this on a Dual CS5000, which has an absolutely terrible arm!). The geometry of the arm to spindle is very important, so before you do anything, I'll suggest you measure the distance from the centre of the spindle to the
If the table is an auto or semi auto type, it may have sensors below the plinth. Be carefull of the circuits and the power transformer. If no fuse is inline on the power input (AC), put one in, just as some protection on the table (again learned on th CS5000
). Not really required but a good practice to get into.Hopefully there is only a simple circuit board (if any)
Francop, I must say that if you can make a guitar , I am sure you can make a plinth.
If you like, I'll post a few photos as examples or if you can email them to me I'll post yours
I hope you didn't overpay for the turntable. Did the shipping company damage it, or was it misrepresented?
Thanks. Still haven't been able to get the pics to attach. I will keep trying. I paid $100US. It was damaged in shipping. I should be able to recoup the cost. The seller told me that I could keep whatever I could salvage once UPS finished their investigation. The TT was in excellent shape. It is a shame. I was upset when I saw it but then I realized that a good solid wood plinth might be better than the original. I think the info you provided me will be invaluable. It is a semi-automatic. I haven't looked under the hood yet. Waiting to see if UPS wants to inspect ii so I am leaving it as found in the box.
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