I found this older Concord BD-1000 turn table and I kindof like it, the arm seems to be very well done, the belt was broken, the motor was not working.
I replaced the belt and repaired the motor, and as I already started, why not do more...
I'll replace the cartridge as soon as I can, and maybe work on the plate to make it heavier.
Anyone ever used that turntable? any ideas for mods? remake the box? its wood now but isn't my style too much, maybe aluminum.... ideas?
The whole thing is holding on some kinf of cheapo suspension. maybe change them as well.
heres some photos
I replaced the belt and repaired the motor, and as I already started, why not do more...
I'll replace the cartridge as soon as I can, and maybe work on the plate to make it heavier.
Anyone ever used that turntable? any ideas for mods? remake the box? its wood now but isn't my style too much, maybe aluminum.... ideas?
The whole thing is holding on some kinf of cheapo suspension. maybe change them as well.
heres some photos
Attachments
It looks like a manual CEC turnatable. CEC is the factory that churned out the majority of Japanese TTs.
Your goal is to remove extraneous vibration, while maintaining ridgid coupling between the record surface & the arm, and not having the damping mechanisms store energy for later release (time smear). I'd simplify the mechanics (ie remove the speed change mechanism and anything else you can live without (ie i can live without cueing). A much more robust plinth (layers of ply, mdf & metal (perhaps lead) are a budget approach), some judicial use of ductseal and maybe a ridgid metal brace from bearing to arm. I also just saw in another thread a bolt running up to the bottom of the bearing can be used to bleed off bearing vibration).
dave
Your goal is to remove extraneous vibration, while maintaining ridgid coupling between the record surface & the arm, and not having the damping mechanisms store energy for later release (time smear). I'd simplify the mechanics (ie remove the speed change mechanism and anything else you can live without (ie i can live without cueing). A much more robust plinth (layers of ply, mdf & metal (perhaps lead) are a budget approach), some judicial use of ductseal and maybe a ridgid metal brace from bearing to arm. I also just saw in another thread a bolt running up to the bottom of the bearing can be used to bleed off bearing vibration).
dave
Hi
it is definitely a C.E.C. turntable. I wned a BD-6000, which is top of the line product from 1975. I did few modifications, but do not have many pictures to post.
you may see it on my website . But here i will tell you shortly:
I threw out all the mechanics. I oiled the motor. I put self-adhesive bitumen (tar?) sheets inside the platter and underneath the plinth. I put new rubber foam into the springs (dampening). Since the BD-6000 is a quadrophony tt, i cut off the internal tonearm wiring and soldered it to RCA jacks. Of course, i bought a new belt.
Please note that the arm is not really a light one (though this is said in the manual - but this is 40 Years old...) and wants stiff cartridges.
that did a lot to the sound, but i think it is not worth the effort. The arm i had there was really good, but the tt itself is just an old piece of furniture... nice to look at if you like it but a RegaP2 may sound better...(if tweaked like i ded ;] )
Cheers
Christian.
it is definitely a C.E.C. turntable. I wned a BD-6000, which is top of the line product from 1975. I did few modifications, but do not have many pictures to post.
you may see it on my website . But here i will tell you shortly:
I threw out all the mechanics. I oiled the motor. I put self-adhesive bitumen (tar?) sheets inside the platter and underneath the plinth. I put new rubber foam into the springs (dampening). Since the BD-6000 is a quadrophony tt, i cut off the internal tonearm wiring and soldered it to RCA jacks. Of course, i bought a new belt.
Please note that the arm is not really a light one (though this is said in the manual - but this is 40 Years old...) and wants stiff cartridges.
that did a lot to the sound, but i think it is not worth the effort. The arm i had there was really good, but the tt itself is just an old piece of furniture... nice to look at if you like it but a RegaP2 may sound better...(if tweaked like i ded ;] )
Cheers
Christian.
HEYYY!!, I got one of dose only mine is called the APAN a generic OZ model from the mid 70's sold by a number of local hi-fi shops I picked mine up for fifteen OZ bucks and plan to do the same as you guys as the bearing is quite good only the arm is a bit dicey on the mounting to the top plate,[ sloppy& moving all over the place] but I plan on changing it to a audio technica at 1005 arm I have lying around
is it worth it THE effort I Mean to stuff around with? DUNNO, looks as it has to go on the backburner till I get back from europe in early august along with a number of other projects I have simmering; ie; jlh se ss amp and a pair of 3 way TL's
dunno when I will get around to all of this as I am getting the house painted and done up for sale afterI get back... between aug and dec if it all goes to plan then we'll see as I definitely need a decent tt having just sold my techics sp10 mk 2 on ebay cheers to all TC
is it worth it THE effort I Mean to stuff around with? DUNNO, looks as it has to go on the backburner till I get back from europe in early august along with a number of other projects I have simmering; ie; jlh se ss amp and a pair of 3 way TL's dunno when I will get around to all of this as I am getting the house painted and done up for sale afterI get back... between aug and dec if it all goes to plan then we'll see as I definitely need a decent tt having just sold my techics sp10 mk 2 on ebay cheers to all TC 
regarding the original post :
I have rebuilt several, the best had a new seperate subchassis,
and relatively difficult mods to the arm.
Are we talking tweaking or a major rebuild ?
Avoid major work on the plinth unless you are ditching the
suspension, which is generally not a good idea.
I'll post details when you indicate how you want go.
sreten.
I have rebuilt several, the best had a new seperate subchassis,
and relatively difficult mods to the arm.
Are we talking tweaking or a major rebuild ?
Avoid major work on the plinth unless you are ditching the
suspension, which is generally not a good idea.
I'll post details when you indicate how you want go.
sreten.Go to a wallack's., Omer Deser's or Wolfitt's arts store in Canada, and pick up a Liter of Tri-Art brand "MICACOUS IRON OXIDE. It is am incredibly massive and decent damping material. It has all the ingredents a god damping compund should have.
Clean the inside or underside of the platter with a scotchbright pad.
Then, level off the platter with levels and with the bottom side up. Seal off oll the holes in the inner area of the platter where the belt goes.
Pour the Micacous Iron Oxide (pre thinned with a bit of water so it flows better..it's an acrylic resin base) and then make sure it is level and flat, and fills that inner area. Let it dry for a few days before moving it.
There.... one damped platter, hopefully evenly damped as far as weight distribtion goes.
Clean the inside or underside of the platter with a scotchbright pad.
Then, level off the platter with levels and with the bottom side up. Seal off oll the holes in the inner area of the platter where the belt goes.
Pour the Micacous Iron Oxide (pre thinned with a bit of water so it flows better..it's an acrylic resin base) and then make sure it is level and flat, and fills that inner area. Let it dry for a few days before moving it.
There.... one damped platter, hopefully evenly damped as far as weight distribtion goes.
sreten said:regarding the original post :
I have rebuilt several, the best had a new seperate subchassis,
and relatively difficult mods to the arm.
Are we talking tweaking or a major rebuild ?
Avoid major work on the plinth unless you are ditching the
suspension, which is generally not a good idea.
I'll post details when you indicate how you want go.
I'm talking about tweaking the TT, I,ve made a new plinth because the original one was damaged and ugly. A thicker bottomplate is supposed to give more stability. And i read that when you make holes like i've done now, it should give even more stability. Is this true?
The chassis and subchassis are already damped. Cables are new as well.
Oh, and Canada is a bit to far for me, think i'll look around in holland for that kind of material.
But thanks for the tip anyway.
Jerry T. said:
I'm talking about tweaking the TT, I,ve made a new plinth because the original one was damaged and ugly. A thicker bottomplate is supposed to give more stability. And i read that when you make holes like i've done now, it should give even more stability. Is this true?
The chassis and subchassis are already damped. Cables are new as well.
Oh, and Canada is a bit to far for me, think i'll look around in holland for that kind of material.
But thanks for the tip anyway.
My post was an answer to the original post, just shows how
easily it is to quickly confuse things if you jump in sideways.
Regarding your post :
I've never rebuilt a TD160 but something similar.
Your plinth looks fine, does it support the top plate rigidly all
around its edge ? I can't comment on the holes alleged
"stability" effect, but it will sound better with them.
I also think KBK's post is for the original post, not yours.
Suggest you repost as a new post.
Thanks for all the great help regarding the mods, as you may have seen the original thread is old but since then I worked alot on this turntable... and finaly noticed I had rebuilt it all....
the only original thing left is the cover, and the little logos.
Still it was a fun experience, and unlike diy-ing a TT from scratch, here I had the chance to listen to all the mods as everything was done gradually
I'll eventualy post pics and descriptions...
but since then I worked alot on this turntable... and finaly noticed I had rebuilt it all....the only original thing left is the cover, and the little logos.
Still it was a fun experience, and unlike diy-ing a TT from scratch, here I had the chance to listen to all the mods as everything was done gradually
I'll eventualy post pics and descriptions...
Hi there, I have an old CEC BD2000 that plays great. I realzied there are some vibration on the panel board. At louder volume, I can hear rumble from the speakers. is it due to a bad motor?
Is it possible to replace the motor with more modern options?
Overall the player plays great. I use the Shure M97xE needle.
Is it possible to replace the motor with more modern options?
Overall the player plays great. I use the Shure M97xE needle.
yup exact same TT as a Sansui SR212, i had one a loooong time ago that i inherited from my father. i still have bits of it in my attic. keep an eye on the oil for the motor, there should be a small plastic cotton filled tube that needs lubed now and again.
as for mods i tried a few but never could get the thing to sound right.
Hi All, I have added some Teflon impregnated oil to the 'bushings' and the tube. The vibration completely disappeared! Now I can play it really loud, and music has a lot more details. My aim is to replace the AC motor with a modern DC motor. That will be the next step.
I have also added the same Teflon oil to the spindle. Everything sounds right almost immediately!
I have also added the same Teflon oil to the spindle. Everything sounds right almost immediately!
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.