Yes. An old version can be seen here :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ng-new-ess-vout-dac-es9022-2.html#post2458191
I have a slightly revised version but have not built a new one yet.
Schematics is based on datasheet. There is not a lot you are change.
The analog stage is inside the chip, but it sounds very very good despite its intended low-cost useage.
Sort of like the TDA1543.
Patrick
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ng-new-ess-vout-dac-es9022-2.html#post2458191
I have a slightly revised version but have not built a new one yet.
Schematics is based on datasheet. There is not a lot you are change.
The analog stage is inside the chip, but it sounds very very good despite its intended low-cost useage.
Sort of like the TDA1543.
Patrick
Ricardo, this is nice as well but i really prefer a well made PCB. For the Opus Magnum i use G200 high temperature material from Isola. There is even better stuff from Rogers that goes into the GHz range but soldering can be a problem. It contains ceramics. Teflon boards are nearly impossible to stuff when you do not have professional tools and lots of experience. I can not hear a degration in sound when i go to PCB and when i am usually able to tune the circuit back to what i like.. For prototyping i went away from "dead bug" to Veroboard because it is much easier to debug and also because i get some hints how the PCB layout will be.
Difool, i simply buy from Reichelt, the cheapest phenolic paper is OK. They also have HF material but i did not try that.
Patrick, thanks.
Difool, i simply buy from Reichelt, the cheapest phenolic paper is OK. They also have HF material but i did not try that.
Patrick, thanks.
multipcb is good. tried jackaltac and they are ok as welll.
Honestly, if I have the time to layout a PCB I prefer it any time over hand-soldering.... check attached picture for the underside of my starless build... it probably took me longer to handsolder than to layout a proper PCB.
What finish do you order for your PCBs? I prefer galvanic gold, but preferences may differ....
Honestly, if I have the time to layout a PCB I prefer it any time over hand-soldering.... check attached picture for the underside of my starless build... it probably took me longer to handsolder than to layout a proper PCB.
What finish do you order for your PCBs? I prefer galvanic gold, but preferences may differ....
Attachments
Yeh, thats a labor of love, for one that killed his parents, as we say here.
I usually order black material with yellow letters, galvanic gold, vias, G200.
Here is my latest build. I can not make it work although i already debugged it many times.
I was so angry that i destroyed the first input stage until in found out that i fitted LM337
current sources instead of LM317 ? Still it does not work although i measured each and every part. That rarely happens, but it happens.
I usually order black material with yellow letters, galvanic gold, vias, G200.
Here is my latest build. I can not make it work although i already debugged it many times.
I was so angry that i destroyed the first input stage until in found out that i fitted LM337
current sources instead of LM317 ? Still it does not work although i measured each and every part. That rarely happens, but it happens.
Attachments
This was the problem : a burned resistor in the pre regulator in an external box. Instead of 10 Ohm it had 850 Ohm. That was the reason i could measure the correct plus - minus 12 V after the regulator when the circuit was not connected. With the circuit the plus voltage went down to less the 2V. I thought the circuit is faulty ! This was a real classic that cost me several days to figure out.
Attachments
I know about basic problems also... such as pin-out in TO92....I also hate the fact that there's no possible way of getting working LT-circuits imported into my eagle...and this manual transfer sometimes results in funny things...
)
Whats the sound...i believe it's the n-channel starless...???
)Whats the sound...i believe it's the n-channel starless...???
