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Old 9th February 2012, 08:38 PM   #5291
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I checked my meter with reference caps and is measures slightly high but under 1% in all cases. It is amazing that such a cheep meter is so good.
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Old 9th February 2012, 08:55 PM   #5292
hesener is offline hesener  Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joachim Gerhard View Post
This is how it looks....
how was the soldering? enough space, good connections? this is my "special" footprint so i would like to know if it works.....
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Old 9th February 2012, 09:01 PM   #5293
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The caps solder easy. I put a small "point" of solder on one pad, then i place the SMD cap and push it down where it should be. Then i heat the "point" or call it "spot". The cap is notw fixed to one side, although only in a little space. Then i solder the other side and then i finish the side where the "spot" fixing is. I make sure that the solder joints look shiny and give a "minimal" surface that looks like the roof of the Olympia stadium in Munich.
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Old 9th February 2012, 09:11 PM   #5294
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Here are two macros.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SMD close 1.jpg (87.3 KB, 266 views)
File Type: jpg SMD close 2.jpg (114.3 KB, 266 views)
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Old 10th February 2012, 06:02 PM   #5295
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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Just completed all connections and fired the rig.

Right Channel:

Shunt outputs are
+24V (I can adjust it with the trimmer)
-35.7V (I can NOT adjust it)

Input offset -2.5mV to -1.9mV oscilating (When I switch off, this offset starts rising until it reaches 30mV and than goes down)

Output offset Wild oscilation between +12 and -10V

On switch on, opamp leds light imediately... after a while the negative shunt leds light up and 5 seconds latter finally the positive shunt leds light

Left channel:

Shunt outputs are
+21.4V (I can not adjust it and the leds are very dim)
-24V (I can adjust this value with the trimmer)

Input offset: 9.6V steady
Output offset: 12.75V steady

Leds on the opamp flicker.

This is going to be harder than I was hopin for
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Old 10th February 2012, 06:31 PM   #5296
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That is what i told. Speed is not helping here. I am sorry.
On the other hand it proved to work and you will find out. I would start with the PSU.
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Old 11th February 2012, 12:59 AM   #5297
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Ricardo,

It's one of the diy-mysteries, why 90% of the non-working builds are regulators. From these faulty regulators, 90% are shunts...

I hope you did not connect the regs to the rest yet. Work patiently, it will be worth it. We are with you! Now have a drink or two...

Rüdiger
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Old 11th February 2012, 03:37 AM   #5298
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Yes, the -35,7V can destroy parts of the circuit and it will of cause screw up the servo badly.
On the other hand modern parts are very robust so i assume they survived.
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Old 11th February 2012, 07:46 AM   #5299
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Some more stuffing has being going on .....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Paradise stuffing 1.jpg (102.1 KB, 192 views)
File Type: jpg Paradise stuffing 2.jpg (90.6 KB, 185 views)
File Type: jpg Paradise stuffing 3.jpg (113.2 KB, 185 views)
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Old 11th February 2012, 10:35 AM   #5300
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Salas published a simple way to measure Hfe and Ft in BJT´s.
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File Type: gif MILSPEC_Ft and Hfe BJT Salas.gif (16.8 KB, 156 views)
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