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Old 25th March 2010, 04:34 AM   #51
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Something you might also want to look at is the 20/44 litz wire (20 strands of 44 gauge which comes to just about 31 gauge) from 1n34a.com.

12 cents a foot.

se
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Old 25th March 2010, 01:16 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binspaul View Post
Hello Tony,

How many twisted/inch have you used ? Is there any standard for this ?

Best regards,
Bins.
Hi Bins
I didn't count but I can show you the size of the tool that can help the job, in the picture tip 1" first holds 2" second holds 5" between 7", card broad is fine will not hurt coating, fingers hold wire to broad and pull slightly and turn, then tip point move to the last cross and turn, this will good for 28 to 30 awg solid silver, if the cable begin to tangle after a while that mean it twist too much too tie will break off, need longer tip
tony
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Old 25th March 2010, 01:24 PM   #53
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Hello Tony,

Great illustration. Thanks a lot.

Bins.
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Old 27th March 2010, 08:39 PM   #54
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Hello Tony,

Great illustration. Thanks a lot.

Bins.
Hi Bins
sorry I did a mistake acturail size that is CM not inch
tony ma
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Old 29th March 2010, 04:28 AM   #55
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Hello Tony,

Thanks. The process of removing the insulation from the 32 AWG wire is really a tough task.

Best regards,
Bins.
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Old 29th March 2010, 02:35 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binspaul View Post
Hello Tony,

Thanks. The process of removing the insulation from the 32 AWG wire is really a tough task.

Best regards,
Bins.
Hi Bins
keep going more effort you pay more return you will have don't forget post the result after all, one more tips for hanging and coating, I use two small boards(PC board) drill hole in center, one hole with hook for hanging up the other hole for add weight in the bottom,solder two wires to the board side by side against the center hole, you can coat two wires at the same time. after dry through use multi meter to check the isolation of the whole lengh
tony ma
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Old 29th March 2010, 03:02 PM   #57
ecir38 is offline ecir38  United States
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I experimented with a trick I came up with last week with good results.

Found and old pair of worn out wire cutters that would not cut the small gauge wire. Cable used was from a old mouse. Used a torch with mapp gas to heat the cutters for about 10 seconds YMMV. Used cutters to scorch insulation at length of cut then removed insulation for a perfect strip .

Brad
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Old 5th April 2010, 09:20 AM   #58
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Hello Tony,

Completed the work of coating the wires with the PU. It was a real test of patience.... Now, waiting for the coating to dry out completely so that I can make the twists.

Best regards,
Bins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by makaiyumtony View Post
Hi Bins
keep going more effort you pay more return you will have don't forget post the result after all, one more tips for hanging and coating, I use two small boards(PC board) drill hole in center, one hole with hook for hanging up the other hole for add weight in the bottom,solder two wires to the board side by side against the center hole, you can coat two wires at the same time. after dry through use multi meter to check the isolation of the whole lengh
tony ma
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Old 5th April 2010, 01:32 PM   #59
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Hello Tony,

Completed the work of coating the wires with the PU. It was a real test of patience.... Now, waiting for the coating to dry out completely so that I can make the twists.

Best regards,
Bins.
Hi Bins
after the tonearm cable project you can go for the belt too, it also will give you a big surprise too, try more different material to meet your system, because every system react different, in my case a very thin elastic threat is the best, little force can stretch a lot is good for my old direct drive tt as the driving motor and pulley, still tonearm cable is more direct to the up-grad, after this done can catch the different sound of the different belts more easy later
regard tony ma
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Old 6th April 2010, 04:02 AM   #60
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Hello Tony,

I am using Kevlar thread of 0.5 mm diameter as my turntable belt.

Best regards,
Bins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by makaiyumtony View Post
Hi Bins
after the tonearm cable project you can go for the belt too, it also will give you a big surprise too, try more different material to meet your system, because every system react different, in my case a very thin elastic threat is the best, little force can stretch a lot is good for my old direct drive tt as the driving motor and pulley, still tonearm cable is more direct to the up-grad, after this done can catch the different sound of the different belts more easy later
regard tony ma
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