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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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I now understand why we are shifting the cartridge to the rear by 10 mm.
My question now is from what reference point do I measure said 10 mm?
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Your spindle to pivot is a fixed distance, assuming it's 211mm, then your overhang will be 17mm. 211 + 17 = 228mm. Make sense? Make sure you have some kind of protractor or alignment tool to do this.
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
![]() P.S. Is there a certain model which is better suited to dummies like me? |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
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seems like a good way to go, as per usual P10. But I'd use a new headshell, just to keep the original arm/headshell intact.
__________________
stew ☮ -"watch out where the Huskies go and don't you eat that yellow snow"--Nanook died of starvation 8 mos after the movie was made |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
I'm thinking of using the stock one from my old Pioneer PL-630 to customize. P.S. Does anyone have a cartridge alignment tool they are willing to part with? |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
Well I now have a protractor and have set up the table using the stevenson math and it sounds great! I was able to slide the cartridge far enough back under the head shell to make it work. Thanks again for everyones help! Bill.
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