diyAudio (
-   Analogue Source (
-   -   TEchnics SP10 MK II Turntable (

diyman 10th December 2001 03:49 AM

I am looking for an article published in one of the British Hifi magazines a few years ago providing instructions how to move the whole speed control electronics out of the SP10's chassis to a separate box. I was given to understand that this greatly improves the sound by removing the "electronics glare" produced by the speed regulation circuitry. Anyone out there with a soft or hard copy?

alaskanaudio 10th December 2001 05:25 AM

Electronic glare?
I have been usind a SP10 II and have a EMT air bearing tone arm with a low output moving coil cartridege mounted.

Having repaired this turntable in the past I cannot see how electronic glare is possible with the massive isolation the frame and metal cover of the SP10 provides. I can see the potential of mechnical noise but not electronic noise if things are grounded properly.

Once the turntable is up to speed there is hardly any current required to keep the platter spinning at the right speed. Therefore the high current drive electronics are almost in idle mode when things are working properly.

I would never considering moving the drive electronics out from underneath the massive chassie. It would not gain you anything. The power supply is already remote so why mess with a good thing.

John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio

[Edited by alaskanaudio on 12-09-2001 at 11:27 PM]

diyman 10th December 2001 07:18 AM

Thanks John,

By the way, I'm considering to fit the Eminent Technology Air Bearing Arm on the SP10 but the arm mounting board is at a wrong location. BTW, I use the original Technics stone base. How did you manage to mount the arm?

alaskanaudio 10th December 2001 08:05 AM


When I got my SP10 it did not come with a base so I ended up making one from laminated 3/4-inch thick solid oak. Layers were glued on top of each other to form a stack that is about 1/2 inch taller than the SP10 Base. The size of the base was made large enough to mount any arm and have the counterweights not overhang. My base quite solid but could be improved more at some point in time.

I have not seen the stone base. If you get to the point were you want to mount the EMT I could send you some fairly close measurements and perhaps some pictures of how I mounted the arm in relation to the turntable. This would be a good starting point to work from.

One of the most important thing is that everything must be absolutely level. Air bearing tone arms are much more critical in this regard. If you put the stylus/arm down on a a perfectly smooth mirror the EMT arm should not move. If the turntable is not level front to rear the arm will scoot right off the mirror with great haste. Both the air bearing arm and turntable surface must thus be and always remain perfectly level. This is the hardest thing to do.

Special care is also required with the lead wires coming out of the rear. These have a tendency to pick up power line hum and noise from any electrical wires in the wall that the turntable may be against. In my location it was required to cover part of the wall with grounded aluminum foil to stop solve this problem. This is something to watch out for when setting any equipment next to a wall that contains power wiring.

My EMT arm came with quite a number of burrs on the carbon fiber parts. These burrs all had to be removed before assembly to insure rigidity of the assembled unit. I was surprised that this was not done at the plant. These burrs will also form when the self threading screws are screwed into these parts. This may or may not be a problem for you.

John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio

[Edited by alaskanaudio on 12-10-2001 at 02:11 AM]

tvi 10th December 2001 11:37 AM

If you are feeling brave there was a Kaneda PSU published in MJ in the early 90s, I recently found it on the web, see below <center>
<a href=""><img src=""></a></center>

The same site has lots of Kaneda projects, most redesigned to be more stable I think, but its a little hard to nav. being in Japanese.
<a href=""><b>~konton</b></a>


GRollins 10th December 2001 04:26 PM

That's nearly as tangled as some of my prototypes...


diyman 10th December 2001 05:36 PM

John, Thanks for the tip. If you want to know how the original Technics stone base looks like, you can see a picture of it at:-

I would appreciate some pictures of your set up if you don't mind!
With regards to the MJ article, the photos look very interesting and I heard that it runs the T/T from batteries. From my past experience with T/Ts, running them from batteries improves the background noise significantly(I kid you not!). Anyone know of any program that translates this strange Japanese language to English? I have absolute no idea where to start!


alaskanaudio 11th December 2001 05:03 AM


I will take some pictures and post them on my web site for you sometime in the next week. I will let you know when they are ready.

John Fassotte
Alaskan Audio

tvi 11th December 2001 05:33 PM

The only online translators for Japanese to English I know of are <a href="">Babelfish</a> and <a href="">InterTran</a>.

Took me a while to realise that things like; Profit Stadium = Gain Stage

Still don't know why Babelfish says the <a href="">Technics EPC-U1200 Cartridge </a> includes a "<i>Needle hippopotamus</i>" :)


GRollins 11th December 2001 11:00 PM

A "large stylus" perhaps?


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:22 AM.

Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 18.75%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2017 diyAudio