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#591 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Last edited by merlin el mago; 5th February 2012 at 09:56 AM. |
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#592 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
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#593 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
GB for Salas SSHV2 regulatorAlso you can buy transistors mini-kits & resistors mini-kits. Last edited by merlin el mago; 5th February 2012 at 06:05 PM. |
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#594 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin, TX
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OK, I went back to the drawing board. I redid both boards as single-sided and left the SSHV portion up to the people who know better than me. What's left is 2 boards that make up the Valve Itch power supply, AC and DC.
I've ordered some SSHV v2 boards to go with these. That's definitely the smart way to go since the SSHV v2 board looks so good. The T connections are from the transformer and the U connections are the umbilical cord between these two boards. The SSHV+/- connections correspond to the Raw DC inputs of the SSHV board. The GND connections are where I will ground to the chassis. The rest should be self explanatory. So, is this pair of boards any better than my last attempt? |
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#595 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Your LM317T sinks are not big enough. You gonna need 3.8C/W at least.
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#596 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ireland
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Yes, the 317s get pretty hot - in fact best to allow for generous heat sinking on all the ICs.
Are you going to draw up a set of boards for the phono stage itself? Fran
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Visit www.tirnahifi.org!! |
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#597 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Quote:
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#598 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Plus they are doomed to fail somewhere under tubes in the long run, just ask any ARC long time owner, and if you design in some buzz, dead easy to have in a phono if not very experienced, it takes iterations. Heater lines are a joke on a PCB also.
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#599 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Austin, TX
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I'm having trouble deciding on a heatsink for Q3 on the SSHV2 board. Since B+ is 300V, does that mean that there will be little excess current that needs to be dissipated by the Q3 heatsink, and therefore a very large outboard heatsink isn't required? What heatsink would you use for this application?
Last edited by RevMen; 20th February 2012 at 07:23 PM. |
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#600 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Use 2C/W sink.
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