These are the relays I bought, 5 volt version;
EA2-5NU - NEC - Signal Relay, EA2 Series, Non Latching, DPDT, Through Hole, 1 A, 5 VDC | Farnell element14
Note, as per Salas diagram 2 relays used.
Relays bridged between pins 3 & 8.
EA2-5NU - NEC - Signal Relay, EA2 Series, Non Latching, DPDT, Through Hole, 1 A, 5 VDC | Farnell element14
Note, as per Salas diagram 2 relays used.
Relays bridged between pins 3 & 8.
I went back to #2260 and read the diagram again for possible channel routing errors but it seems correct for keeping L or R inputs on the same sides of the relays. Its showing the relays from bottom view. Check the pins order with that in mind. If its something I don't see or a mix up happened in the wiring its very easy to follow the diagram with a DMM's continuity buzzer. Disconnect the TTs and buzz away the signal routes from input RCAs to the Itch channels when test switching. A swap between relays outputs and their Itch input channels connections fixes that anyway.
Better use coax for each input and output run, not single wires. Connect the shields to a common place on the little board. Maybe the swap has something to do with the hum also.
About the RIAA resistors, first I changed the Linn K9 cartridge load: in place of only 47K now I added 100pF and now sounds OK with 47K + 100pF, next time I will try with more or less than 100pF.
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PCB from my spare time. 😀
Any suggestion? Should I use a ground plane on the top side of PCB?
Any suggestion? Should I use a ground plane on the top side of PCB?
PCB from my spare time. 😀
Any suggestion? Should I use a ground plane on the top side of PCB?
Solid ground plane is very good when used as the only ground. Because the ground return paths try follow the send power and send signal traces on the other side as the frequency gets higher, there should be a proper visualization of those paths so they won't mix. I.e. if not a complete study better not do it.
![WP_20160503_001[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/496/496960-3aa7f0a33957330c42cd8c4618a52de1.jpg?hash=OqfwozlXMw)
![WP_20160503_002[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/496/496982-d8abb08fe1fe03b8bc000dae496b4d84.jpg?hash=2Kuwj-H-A7)
Hi,
The E283CC is a very nice valve, pro ECC83 with a different pinout and 6.3 heater voltage IIRC.
The RSD can be just about anything, they're a trader's brand that bought stuff almost anywhere but mainly Eastern Europe and East-Germany.
Cheers,😉
The E283CC is a very nice valve, pro ECC83 with a different pinout and 6.3 heater voltage IIRC.
The RSD can be just about anything, they're a trader's brand that bought stuff almost anywhere but mainly Eastern Europe and East-Germany.
Cheers,😉
Hi,
If they are NOS unused they should still be fine. The E283cc being one of the latest Philips developments.
You don't have a friend around who has a valve tester ?
Cheers, 😉
If they are NOS unused they should still be fine. The E283cc being one of the latest Philips developments.
You don't have a friend around who has a valve tester ?
Cheers, 😉
Not very productive just to check two good E283s. I am not sure they will be as quiet for microphonic noises either. On the other hand its just a rewiring if you are too curious about that Siemens pair you got. There is just little difference to 6N2PEV like the pin count for sides is swapped or something like that? Maybe no rewiring? Check closely.
I used my ohmmeter to check all of the tubes for two pins filaments with a few ohms resistance between them, as would be expected in a filament. In one tube, there was no resistance between any two pins, only open circuits. That suggested this was the faulty tube.
