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Old 24th February 2009, 10:04 PM   #1
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Default Calling all Rek-O-Kut Experts ! ! !

So I'm trying to play my 78s on my Rek-O-Kut and the tonearm wire has finally gotten past the "It'll work if you wiggle it" stage.

People on the web say that arm wire replacement is "easy". I should probably not comment on people who always say "it's easy".

What's stumped me is how to get to the headshell connector in the arm tube. I suppose that there must be some set screw or stake or something that holds it in place but whatever it is, it's also holding the headshell keeper collar in place, and I can't expose whatever is there under the collar.

Does anyone have any experience here?


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Old 25th February 2009, 02:14 PM   #2
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I'm in the same boat as Bamalama - I've got a Rek-O-Kut arm needing re-wiring and can't figure out how to get the contact plug out of the end of the arm where the head connects.

I'd appreciate suggestions or links.

- Ray
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Old 4th March 2009, 02:24 PM   #3
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Isn't there any small screw on the under side of the tube close to the collar?
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Old 4th March 2009, 02:43 PM   #4
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I would have expected there to be, but the collar is held captive so I can't get to it. I tried "unscrewing" the collar past it, but whatever's in there doesn't want to let go.
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Old 11th June 2013, 02:47 AM   #5
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Default Rek-O-Kut Tonearm Rewire

I see this thread is almost dead. All the questions on arm rewiring have been answered in other forums. Hah! The only problem is they make little sense and there are no pictures. Some people say the pushed the plastic? fiber? whatever disc, that has the connector pins out the front by busing a wire up the back. Others say they heated the tube and pushed out the whole front part out from the back. The only thing wrong is that the descriptions of just what they pushed out vary too much, never a picture.

From what I can see, I think there is an isulation disc with connector pins in it. It is part of a smaller tube, that has the collar lock. That smaller tube seems press fit into the end of the tonearm. So, the solutions I have seen, do not describe in enough detail just what they removed. It was either the whole connector end, or just the isulation disc.

I can tell you that I jammed a coat hanger wire into the back end and pushed with all my might and could not get anything to move. I retried it a few times after heating the connector end. I gave up. I might have tried heating it more, but the other blogs described it as "plastic". So, has anybody had any luck? Any photos?
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Old 6th January 2014, 03:12 PM   #6
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Same problem and still no solution....
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Old 8th January 2014, 04:01 PM   #7
bgruhn is offline bgruhn  United States
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Originally Posted by Luckytiger View Post
Same problem and still no solution....
Here is a long shot. Could it be threaded in but with an opposite handed thread, left hand rather than right hand. Occasionally you see LH threads in automotive applications Also, stuck threads sometimes need to be tightened a bit to break them free after which they come out normally. Another possibility is that there is some corrosion "welding" the part in there. Soaking in some penetrating oil may help. Good luck, sorry I have so little to offer.


Last edited by bgruhn; 8th January 2014 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 8th January 2014, 09:30 PM   #8
gvasale is offline gvasale  United States
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Looks like this site will accept pictures.
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Old 11th January 2014, 04:18 PM   #9
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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I guess pictures would really help us to understand the issue.
"To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead." - Thomas Paine
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Old 12th January 2014, 07:17 PM   #10
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Since my Rek-O-Kut has a Grado arm, I can offer nothing but sympathy.
Please do post photos if you have them.
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