DIY Schroeder Tonearm??? - Page 27

binspaul · 2nd November 2009, 07:17 AM

Hi JD,

Nice work, keep posting...

I am still having some issues with the anti-skating wheel. How is it mounted to the top plate ? Is it press fit ? Are you using some rubber/foam layer in between ?

Best regards,
Bins.

Jeffrey Davison · 07:52 AM

It's what they call in engineering terms a "sliding fit", the thumbwheels shaft diameter is a couple of thou smaller diameter than the hole.
Remember, it has to have free rotation to be adjustable. But the tolerences still have to be fairly tight, otherwise you can get a missalignment from the thumbwheel on top and the center of the magnet housing on the bottom plate, and that's asking for an arm that wont work correctly. Also I use just a dab of anti-sieze in the hole around the shaft. Brass and Aluminum get a bit too friendly after a while, this thing called electrolicic reaction, don't ya know.
JD

Quote:

Originally Posted by binspaul

Hi JD,

Nice work, keep posting...

I am still having some issues with the anti-skating wheel. How is it mounted to the top plate ? Is it press fit ? Are you using some rubber/foam layer in between ?

Best regards,
Bins.

binspaul · 2nd November 2009, 10:40 AM

@Frank: What is the purpose of that extra wheel found on the counter weight of the reference arm ? How does that function ?

@JD: Your suggestion on the anti skating wheel really helped in clearing the doubts that I had in my mind. Can we use wood instead of aluminium for the top and bottom plates (Just a thought) ? Please comment...

Best regards,
Bins.

nicoch58 · 2nd November 2009, 11:00 AM

Wow look so nice

scure sound too.....

berlinta · 2nd November 2009, 10:30 PM

Hi Bins,
The knurled wheel/screw can be added to all my arms, ot just the Reference model. It allows(you screw it in or out...) for ever so slightly changing VTF without the risk of altering azimuth when attempting to slide the main counterweight forward or backwards by a tiny amount.
One full turn alters VTF by ~ 0,03gr.

Best,

Frank

binspaul · 3rd November 2009, 03:54 AM

Hello Frank,

1. Can we use wood/acrylic for making the top and bottom parts as they are easier to work with than aluminium ?
2. Where is the GROUND WIRE attached to the arm ? Is it to the main screw that is used to fix the arm to the base ?

Best regards,
Bins.

krishu · 3rd November 2009, 08:34 AM

Hi,

as there is no electrical connection between arm tube and tonearm base (unless you use carbon thread

) you must connect ground wire to the arm tube

Christian.

binspaul · 3rd November 2009, 09:54 AM

Hello Christian,

Nice to see you back on this thread. Ok, I agreed to your suggestion of connecting the GROUND WIRE to the arm tube. But, where ? Which point will be the best ?

Best regards,
Bins.

zeonrider · 3rd November 2009, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by binspaul

Hello Frank,

2. Where is the GROUND WIRE attached to the arm ? Is it to the main screw that is used to fix the arm to the base ?

Best regards,
Bins.

Maybe on thin metal plate above head.

Regards zeoN_Rider

krishu · 3rd November 2009, 10:28 AM

IMHO the ground wire should be connected to the arm tube as close as possible to the tonarm bearing, i. e. not at the headshell. But that might work as well.

Christian.

3rd November 2009, 08:34 AM	#267
krishu diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: .	Hi, as there is no electrical connection between arm tube and tonearm base (unless you use carbon thread ) you must connect ground wire to the arm tube Christian. __________________ Visit my DIY page at www.krishu.de

3rd November 2009, 10:28 AM	#270
krishu diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: .	IMHO the ground wire should be connected to the arm tube as close as possible to the tonarm bearing, i. e. not at the headshell. But that might work as well. Christian. __________________ Visit my DIY page at www.krishu.de

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2nd November 2009, 07:17 AM	#261
binspaul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cochin, Kerala, India	Hi JD, Nice work, keep posting... I am still having some issues with the anti-skating wheel. How is it mounted to the top plate ? Is it press fit ? Are you using some rubber/foam layer in between ? Best regards, Bins.

2nd November 2009, 10:40 AM	#263
binspaul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cochin, Kerala, India	@Frank: What is the purpose of that extra wheel found on the counter weight of the reference arm ? How does that function ? @JD: Your suggestion on the anti skating wheel really helped in clearing the doubts that I had in my mind. Can we use wood instead of aluminium for the top and bottom plates (Just a thought) ? Please comment... Best regards, Bins.

2nd November 2009, 11:00 AM	#264
nicoch58 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	Wow look so nice scure sound too.....

2nd November 2009, 10:30 PM	#265
berlinta diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Berlin Germany	Hi Bins, The knurled wheel/screw can be added to all my arms, ot just the Reference model. It allows(you screw it in or out...) for ever so slightly changing VTF without the risk of altering azimuth when attempting to slide the main counterweight forward or backwards by a tiny amount. One full turn alters VTF by ~ 0,03gr. Best, Frank

3rd November 2009, 03:54 AM	#266
binspaul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cochin, Kerala, India	Hello Frank, 1. Can we use wood/acrylic for making the top and bottom parts as they are easier to work with than aluminium ? 2. Where is the GROUND WIRE attached to the arm ? Is it to the main screw that is used to fix the arm to the base ? Best regards, Bins.

3rd November 2009, 09:54 AM	#268
binspaul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cochin, Kerala, India	Hello Christian, Nice to see you back on this thread. Ok, I agreed to your suggestion of connecting the GROUND WIRE to the arm tube. But, where ? Which point will be the best ? Best regards, Bins.

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