DIY Schroeder Tonearm???

[MJSM]

Thanks Paul,

How is your 301 (or was it a 401) going these days ??

I recently bought one of these off Ebay so another arm is probably on the cards ....... of course I know that I could in theory put any arm with this one since it does'nt have the same constraints viz-a-viz the platter height but truth to tell, I've caught the contructors bug

Any thoughts on making your own arm Paul ???

Mike

[livemusic]

Very nice work indeed, congrats Mike!
I like the idea to make a wooden arm from pieces, to solve the wire channel problem. Another point I was always curious about, is a connection between wooden part and metal tube-like rear piece. Did you managed to make firm contact, independing of humidity variations, with no glue? Can you elaborate?
Rgs,
Michael

[Paul Dimaline]

The 401 is still going strong but is in need of some TLC. We are about to move into our own house after years of renting and there is a brick outbuilding that would make a very nice workshop so a small lathe and milling machine is on the cards. How accurate do you find the Unimat?

I have a RB300 armtube from a damaged arm that I intend playing with someday....new bearing housing with wide spaced bearings, nothing trivial!!

The 401 is in need of cosmetic work mainly, when we have moved I will strip it down and start work. I have a DIY table and a Technics SL150 to tide me over.....collecting TT's is rather addictive isn't it!!

Paul.

[MJSM]

Originally posted by livemusic
Very nice work indeed, congrats Mike!
I like the idea to make a wooden arm from pieces, to solve the wire channel problem. Another point I was always curious about, is a connection between wooden part and metal tube-like rear piece. Did you managed to make firm contact, independing of humidity variations, with no glue? Can you elaborate?
Rgs,
Michael

Thanks Michael,

Yes, The four part arm wand is a good solution, I was very grateful to the kind gentleman who donated it to me.

The sleeve at the back of the arm was oddly the most trouble to machine as I had to turn it down from a piece that was over 25mm in diameter originally, the hole through the 'middle' was done on another lathe prior to machining, unfortunately just off-centre so it is not quite the same thickness all round (but not so much that you would notice).

Having said all that, I had it drilled out to the same diameter as the wooden end of the arm so that I could have an 'interference' fit (after some light sanding on the wood), it was already quite tight to get it over the wood but I applied some locktite during assembly just to make sure it didnt move afterwards.

Cheers
Mike

[MJSM]

Originally posted by Paul Dimaline
and there is a brick outbuilding that would make a very nice workshop so a small lathe and milling machine is on the cards.

Nice one Paul, I had many a happy hour on the Unimat !!

How accurate do you find the Unimat?

Actually there is a fair amount on end-float on the cross-slide but you get used to it, I tended to do rather a lot of fine turning and lots of checking ... but you can make it work OK. Its worth keeping an eye open for an earlier version (Unimat 3) or there is also a Unimat PC (I think) that looks good too. My Unimat was made under license in Taiwan I believe and is reasonable but not terrific.

There is also a company in Chester called (oddly enough) Chester UK Ltd who distribute a large number of models. To be honest, I did'nt research the market very well when I bought the Unimat, if I had the choice now, I would probably have bought something else with cheaper accessories.

I have a RB300 armtube from a damaged arm that I intend playing with someday....new bearing housing with wide spaced bearings, nothing trivial!!

Good luck with that one, I hear good things about the RB300, who knows, we might be seeing the RB300PD (Paul Dimaline) variant someday

I have a DIY table and a Technics SL150 to tide me over.....collecting TT's is rather addictive isn't it!!

You betcha, I've already got two, with the GL88 waiting in the wings, now I just need a room to house them all

All the Best Paul

Mike

[bulgin]

Hi cv & all

I'll make you happy! It does NOT take hours and hours to drill through a neodymium magnet! I do this amost every day. If it has to be deadcentre, you need a lathe. If you are confident of marking the hole position and it has to be deadcentre, the best powertool would be either a multispeed drill fitted to a drill press or otherwise, even better, a powerful rechargeable set on its SLOWEST speed to avoid generating heat during drilling. You also need a fast evaporating drilling lubricant/cooling agent during drilling.

The last bit you need, woud be a tunsten carbide longshank 3 or 4 flute milling cutter of whatever dia your hole must be. To drill 1mm through say, 5mm neodymium, takes only about 3 minutes.

Be careful, these magnets are very brittle.

Happy drilling.

BTW, I have been eyeballing various rollerballs from deodorant bottles as arm pivots. These will obviously need stabilising ....

bulgin

[bulgin]

Hi Everyone

I've had a chance today to read the entire thread.

Firstly let me propose a 'salut!' to berlinta. I find it quite remarkable for a talented designer to offer such gracious response and useful tips to diy'ers who have ambitions to make their own tonearms. He is absolutely right, referring to patentlaw just in case an errant soul decides to copy and manufacture for profit.

Being a designer of almost any commodity for which you have hopes to earn a living from, can be one of the most solitary activities anyone can venture into. Only the most disciplined, skilled and dedicated will see such a project through to the end.
The pitfalls and especially obstructionist suppliers of outside services or components are many. Especially when it comes to vinyl replay instruments. Design and patent law(yers) is another story.

@ drilling of neodymium magnets. Yes, magnetic swarf is a problem as it gets in the way while drilling. A simple remedy is to use a blob of plasticine (kids' modelling clay) and just dab the stuf away. You can also use a 'dusting' tool fitted to an airline from a compressor, but NOT near the lathe's chuck.

bugin

[bulgin]

SSSorry

It's me, bulgin!

It is very cold and rainy here in Cape Town

bulgin

[Algar_emi]

Nice url to see very detailled pictures of the real Schroeder, just press 'Photos':

http://www.schroeder-tonarme.de/index1101381377.html

[pixpop]

Wow, great photos.

I've got to the stage where I can generally make things work. Now I need to make them beautiful as well. Very inspiring.