All,
Just got an old Thorens TD-150 Mk2 in a garage sale for the equivalent of 10 US$. Only, the TP13a 'cannonball' arm misses the TP-50 headshell and the small antiskating weight. Found a headshell on eBay, will replace the belt etc., but now it also appears that the arm lift has trouble and I'm not too sure about it's entire mechanical state, either.
I'm starting to wonder whether it makes sense to re-animate the tone arm assembly -- maybe a resonably priced SME Mk2 (if such a beast is to be found) or something similar should be preferred? Of course, restoring the turntable to an allegedly original state has it's own merits.
I don't want to spend too much on this project -- I have a TD126 Mk2 and a TD160 Mk1 in reasonable shape for listening to vinyl.
Any advice appreciated,
Jacques
Just got an old Thorens TD-150 Mk2 in a garage sale for the equivalent of 10 US$. Only, the TP13a 'cannonball' arm misses the TP-50 headshell and the small antiskating weight. Found a headshell on eBay, will replace the belt etc., but now it also appears that the arm lift has trouble and I'm not too sure about it's entire mechanical state, either.
I'm starting to wonder whether it makes sense to re-animate the tone arm assembly -- maybe a resonably priced SME Mk2 (if such a beast is to be found) or something similar should be preferred? Of course, restoring the turntable to an allegedly original state has it's own merits.
I don't want to spend too much on this project -- I have a TD126 Mk2 and a TD160 Mk1 in reasonable shape for listening to vinyl.
Any advice appreciated,
Jacques
check out ...
the analog dept .
Almost anything that can be done to a Thorens is discussed there...
stew
the analog dept .
Almost anything that can be done to a Thorens is discussed there...
stew
Hi stew,
Thank you for the reference. Yes, I knew about the analog dept. Maybe I should have phrased my question differently. It is not so much about the technical side.
There have been questions (on this forum and elsewhere) whether it pays to replace the TD13A with, for instance, a Rega RB300 (the answer seems to be no). Such advice is often helpful. As an example: about 30 years ago, being a student, I spent a lot of money on the then new SME 3009 Type III (supposed to be a lot better than the Type II) with an Ortofon MC-20 (mounted on a Thorens TD 126-II). I had trouble to admit that it did not sound as well as the plain TD 160 with a plain TP-16 of a friend; now I read that the SME type III is for cartridges with a high compliancy and that I should have used, say, a Pickering V-15, or instead of the (at that time) expensive MC-20 with an equally expensive moving coil preamplifier (Ortofon MCA-76).
In short, I was hoping for stories like "you'll need to spend xxxx and the result won't be much better than what you have now" or "for some xxx bucks of investment, you end up with a nice turntable". Maybe I'll stick with the TP13A for now, trying to put it in as good a shape as possible.
Opinions & suggestions sill welcome, of course!
Thank you for the reference. Yes, I knew about the analog dept. Maybe I should have phrased my question differently. It is not so much about the technical side.
There have been questions (on this forum and elsewhere) whether it pays to replace the TD13A with, for instance, a Rega RB300 (the answer seems to be no). Such advice is often helpful. As an example: about 30 years ago, being a student, I spent a lot of money on the then new SME 3009 Type III (supposed to be a lot better than the Type II) with an Ortofon MC-20 (mounted on a Thorens TD 126-II). I had trouble to admit that it did not sound as well as the plain TD 160 with a plain TP-16 of a friend; now I read that the SME type III is for cartridges with a high compliancy and that I should have used, say, a Pickering V-15, or instead of the (at that time) expensive MC-20 with an equally expensive moving coil preamplifier (Ortofon MCA-76).
In short, I was hoping for stories like "you'll need to spend xxxx and the result won't be much better than what you have now" or "for some xxx bucks of investment, you end up with a nice turntable". Maybe I'll stick with the TP13A for now, trying to put it in as good a shape as possible.
Opinions & suggestions sill welcome, of course!
Jacques...
I did a bit of a search over the 'net. consensus seems to be that although awkward looking, the TP13 can support a high quality MC without embarrassing itself. Not faint praise. I'd clean it up and clean the cuing device. So if you have one keep it. worst case is that you remove the lift and use it "fully" manual.
I know there are plenty that have changed the arms on these decks, but if it isn't broken why fix it?
stew
I did a bit of a search over the 'net. consensus seems to be that although awkward looking, the TP13 can support a high quality MC without embarrassing itself. Not faint praise. I'd clean it up and clean the cuing device. So if you have one keep it. worst case is that you remove the lift and use it "fully" manual.
I know there are plenty that have changed the arms on these decks, but if it isn't broken why fix it?
stew
rb300
I have a td 125mk2 and took of the tp13 and put on an rb300 and I dont think the rb300 and 125 are a good combo.... I remember selling a lin basik arm off a royce turntable i Had (Copy of a LInn with a marine ply subchassis as opposed to pressed metal) and replacing it with an rb300 and blow me down if I didnt prefer the basik.. alas I sold it to fund the rb300.
SO maybe keep the tp13
Good luck
I have a td 125mk2 and took of the tp13 and put on an rb300 and I dont think the rb300 and 125 are a good combo.... I remember selling a lin basik arm off a royce turntable i Had (Copy of a LInn with a marine ply subchassis as opposed to pressed metal) and replacing it with an rb300 and blow me down if I didnt prefer the basik.. alas I sold it to fund the rb300.
SO maybe keep the tp13
Good luck
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