Phonoclone 3 - Page 73

dimkasta · 27th February 2013, 04:51 PM

Finally I think I am finished with moding my phono...
Last changes are Russian coupling caps (K75-10 at 2.2uF bypassed with FT3 teflon at 0.1uF) and red leds for the indicators.
The red leds where a bit more silent than the super bright white ones, giving a more clear sound.
On the other hand the russian coupling caps were a complete revelation. The difference when replacing the mundorf supreme ones is almost throughout the frequency spectrum. There is way more clarity, detail and energy.
Only the lower bass seems a bit shy at the moment, but they are still pretty fresh from their box. I can t imagine how will they sound when they are properly broken in after the recommended 200 hours... (ouch...) But they already sound terrific...
For the moment the only change I want to do is build a proper chassis for it and replace that ugly aluminum box...

rjm · 7th March 2013, 06:03 AM

Those caps are enormous. They properly belong clamped to the chassis rather than strung off the boards like that.

Bonus points for using the V+, V- I/O pads for LED indicators. I hadn't thought of that. Try to keep the LED currents down below 10 mA though to avoid loading the X-reg unnecessarily.

dimkasta · 7th March 2013, 07:43 AM

Yeah I know about the caps... not to mention that the case is with PCB up when playing which means the caps are hanging from the thin wire like tarzan....

This is temporary anyway. I just need to find some time to get some wood to build a proper chassis (going to shield it with M3 tape)

rjm · 7th March 2013, 09:56 AM

Every component I've ever built has had the boards "upside down"! It's the natural arrangement when using those cast aluminum project boxes.

7th March 2013, 06:03 AM	#722
rjm Richard Murdey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kyoto Blog Entries: 72	Those caps are enormous. They properly belong clamped to the chassis rather than strung off the boards like that. Bonus points for using the V+, V- I/O pads for LED indicators. I hadn't thought of that. Try to keep the LED currents down below 10 mA though to avoid loading the X-reg unnecessarily. __________________ RJM Audio (phonoclone.com / G+)

7th March 2013, 09:56 AM	#724
rjm Richard Murdey diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kyoto Blog Entries: 72	Every component I've ever built has had the boards "upside down"! It's the natural arrangement when using those cast aluminum project boxes. __________________ RJM Audio (phonoclone.com / G+)

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7th March 2013, 07:43 AM	#723
dimkasta Dimitris diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Athens	Yeah I know about the caps... not to mention that the case is with PCB up when playing which means the caps are hanging from the thin wire like tarzan.... This is temporary anyway. I just need to find some time to get some wood to build a proper chassis (going to shield it with M3 tape)