Ariston RD11 with Discovery RB250... armboard? and weight/suspension question - Page 2

chrisb · 6th October 2008, 09:02 PM

drec - did you mention "new springs"?

as the RD11 could easily be over 30yrs old (not necessarily a bad thing - I'm well over that age, and although more compliant that when new, my springy parts still mostly work), where did you get them?

If you haven't had experience playing with adjusting springs on this table, it's not likely too much difference from the LP12, Fons, etc.:
the tightness of mounting bolts, condition of rubber grommets and rotation of springs in relation to each other is as important as their individual torque load.

It's virtually essential to fabricate some type of rig that raises the plinth 18" or so about a work surface and allows you easy access - it's very important it's dead level, both when adjusting the springs, and when playing

drec · 7th October 2008, 04:14 AM

Thanks! I'm thinking of my options re balancing it over the work area.

I just bought a set of Linn springs, brand new, off Ebay.

atavid · 7th October 2008, 10:09 PM

drec,regarding your springs.
The Ariston is slightly different to the Linn (i think) in that the Ariston has an indented washer fitted between two flat washers between the adjusting nut and the lower grommet.This is a mixed blessing in my view as on the one hand it allows you to 'cant' the springs over to one side to aid in getting the circular armboard central in the cutout,but at the same time can end up making the suspension 'catch' slightly unless you've get endless hours to 'beaver' away at it..
I've spent ******* hours mucking around with this setup, and when i got my new Linn springs etc i decided to do away with the indented washers.
I dont always now get my armboard perfectly central in the cutout,instead i concentrate more on getting the platter level and making sure the springs dont rub on the stainless steel bolts.This has given me much more consistent results with obtaining the right amount of 'springiness' in the suspension and as a result much better sound.I also fitted some smooth plastic tubing over the stainless steel bolts,and added a nylon washer between my locknuts and flatwashers.Every little bit helps.

drec · 8th October 2008, 02:48 AM

Thanks for the tips. The notice to pick up the springs and tonearm came in today... getting started on the project once I've gotten them is another story!

Best,
Andre

6th October 2008, 09:02 PM	#11
chrisb diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: victoria BC	drec - did you mention "new springs"? as the RD11 could easily be over 30yrs old (not necessarily a bad thing - I'm well over that age, and although more compliant that when new, my springy parts still mostly work), where did you get them? If you haven't had experience playing with adjusting springs on this table, it's not likely too much difference from the LP12, Fons, etc.: the tightness of mounting bolts, condition of rubber grommets and rotation of springs in relation to each other is as important as their individual torque load. It's virtually essential to fabricate some type of rig that raises the plinth 18" or so about a work surface and allows you easy access - it's very important it's dead level, both when adjusting the springs, and when playing __________________ you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi

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7th October 2008, 04:14 AM	#12
drec diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Thanks! I'm thinking of my options re balancing it over the work area. I just bought a set of Linn springs, brand new, off Ebay.

7th October 2008, 10:09 PM	#13
atavid diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2007	drec,regarding your springs. The Ariston is slightly different to the Linn (i think) in that the Ariston has an indented washer fitted between two flat washers between the adjusting nut and the lower grommet.This is a mixed blessing in my view as on the one hand it allows you to 'cant' the springs over to one side to aid in getting the circular armboard central in the cutout,but at the same time can end up making the suspension 'catch' slightly unless you've get endless hours to 'beaver' away at it.. I've spent ******* hours mucking around with this setup, and when i got my new Linn springs etc i decided to do away with the indented washers. I dont always now get my armboard perfectly central in the cutout,instead i concentrate more on getting the platter level and making sure the springs dont rub on the stainless steel bolts.This has given me much more consistent results with obtaining the right amount of 'springiness' in the suspension and as a result much better sound.I also fitted some smooth plastic tubing over the stainless steel bolts,and added a nylon washer between my locknuts and flatwashers.Every little bit helps.

8th October 2008, 02:48 AM	#14
drec diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Thanks for the tips. The notice to pick up the springs and tonearm came in today... getting started on the project once I've gotten them is another story! Best, Andre

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