Sharp RP-201 turntable, how to make use of it

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Hi!

I've found a Sharp RP-201 turntable (as stated in the subject) and I would like to play some vinyls on it.
But, unfortunately the turntable works "only" when plugged into the SA-201 receiver because the receiver supplies it with the necessary power.
As you can guess, I don't have the receiver.

So, I would like to make a power supply for it...
But - AC or DC, which voltage? :bawling:

The motor is a Sharp BFS2B16-50208-B.

A picture of the turntable's intestines

And I also wonder, which wires connect the cartridge and which are for the power supply.
picture
...another picture
I suppose that the wires labeled with the number 1 belong to the audio output of the turntable. The yellow, black and gray near it go into the tonearm.
And I also suppose, that the green and blue provide the necessary power for the motor.

Another question is...How to know whether does the turntable use a MM or MC cartridge?
BTW the stylus looks pretty bad, so if I will be able to make a power supply for it I think I'll buy a new cartridge.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
 
Looks like green& blue are DC power.
The PCB looks like it could have an onboard transformer in a different model, but none of the rectifiers are present, so its a good guess that this model wants DC.

Probably somewhere between 6v and 12V dc. Try 6, 9 and 12 - in that order, and stick with the minimum that gets it running. You could use one of those 5 watt plug-pack DC adaptors with switchable output voltages.

No chance a TT of this sort of build quality will have a MC cartridge. It may even have a ceramic cart - but no way to tell without a photo of that.
 
Nice idea for the DC adaptor, I'll go get one :)
I've been thinking about building an variable voltage LM317 regulator and then playing with the pot to find the necessary voltage.
But the DC adaptor is cheaper and much less time consuming. Thanks!

O.K., when I was unplugging the cartridge it's rear side popped open and I got a chance to take a look inside. Well, I think I saw a coil inside. Actually, I'm certain that there was a coil on top of a chunk of well...white plastic/or ceramic material. The stylus is plugged into that material.
I'm not a turntable expert, but that seems like a MC cartridge to me. Unless the MM and the ceramic type also have some sort of coil inside...

Here are the pictures of the cartridge:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Basically, the only info on the cartridge are the letters that resemble something like HBI or HBL or even possibly HB1...:confused:

I was not able (actually my camera wasn't able) to take a picture of the interior of the cartridge. You can't see enything on the picture :smash:
 
Ok, that is certainly NOT a ceramic cart.
The coils in a Moving Magnet (or Moving Iron) cart are big and very visible. Looks very moving-magnet from the photographs.

The stylus doesn't look in bad shape from the pics; but to determine if it is still good (other than obvious physical breakage) requires a microscope - to see if the jewel shows flat spots.
 
Steerpike said:
Ok, that is certainly NOT a ceramic cart.
The coils in a Moving Magnet (or Moving Iron) cart are big and very visible. Looks very moving-magnet from the photographs.

The stylus doesn't look in bad shape from the pics; but to determine if it is still good (other than obvious physical breakage) requires a microscope - to see if the jewel shows flat spots.
Great, maybe it's still worth something! :D

Well I've gotten an idea that it's damaged because the stylus itself looks like a bit bent to the right side...How should I say - it's not fully centered.
But maybe that's ockay?
sreten said:
Hi,

The shielded leads are the audio output.

What voltage is the electrolytic near blue / green plug ?

What numbers are on what looks like a 3 leg regulator ?

:)/sreten.
O.K. now I'm definetely certain which wires are for what!
We're making progress here! :)

The capacitor is rated to 16V, it's capacity is 100 uF.

The IC has 4 legs. It's a
LA5512
5A5 B

Our allmighty friend - Google says it is a compact DC motor speed controller made by Sanyo Semicon!
 
You need to be sure to get The + and - connections correct; blue and green aren't a very helpful colour code there.

If you get + and - wrong you will certainly destroy the speed controller IC and maybe a few capacitors.
It may require following the traces on the board from the blue/green connecter till they join something marked with identifyable polarity (like a capacitor)
 
Yes, you are definetely right! I will trace the wires and I'll see which is + and which is -
Well another thing that bothers me, is that the play button can't be pressed :xeye:
The mechanism beyond the play button is connected to something which obviously requires power to work (you can see it on one of the pictures of the interior). A green PCB and red/black wires sticking out of it.
I hope that that thingy is making me trouble, or maybe the position of the tonearm or sth. like that.
But, well, even if it is unfunctional (the play button I mean) I will find a way to get around it :devilr:
I just need to get the motor spinning...
 
Well another thing that bothers me, is that the play button can't be pressed... The mechanism beyond the play button is connected to something which obviously requires power to work (you can see it on one of the pictures of the interior). A green PCB and red/black wires sticking out of it.

Is that sub-pcb not just a power switch?
Try turning the platter by hand several revolutions. The automatic return mechanism may have stopped halfway. If you turn the platter so that the automatic mechanism returns the arm to its rest, and then switches off, it may release the start button.

The photo is confusing me. Things seem to be in odd positions: what is that white plastic lever (near the motor), connected to the mechanism by a thin wire rod?
 
Hi,

The green PCB appears to be the motor power switch.

The rod appears to connect the on / off switches and presumably
also resets the switches after the the arm is returned to its rest.

Show us the top of the deck.

The cartridge is worthless without a good stylus.

:)/sreten.
 
Steerpike said:


Is that sub-pcb not just a power switch?
Try turning the platter by hand several revolutions. The automatic return mechanism may have stopped halfway. If you turn the platter so that the automatic mechanism returns the arm to its rest, and then switches off, it may release the start button.

The photo is confusing me. Things seem to be in odd positions: what is that white plastic lever (near the motor), connected to the mechanism by a thin wire rod?
Hmmm...never thought of that! I will give it a try.

That plastic lever is connected to the start/stop button. The left one is the start button, the right one (closer to the motor) is the stop button.
There is one more button on the far right, for some inversion function.
Other controls on the turntable are located on the upper side - a rotary switch intended to select the propriate speed for EP or LP. And also a lever to adjust the tonearm height.
So Sreten is correct :)

I'll take a picture of the turntable tomorrow, I'm curently unable to do that. :(
 
Oh well, never mind...The belt is...or what's left of it, is not good for anything :(
I would have to buy an adapter, a new cartridge (I was thinking about an Ortofon 2M Red), a new belt...and probably something else :smash:
Since this turntable has been discontinued a long time ago, and it isn't a state of the art....
Thanks for your help guys, but now I don't think that this turntable is worth repairing/upgrading and worth of my time.
I will probably buy some entry level Denon turntable, or make my own one :D
Thanks again :cheers:
 
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