Simplistic NJFET RIAA

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
It will only be valid in same circuit cell emulation as to be finally applied.
The full picture for a device would include measuring all DC parameters plus self noise sample selection and curve tracing. Too much for building stuff, nice for lab thoroughness.
IDSS matching and maybe Vp check should be more than enough for all practical purposes.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
The A970BL is not likely to be in his stash. So I mentioned a plain vanilla common alternative (different pin order).
I don't think he is talking the PCB build BTW.

For C3 & C4 just your "favorites that fit the pads". Because the circuit is voiced neutral.
Mind you it will not have a problem exposing their traits good or bad.
Only watch not to short any unused pads if those caps will have conductive jackets. Keep their bellies just a bit off PCB if not plastic wrapped.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
P.S. I just run a couple of graphs for those.
 

Attachments

  • Snap 2013-09-15 at 20.15.21.png
    Snap 2013-09-15 at 20.15.21.png
    30.5 KB · Views: 470
  • Snap 2013-09-15 at 20.17.27.png
    Snap 2013-09-15 at 20.17.27.png
    30.2 KB · Views: 471
  • 560.png
    560.png
    30.1 KB · Views: 396
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
I prefer the A970BL slightly but a high HFE BC560C is too near. Maybe just my idea there is a bit silkier rendering for the Japanese BJT. At 2mA 4V bias point its only little more linear while it will not go much over HFE 400.

If you are willing to "pay good dollar" for subjective stuff then a special like Audyn True Copper is more natural than Mundorf for C4 IMHO. Jupiter HT or RIKE AUDIO 0.047uF C3 retro like caps could complement the "organic soup".:D
 
I don't think 1837s are film and foil. They are metallized film. I have been trying to find some Wima FKPs for this because they are film and foil.

That said, the Vishays are very good and have a great reputation.
Correct. The Film&Foil Vishay belongs to the KP1830 series, but while you can find the 15nF, 47nf doesn't exist. Same for Wima's Film&Foil FKP2 5mm pitch, which can be green (NOS) or red (new production).
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Maybe a a compact size raw DC rail filter added in the phono box sitting between the umbilical and the channels DC input connectors can bring benefit beyond some passive parts details.

Of course a very balanced design between isolation performance and low output impedance is Keantoken's. Recommended for a before & after test to the handier Folded Simplistic near future builders.
 
Maybe a a compact size raw DC rail filter added in the phono box sitting between the umbilical and the channels DC input connectors can bring benefit beyond some passive parts details.

Of course a very balanced design between isolation performance and low output impedance is Keantoken's. Recommended for a before & after test to the handier Folded Simplistic near future builders.

Do you mean using the capacitance multiplier before the Salas Shunt, or instead of it?
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Whatever it can be produced in the rectification or it can intrude the long power cabling.

In my prototype I could not make it catch a GSM phone buzz and I never trimmed its TPs again not noticing intermittent noises, neither a tonal nor an image shift, since I closed its lid in August. That is stock with basic PSU as it is described in the guide.

This does not mean that other builders will not aspire to more elaborate main PSUs or will not want to try some add on filter, whatever.
Freedom of personalized packaging and configuration, favorite passive parts etc. is part of the joy of building DIY audio.