Simplistic NJFET RIAA

diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Hi,

1/4W will do even for R1. That resistor has only 0.7V across. So it dissipates 85mW only. Don't take those pics too seriously, normally I have some fatter ones because I do tubes and point to point. Its better to have fatter around practically. If there is some real point of interest or caution, I try to note it on the schematic. Use 1W for all resistors, no problem. You can handle them better for soldering.

P.S. How is your listening going up to now? Got rid of some little hum?
 
Thanks for the reply Nicoch. Detailed is good for me, as the rest of the system is a Pedja Rogic buffer, highly modded Quad 405, and modded Jamo concerts. Plenty good enough and balanced slightly on the warm side.

The sibilance is definitely from the TT side of things as there's not a trace of it from my modded cd94 cdp.

Regards, Lee.
 
That may be an idea! I built the phono stage from cheapo resistors as a test to make sure my board layout is ok.

I have the Kiwames to build another, so I'll swap the parts over. The current cart is a Grado Prestige Gold, I was looking at the AT as a possible replacement, I didn't really explain that earlier, sorry.

And yes, those cones are very detailed. Especially with the rewire and Mundorf Supreme caps on xover.

Lee.
 
from tnt

The smaller Concert 8 has the same upper bass, medium, and top-end as its larger sibling. Open, uncoloured, and a bit too bright, especially as the speaker lacks the treble controls in its crossover. Spaced 50cm from the back wall there is a lot of punchy bass for this size of loudspeaker, with quite fine dynamics and scale, but in the end the sound misses a real foundation. This means that the speaker is not balanced correctly, the treble going too far, being not compensated for at lower frequencies.
And this, in my opinion, spoils the '8 completely. It may be technically an accomplished product, but musically it is inferior to, for instance, the Quad 77-10L (grab them while you can!). Maybe that a tube amplifier proves to be a better match, but in my opinion Jamo really should re-think the tonal balance of this model: there is clearly enough potential here to make a decent speaker of it.
 
I read that article on TNT just after I bought my speakers. I must say, that I have never found an article, either online or in a magazine I've disagreed with more, lol. I plugged all manner of kit into them and they only ever sounded bright being driven by a friends Audion Silver Night SE's! But this was only because there was hardly any bass.

After a rewire with Kimber 4tc and Mundorf Supreme caps in the xovers, they now sound fantastic, and very open. Really showing up this sibilance from my TT setup.

How would you characterise the sound from the Denon cart? Detailed for sure, but is it warm or quite bright?

Cheers, Lee.
 
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Joined 2006
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Denon 160 cart sounds very detailed and tracks like a F1 due to the special cut of the stylus... no distortion, no sibilances. It is much better than any MM I have heard. It has the moving coil sound but lacks in subtlety of the better low output ones.

It matches perfectly with my SME3009.

I find it very pleasing with bass "contrabaixo" or cello sounds because of it´s bass detail and fast transient retrieval.

Flute is also presented in full scale, showing all the details of the musician work.

In my setup (Meridian 101b MM RIAA) it is a little too heavy in the bass and enlarges bass instruments.

I am sure it could be "tamed" with the propper input load in a dedicated salas RIAA.

The 103, despite it´s conical stylus, as it is a lower output MC, the moving mass of the cantilever might bring it´s benefits...:D

Ricardo
 
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nicoch46 said:
try a strategic series tantalun resistor ,smooth/clean the voice and gain a lot on ambient/reverb

Hi nicoch46

I was searching for this information for very long !!!

In my RIAA, I have two 100uF 3v tants between the RIAA EQ and Phono preamp.

Do you believe these are there to clean/smooth things and give a wider stage ? (I am considering replacing those with BG N 100u 6.3v because all I can find in the net regarding tants in signal lines is near detrimental).

Or am I just mixing things and the tant "signature" can only be aplyed to resistors ?

Regards

Ricardo
 
DL 103

I search a week on web ,not clear 50% like 50%not

sure are musical ,great mid ,warm ,little rollof on higth

dl103R do better on upper , not ultimate in detail

you need to try for know , system /taste

catridge at 100 € is a toy remember !! this one have some good of upper cartridge , a poor man koetsu for some..
I dont know one day I will try , Salas know more cartidge...


don't buy a catridge near you search on the web the price can as an half !!

10x5 dynavector can found at US300$ inc.shipping ;)
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Hi guys,

Lee can be having issues with his arm tweaking probably. I would not hasten to substitute the Grado. Best test is to connect some friend's TT with MM and listen. If there is same sibilance again maybe there is some issue with Lee's Riaa realization to be solved. Check the Riaa filter components. Are their values correct? He must realistically test and exclude possible causes and not invest on scenario. The 3009 is an arm that a friend had and tweaked a lot just to confirm that it hates MC carts and is only happy with high compliance MM. AKG P20 & Goldring 1042 did well. Denon 160 was sounding incoherent on it and various Ortofon MC also.
 
Shunt up and running

I finally built the the shunt PS from post 247 for the salas riaa I built (post 110) and have been listening to it all day. All done in nice old breadboard style!

For comparison, I also hooked up my Cinemag SUT. Both go into my MFA Magus preamplifier; the Salas RIAA into the line input and the SUT's into the phono input.

The Salas RIAA has more detail and crispness in the higher frequencies. Maybe a tad 'shouty' but this seems to be recording-dependant. This increased resolution does tend to bring out more sibilance in some of my worn records...

The base and lower frequencies however are lacking, not a lot of energy there. The SUT's sound more full; have more substance, oomph and base.

I tried to eliminate variables: both use the same cable. The Magus RIAA is active; so it will sound different. Although MFA used quality stuff, the components are 20+ years old.

The gain of the SUT/Magus RIAA is appx 30-40% more than the Salas RIAA. Salas- does this sound like I need a buffer?

Shunt notes- seems to pull appx 120 mA. I'm getting 36.7 volts out- so all seems to be working fine. I had to use 1/2W resistors on the 220 ohms and an old 1W carbon comp on the 5.6 ohm. The sink gets VERY hot- it's a 45mm x 45mm finned job and I can barely keep my hand on it for more than 15 seconds! :hot:

I won't have much time for tinkering soon with the holidays upon us. Wishing all of you happy Solstice/Hanukka/Cristmas/Kwanzaa!:xmastree:
 

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