Simplistic NJFET RIAA

diyAudio Chief Moderator
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In UFSP you need everything installed, not only Q1 R2, but Q2 R3 too. Q2 alone actually does all modes other than LMC. So have it completed first.

Go down to 32V rail also and try again. MM mode usually demands less than 34V which is a general starting point.
If nothing changes, verify the switches are actually going on/off as expected by using the DMM's continuity buzzer on their pins across. On means a short. Do that with the power off. Verify the resistor values they connect to as well.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
In UFSP you need everything installed, not only Q1 R2, but Q2 R3 too. Q2 alone actually does all modes other than LMC. So have it completed first.

Go down to 32V rail also and try again. MM mode usually demands less than 34V which is a general starting point.
If nothing changes, verify the switches are actually going on/off as expected by using the DMM's continuity buzzer on their pins across. On means a short. Do that with the power off. Verify the resistor values they connect to as well.
Thanks, better now. When I dialed down to 32V I got 4,23V on phono while it's pot was trimmed totally down. To get exactly 4V on phono, the UBiB had to be on 31.2V and another on 31.4V.
Is that OK to proceed?
 
Here are few photos. Not with best lighting, please let me know if need to try harder. :)
Thanks in advance!
 

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Jfet Confussion

Ok Folks,

Just trying to figure the Jfet requirements so I can purchase the correct types and amounts.

Looking at the schematic there is a "2SK369KBL" at Q1 and Q2.
Looking at the Schematic there is a "2SK170BL" at Q4, Q5, and Q6.

I assume all "6" positions are required to be populated with the respective part.

I do have a Technics turntable "SL-BD20D" something very cheap I got about 15 years ago. Don't know what kind of cartridge there is installed. "Cheap" I will upgrade to a new turntable and cartridge very soon. I can afford a Technics Sl-1210GR but can I justify it. Or can I just beg for forgivness from the wife, cause "She" ain't gonna give me permission.

If I had to guess, about a $700 to $800 dollar table and $200 to $300 cartridge. Moving Magnet.


What confuses me is the "2SK369BL".

Do I get the Matched QUAD, I do need "4" of them correct?

I think the "Triple Pair of 2SK170BL" is required, correct? A total of "6"

Still confused about the Matched Pair of "2SK369BL" Would have to order "2" of the matched pairs????

What is the difference between the Matched Pairs and Matched Quads 2SK369BL


What all of the questions above mean is Just tell me what I need. I am an Old Redneck from Louisiana, sure ain't an electronics sort of guy but I can follow directions. Thanks Folks!!!

Listening to The Allman Brothers on My F5 and Waynes 2018 Linestage fed from a Raspberry Pi with an Allo Boss. Time for another Beer.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Q1 Q2 are central parts of the input stage. There where the gain modes configurations take place.
To have all gain modes available you need to install matched quad 2SK369BL (Q1 Q2 per channel i.e. 4pcs).

You can not have the 62dB LowMC gain mode without all four of them 369s in place. But there is also life before quad.
With just a matched pair (only Q2 per channel i.e. 2pcs) you can have 40dB MM 43dB HighMC 56dB RegularMC modes.

All mentioned gain modes are configurable with the DIP switches. No PCB rework is needed to change gain.
Every 2SK170BL position must be populated. They make the rest of the circuit stages which are the same for any gain mode.

About the SL-BD20D there is good opinion in its category and some P-Mount cartridge info & recommendations in Vinyl Engine
Such cartridges are MM but some not too strong 2.5-3.5mV so the 43dB gain mode can also be tested if any better with them.

There are interesting JICO stylus equipped pricier AT92 based P-Mount cartridges with Shibata & Line contact which can lift the sound quality beyond imagined for your now TT. The line contact model has a better cantilever too.
 
Is it correct to say that Q1/Q2 have a positive temperature coefficient with regard to resistance and the bias current (and TP voltage reading) will decrease as the jfets warm? A second related question: Is the bias most sensitive to temperature variation at the highest gain (~62dB) setting? I think the answer is "yes" based on the low series bias resistor values?
 
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