You know a lot more about them than I do so I've ordered UT61E and will send the other back, the price difference isn't massive and hopefully it'll serve me for years to come.
Simplistic is getting better by the hour, I'm going to leave it alone until it has 20 hours on it and then start playing with resistive loading and checking C2Y (i think thats the right one) to try and get to 15.2
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Simplistic is getting better by the hour, I'm going to leave it alone until it has 20 hours on it and then start playing with resistive loading and checking C2Y (i think thats the right one) to try and get to 15.2
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Most MC carts play well balanced when around the 200 Ohm mark in my experience. When the RIAA curve is about correct in a phono and the speakers are about tonally right and suiting the room that happens. What are your speakers?
It will if you will keep it away from accidental big capacitor discharges or high energy arcs. Its no Hioki, Brymen, or Fluke. It can be sensitive to static and its protection scheme won't stand few Joule transients. For small capacitors matching is as good as you can hope of a general use instrument. Its not an LCR unit of course but consistent. Read the manual about using the delta button when you will get it. Its for nulling the excess reading coming from the cabling. Crucial in the nF range.
Alex, this diagram looks good. Except it misses the +red lines in the umbilical. Implied of course but when there is a practical wiring diagram available, people tend to just copy it exactly in the build.
I did not added "+" in order not to load this diagram with too much details. I assumed that positive line is easy to connect and no places for errors. Good point and for all guys: this is just a one way which worked for me and other ways are also available/tested/worked for other guys.
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Diy kit Bastanis Wildhorn (12" wide range driver in back loaded horn cabinet with separate dipole front loaded compression driver doing 7.5kHz and up) which are around 100db efficient run by a 2A3 valve amp
I guess I will have enhance the original manual with few words about the raw board since it wasn't available back then, but the already shown generic PSU that it carries became popular, some experiences about usual Leds VF and Rail+, behavior of 36V transformers & a usual Rdlink value, R3x manipulation. Maybe half a page worth of extras in the notes section. I could borrow your nice finished drawing and stick it in the general wiring section as extra so to make things clearer if you are permitting.
High efficiency pro drivers big speakers category. You don't compromise with the neighbours I see. Or you don't have any.
Is it you can find correct bass level easily by distance to front wall with that model? Which compression driver you got? BMS?The tweeter is a BMS I think (debadged and then treated by Robert) and cabinet is around 120 litres. Neighbours one side but for some reason they don't talk to me anymore 😀.
The bottom firing horn seems fairly easy to get to work in my room (6m x 3.5m x 2.7m and 4 brick walls) as long as it has around 35cm behind it and 60cm from the sidewalls. I have them firing across the narrow side and the driver centres are 3.4m apart.
I have a bass trap behind me on the wall, many people have heard them as I hold hifi wigwam bskeoffs 6 or 7 times a year and nobody has said the bass is overpowering.
The bottom firing horn seems fairly easy to get to work in my room (6m x 3.5m x 2.7m and 4 brick walls) as long as it has around 35cm behind it and 60cm from the sidewalls. I have them firing across the narrow side and the driver centres are 3.4m apart.
I have a bass trap behind me on the wall, many people have heard them as I hold hifi wigwam bskeoffs 6 or 7 times a year and nobody has said the bass is overpowering.
Solid walls are key. Very well then, the room sound seems balanced. That is why your phono build shows normal and familiar trends right away regarding tonallity, loading etc. I strive for a monitor type of sound from the speakers and I use pro drivers in speaker system of my design in an effort to can have a tonally trusty and dynamic acoustic platform, else I don't think I can judge the electronics design right. Tedious process, very iterative, but it pays off in the end.
First impressions are certainly very promising, I'm still waiting on a case for the psu and need to sort the earthing out. I had a jfet stage called a Benedict audio hothead which I enjoyed a lot and was hoping the Simplistic would take what I liked about the Hothead a step further.
I don't think it will disappoint and the Hothead will be back here for a while so I may do a comparison.
I don't think it will disappoint and the Hothead will be back here for a while so I may do a comparison.
Let it settle first and after confident about your C2Y tuning you can use the older phono comparison as a sanity check. If all seems well you will better know if, or where, you want to go further regarding passive parts selection. Its fun but it can disproportionately hit the wallet, so be warned.