That what is have in my new-noise RAW PSU PCB. It is classic RCRC with 2A Stealth Rectifiers and 2x10k bleeders, and Nichi Ele with 0.1 Wima Film Caps. Very basic and simple.
The noise is probably generated (as Salas indicated) from K-milti. I'll tested this weekend.
My not-noise RAW DC PCB is also has same K-Multi and no problems at all. Very quite. My Vripple is in the upper range of uV with 49V output.
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By cabling I meant that I saw cables now between your new raw and C-Multi when it was all in one board before. So it could be making the difference by its inductance on having transient oscillation in the C-Multi now.
no, i don't need buffer stage, and don't know abouth gate resistors, will try without on next step, no audible hum from rail, with plug disconnected nothing changes in 10-15 seconds running on caps, except slow wolume decrease of cource
today experimented cart loading, 100k trimmers and variable cap from old AM radio, finished at around 85k and 15p, will try few days with 82.5 i have and no caps, sonically there is minor difference with or without 15p, but logic says that this is nonsence with 142-146 L/R wiring and mr. Miller
next step is try trimmers at 150R "missing constant" resistors to see what happpens.
cheers
Gate stoppers can bring noise when in same value scale as the cartridge's own winding resistance. If having a Denon DL-110 high MC which has 150 Ohm you would not want to add the 100 Ohm gate stopper's noise for instance. But with 1K Ohm MM cartridge you would not notice it because it hides that gate stopper's noise by being much higher impedance source. "Missing constant" usually sounds sharper than music in my experience when all other things in the system, including speakers and room, are well balanced. But try it for yourself in the context of your own system to see if it proves synergistic.
i'm setting for concorde cart, my dyna10x4 generated strange problem - coil base got loose around cantilever and rotated resulting in r-ch playing l+r, l-ch playing l-r. using toothstick rotated coils back and now sounds right, but is not tight and waits my decision what to do - try with superglue or something else...
now sounds a bit sharp, will try lowering again load R(68-75K), shorting "missing constant" R-s and see where things go...
or may try cascoded first stage
now sounds a bit sharp, will try lowering again load R(68-75K), shorting "missing constant" R-s and see where things go...
or may try cascoded first stage
Try 3.3K to 5.6K load for the Dyna. It prefers no more than 27 Ohm gate stoppers also because of 270 Ohm coils. You will need cascoding for MM due to its inductance resonance with highish input capacitance but the Dyna does not care as much because MC. I would recommend Denon DL-110 instead of mid priced MM or pro MM when the Dyna finally gives up. Because most MM will be a degradation after her. 10X4 is a very good high MC and its ancestor the 10X5 is an expensive cartridge by most MM standards to back that. If having the money, the likes of Ortofon 2M Black and Nagaoka MP-500 can do arguably better than the Dyna for tracking in MM because of their advanced needle profiles. First is cooler the latter is warmer tone. But the Dyna will still give them a few punches in rhythm section and overall verve.
I see. Sorry for misunderstanding. Yes, I'll test it as a tandem and independently for each PCB module. Most likely it is on K-Multi and as you indicated l, I'll also try to play with 0.1uF film cap on main PSU board. Most important that I did not damaged FSP. I just increased Rs from 5.1R (set based in my JFET IDSS) to 6.2R, but it was easy reverse.
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dyna is waiting better times, i'm playing with ortofon concorde, and it seems that load C is higher tnan needed. having plenty room in TT i'm thinking about putting preamp inside and saving hundred and some PF from cable. may test with hood open whitout mods and decide. if i take this path preamp will need jumpers for load and gain selection in case going to high or low MC..... but will give opportunity using MM's and i really like concorde with its solid resonance free body and compability with all OM styluses, including 78, good option for me. will test and decide
So, tonight I finally managed to get my complicated turntable system into a state where I could fire it up with the Salas Simplistic Phono Stage, and am happy to report that in basic terms it all "works".
I have a lot of tweaking to do though.
Primarily, I have to sort out the significant 50hz buzzes I'm getting through my speakers from both the turntable/ air pump combo, and also the phono stage.
Can I get some advice on the general strategy for GND/ program earth wiring for a turntable and phono stage please?
Specific questions:
1. What is the "Gi" position on the circuit boards between C6 and C8? I see that it's connected to GND on the circuit boards, where I should attach chassis GND ( I haven't yet). When I've done that (connected GND to the chassis screw as in diagrams) I am unsure also about what from my turntable I connect to this chassis screw on the back of the phono stage. I could connect it to the actual turntable metal of my turntable, or the quite separate arm structure - which is it? My turntable is a rehoused Lenco. It has an earth connector which goes to electrical earth, which I fitted as it had none present on the original, and I was advised to do it on Lenco Heaven.
2. I have interconnect cables with shielding. Should interconnects between phono stage and preamp and preamp to power amp have shielding connected on both ends, one end, or none?
3. Should program GND and electrical EARTH meet only once in the entire chain of separate hifi components, or is it ok that they intersect at each gain stage?
Many thanks
Lucas
I have a lot of tweaking to do though.
Primarily, I have to sort out the significant 50hz buzzes I'm getting through my speakers from both the turntable/ air pump combo, and also the phono stage.
Can I get some advice on the general strategy for GND/ program earth wiring for a turntable and phono stage please?
Specific questions:
1. What is the "Gi" position on the circuit boards between C6 and C8? I see that it's connected to GND on the circuit boards, where I should attach chassis GND ( I haven't yet). When I've done that (connected GND to the chassis screw as in diagrams) I am unsure also about what from my turntable I connect to this chassis screw on the back of the phono stage. I could connect it to the actual turntable metal of my turntable, or the quite separate arm structure - which is it? My turntable is a rehoused Lenco. It has an earth connector which goes to electrical earth, which I fitted as it had none present on the original, and I was advised to do it on Lenco Heaven.
2. I have interconnect cables with shielding. Should interconnects between phono stage and preamp and preamp to power amp have shielding connected on both ends, one end, or none?
3. Should program GND and electrical EARTH meet only once in the entire chain of separate hifi components, or is it ok that they intersect at each gain stage?
Many thanks
Lucas
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I found the issue of my temporary noise when PSU turned ON in cold condition. Is it Ele Cap (Panasonic FR) in C1 position in k-Multi. It's top cover pop up for some reason. No issue after replacement with new one. Question is remained why I heard noise on both channels? Couldn't see any issue with scope on second channel.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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1. Its a secondary & alternative ground node point closer to the input circuit just in case it proves quieter to go from there to chassis in a difficult situation. Primary point is GND near where it says RAIL+ towards the regulators. There all builders have connected to the phono chassis up to now with very good results on first shot. There is a picture under "General wiring" section in the guide. About where in the Lenco its ground wire must come from I would guess from everything metal in it but ask the guys in Lenco Heaven.
2. Both ends.
3. Chassis GND is the TT grounding post (non insulated to chassis), there two wires go as in answer (1). One from each channel. The electrical GND is properly taken care of by connecting PE of raw board to the mains earthed PSU chassis. Make sure that the main box and PSU box phono panels are not insulated between them by anodizing or paint. Else scratch some so the whole primary box is at FSP signal ground potential, and the whole PSU box at mains ground potential. Confirm with DMM in continuity mode.
I found the issue of my temporary noise when PSU turned ON in cold condition. Is it Ele Cap (Panasonic FR) in C1 position in k-Multi. It's top cover pop up for some reason. No issue after replacement with new one. Question is remained why I heard noise on both channels? Couldn't see any issue with scope on second channel.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Panasonic extra long life 105C capacitor type in good voltage choice and in normal temperature environment to go bad so fast in a very young build is a big surprise. Ask Kean if there is a possibility it ever suffers some great surge current in that position. About two channels my guess is as good as yours. Maybe the noise went all over to common ground.
Salas, you're genius!!! and you're absolutely right!!! It is makes perfect sense now. You refreshed my memory since I had the case with the occasion short-discharge to one of my main big Ele caps and this is was on that channel. It was inrush current that distorted my 820 uF cap in K-Multi. I did not notice that immediately sine all worked as it should and I never listened till FSP is hot. It wormed up and all worked OK..., but when it was cold, it did not perform as it should. I measured it after extraction and value is OK, but I definitely see some physical deformation on it. In did noise, could go via common GND... I'm very happy now. Thank you lot.
If that cap was discharged violently enough to destroy it, I would expect a transistor and/or diode to be destroyed too since it would have to be in the discharge path. Also, I've played with charged capacitors, making fun sparks and I never destroyed a capacitor after just one discharge.
Is it possible the cap had too much voltage at some point?
Is it possible the cap had too much voltage at some point?