I had built single biggish enclosure with care for hum using R-Core and careful AC cables dressing. Short shielded signal routes among other things. Others had shown single wide box builds using magnetically shielded toroid. Use max diagonal distance between inputs and Tx. Also rotate Tx. If not R-Core or EI/Toro but magnetically shielded with flux band don't even think of it. If in the end is measuring successful FFT noise floor in the hum and buzz department then its the same to separated. HMC and MM configs are more likely to succeed since they pick up fields with less sensitivity by gain. MC is a gamble.
They have the magnetic shielding as standard in the the audio range of transformers.
If I were to put the simplistic in the same case as a pair BIB shunt regulators and preamp would the hotrod ding of the regulators affect the temp drift of the phono pre? I am thinking of a large case for phono and pre with PSU separated so I could put the phono in a enclosed case inside the preamp case to shield to from heat if necessary.
Thanks for the suggestion, Salas. I have some 0.1uF Russian Teflons as well as ICW polyprops. I also bought some Mundorfs for the C4 position but I opted for the large, green Russian ones. Any benefit in changing those too?
My FSP is set for MM, so cartridge is my old Nagaoka MP-20. But I'm thinking of moving to a Grado if you think it's a good choice for the FSP.
You may end up favoring the 0.1 Teflons for C3. Watch not to short any pads under them because of their metal barrels. I like the green K-75, even more when bypassed with Teflon, otherwise a little dark maybe but in the confines of character, not heavily. If alone vs Supreme I think its more down to overall system tone on what to mix better. The German ones being film appear more exact in detail when the Soviet K-75 premier PIO appear more relaxed and fleshed out.
Not easy to favor comparably priced Grado models over Nagaoka ones. Yours already has boron cantilever and well judged tone. MP50 had the line contact being the better model than MP20 but you payed for it. Both brands are fully compatible with the FSP nonetheless. The MP500 would be nice or an AT150MLX. http://www.audiokazu.com/
Not easy to favor comparably priced Grado models over Nagaoka ones. Yours already has boron cantilever and well judged tone. MP50 had the line contact being the better model than MP20 but you payed for it. Both brands are fully compatible with the FSP nonetheless. The MP500 would be nice or an AT150MLX. http://www.audiokazu.com/
Note that I will solder every connection on the PCB's. No screw terminals will stay on.
For line in/out I will use very high grade massive copper strands coming from CAT7 cabling. They will be as short as possible and will not even come close to the DC power in lines.
Some of the above have been lessons learned from AndrewT
And they work!
I will post pictures of the progress as I go along.
For line in/out I will use very high grade massive copper strands coming from CAT7 cabling. They will be as short as possible and will not even come close to the DC power in lines.
Some of the above have been lessons learned from AndrewT
And they work!I will post pictures of the progress as I go along.
DC on the raw pcb outputs I believe. 48V DC feed and input stage bias to be adjusted when warm is all by the book
The second stage carries over DC level. So its a matter of AC coupling with a smaller value capacitor before a symmetric supplies buffer or with a bigger capacitor after a single supply buffer as the one already integrated. It has been done before in this thread on matrix board previous version integrations with success. Someone already has a DCB1 and wants to build a phono in the same box so why having two buffer stages in between is the typical situation.
The Power Box is now finished.
I see you put the hot air station in good use for the heat shrink. Nice cable dressing, its a shame the mains Tx wires were not a bit lengthier so to can curve the loom behind and around the cores. Or to have had the IEC box nearer one side, but its already panel cut in position now.
IEC
Hi Salas,
I figured that one out too late..... But I could make the leads a bit longer so the leads can go around
Will do that later.
Thanks!
Hi Salas,
I figured that one out too late..... But I could make the leads a bit longer so the leads can go around
Will do that later.
Thanks!