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#7061 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Hmm, if you don't get bad feedback in the bass easily in your set up, get the 0.1uf FT-2.
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#7062 |
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diyAudio Member
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Bad feedback in terms of simply bad, too much or lack of bass?
It's not that I am a fan of huge bass, but at the moment I wish it was a little more present. |
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#7063 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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If the bass becomes murky and slow when you turn up the volume.
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#7064 |
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diyAudio Member
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Then the quest is not over. FT-2 is not for me. Spendors are rather slow. Is it the same when it comes to FT-1 and FT-3?
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#7065 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Yes, Teflon in aluminum tube. You can use 0.022uF//0.022u FT-1.
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#7066 |
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diyAudio Member
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I could, if that doesn't promise murkyness in a lower region.
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#7067 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berkeley, CA
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Got the boards wired up (for the most part), attached. I've got R-loads yet to voice and install. The Tex-Caps need trimming; presently at 46.6 and 14.06 nF respectively. Trimmers will piggy-back Tex-Caps. C and R out will be directly soldered to output jack in chassis.
I decided to do mirrored layouts to leave room between the two RIAA boards for big PIO output caps and/or the Maximus Lightspeed attenuator. This keeps leads nice and short. Speaking of output caps- I've got a selection. For all the teflon, some nice vintage PIO's might compliment well. I found these polystyrene caps at ham-fests a while back. Might give them a listen, too.. Next step is to power up, get some readings and look at signals on a scope. -Kent |
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#7068 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Air dielectric capacitor trimmers I guess. Things progress like clockwork. Nice.
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#7069 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
What are these small things to connect the components to the pcb? |
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#7070 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berkeley, CA
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Little through-hole eyelets; my local surplus place had them. I cut the tops to form a fork or "U". Easy to drop in/change/connect stuff without removing the board from chassis.
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