Hi RCruz
With prp & kiwame, nichicon kz & silmic II + insterstage ft3 + output auricap sounds with more space between components than the SE phono with vishay nude & kiwame, BG, interstage ft3 + output mundorf SGO.
Actually I'm using 2 regs. V1.0 remote sense, today I'm starting the new 4 regs V1.2R
HI Salas,
thank you for your answer, my question was for electrolytic and I will test the vishay ROE MKP1837 for C2, C4 and C3 15nF MKP1837//1nF FKS2 wima. For my transformer I would like to know where I can buy a r-core or if it's not possible to buy a r-vore I will buy a Plitron 120VA xformer? Thank you! Maxpou
Don't know, but pins are symmetrically spaced and easy to design. Check Hammond website for drawings.
You can also use two veroboard strips where to solder it and then use four bolts to fix on the cabinet floor as I did.
I agree, but it can be shielded with a thin mild steel sheet.
Inexpensive compared to an imported Selectronic R-core (and you know what I mean
) and probably not worse than the other R-core found on ebay.
thanks
First let me say thank you for the wealth of information which has been presented in this thread.
This was my first solid state project and I have to say the results have been great. I started by building a very simple battery powered version. this worked pretty well. I then moved to the version in post 1812. I also built a shunt regulator with this. Some of my questions have been answered in recent posts.
I am getting a slight hum noticeable only with my volume turned way up with no music playing. I will be moving the power supply to it's own box to see if this helps. Right now I have one 10,000uF cap across the voltage coming from the rectifier to the shunt. Is this enough filter? If not what do people seem to like?
This question should not be here, but it refers to parts used in this circuit. Why label one cap as .1uF and another as 100nF? are these not the same values?
Any way thanks for putting up with us less experienced builders. Evan
First let me say thank you for the wealth of information which has been presented in this thread.
This was my first solid state project and I have to say the results have been great. I started by building a very simple battery powered version. this worked pretty well. I then moved to the version in post 1812. I also built a shunt regulator with this. Some of my questions have been answered in recent posts.
I am getting a slight hum noticeable only with my volume turned way up with no music playing. I will be moving the power supply to it's own box to see if this helps. Right now I have one 10,000uF cap across the voltage coming from the rectifier to the shunt. Is this enough filter? If not what do people seem to like?
This question should not be here, but it refers to parts used in this circuit. Why label one cap as .1uF and another as 100nF? are these not the same values?
Any way thanks for putting up with us less experienced builders. Evan
I used a Nichicon gold tune for the filter cap. I built the version with 41db of gain. It seems ok for my adcom cross coil cart. The rest of the system is a homebuilt akaido pre driving an adcom gfa5400 wich runs the mid bass drivers in my home built ariels directly. I also have an active crossover hooked to a bk st 140 to drive the tweeters, and a hafler dh200 bridged to run the subs. My turntable is a dual 505. The build of this phono preamp would not have been possible without the unbelievable amount of info that is here. This relatively simple build has taught me so much and given me the confidence to try other builds. I look forward to more enjoyable hours spent building and listening....Thanks again to all.