I urbano63 well done !
how many Km of internal signal wire ?
perdonami non ho resistito!
usa anche un alberino di prolunga per il pot, tenendo i cavi corti puoi anche evitare i coassiali che hanno un'elevata capacita e metti il phono vicino agli ingressi
Ciao nicoch, ho ricablato.
Now is better ? The longest signal wire is now about 20 cm (from the JC2 clone to output RCA)
Now the last change that I have to do is replace the 10K pot (economic) with an alps or noble
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look good ,a lot better
what do the lateal cap on wood ?
se proprio dovessi trovare un difetto, sarebbero quei condensatori ,colla a caldo e fissali sopra agli altri ...se sono bypass quei fili annullano il fine , se e' segnale peggio pure....
comunque ottimo !
Ps the back panel is not the only side to put connector
what do the lateal cap on wood ?
se proprio dovessi trovare un difetto, sarebbero quei condensatori ,colla a caldo e fissali sopra agli altri ...se sono bypass quei fili annullano il fine , se e' segnale peggio pure....
comunque ottimo !
Ps the back panel is not the only side to put connector
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Iko-Rcruz
OB GALLERY http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123512&highlight=supravox
PS a tube set 45 plus b200-aminence
plus Salas phono/shunt ......
OB GALLERY http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123512&highlight=supravox
PS a tube set 45 plus b200-aminence
plus Salas phono/shunt ......Attachments
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Yes, Teflon bypasses over the Mylar caps.
Now I have learned something new: long wire is bad.
What is better: paste the bypass caps on the output capacitors or remove the bypass completely ?
nicoch:
Ac in signal zone is not good but i have no hum.
PS:
Salas, can i ask you a help for a tube amp?
Pm me tomorrow. I can help on a few general questions. Not some debugging or designing.
Luca,
Although the regulator almost separates the power supply from the amplifier, it does its job still better when it's offered clean, smooth DC. Placing a big (10000uF) elco behind the rectifier bridge introduces nasty voltage spikes 100 times per second each time two diodes are switching off the heavy current needed to load the big elco. I made three filters with relative small caps to filter out ripple and common mode noise. Background is blissfully black.
Here's a shot of my Simple RIAA which was made from inexpensive parts (besides the first two tantalum resistors). I won't boast on success -I'm an amateur like most- but this RIAA sample really sings. The Russian teflons are suspicious to suffer from loose windings, so I tried to fix them tight. Even grounded their case
The toroid on the right is close to the power supply, the whole is about 20cm apart from the amplifier circuit. I can't hear any 50Hz coming from the transformer or 100Hz coming from the PS. The wires from the regulator are as short as I could make them, taking the power straight to the spot where it's needed. Some like to see thicker wires between PS and reg (right Iko?) but I do not achieve any sonic difference from it.
Last week I relubricated the Dual 505/2 and fixed the platter which wasn't mounted flat. What a difference this made. Hifi-world mentions the Dual ULM arm as a bad match to moving coil cartridges but the Denon DL160 sounds awfully good on my bog standard deck. From memory I don't recall my former Gyrodeck with OL arm and Dynavector 1.7mkII on the PhonoDude with Lundahl step ups being on the same reproduction level.
PS If you look for a simple cost effective tube amp, try the RH84. It's big fun
Although the regulator almost separates the power supply from the amplifier, it does its job still better when it's offered clean, smooth DC. Placing a big (10000uF) elco behind the rectifier bridge introduces nasty voltage spikes 100 times per second each time two diodes are switching off the heavy current needed to load the big elco. I made three filters with relative small caps to filter out ripple and common mode noise. Background is blissfully black.
Here's a shot of my Simple RIAA which was made from inexpensive parts (besides the first two tantalum resistors). I won't boast on success -I'm an amateur like most- but this RIAA sample really sings. The Russian teflons are suspicious to suffer from loose windings, so I tried to fix them tight. Even grounded their case
The toroid on the right is close to the power supply, the whole is about 20cm apart from the amplifier circuit. I can't hear any 50Hz coming from the transformer or 100Hz coming from the PS. The wires from the regulator are as short as I could make them, taking the power straight to the spot where it's needed. Some like to see thicker wires between PS and reg (right Iko?) but I do not achieve any sonic difference from it.
Last week I relubricated the Dual 505/2 and fixed the platter which wasn't mounted flat. What a difference this made. Hifi-world mentions the Dual ULM arm as a bad match to moving coil cartridges but the Denon DL160 sounds awfully good on my bog standard deck. From memory I don't recall my former Gyrodeck with OL arm and Dynavector 1.7mkII on the PhonoDude with Lundahl step ups being on the same reproduction level.
PS If you look for a simple cost effective tube amp, try the RH84. It's big fun
Attachments
Jaap thanks for the explanation. I learned something more. But I think that now I cannot change the 10000uF capacitor with 3 smaller filter unless i redo all over again.
The RH84 is interesting but I have already built an amplifier. If I cannot get it to work i sell the parts to build the RH84
The RH84 is interesting but I have already built an amplifier. If I cannot get it to work i sell the parts to build the RH84
Urbano
with all that work ..... one day if you want ,take off diode/caps and put at ac side input in rcrc style ,input r charge slow the fist caps
the R mod can do now
If I understand I could:
remove the diodes from where they are now, mounting them on a separate board near the transformer (it is at 2 meters away in a separate box), after the diode mounting an R (1 ohm ?) followed by one capacitor (4700uF ?) then go with the wires to the shunt, instead of the diodes were put another R (1 ohm ?) that feed the 10000uF capacitor.
I tried to measure one RIAA channel: without load after the cap i got 36VDC. The RIAA + shunt absorbe 68mA.
Just replaced the output wires inside the riaa from branded silver to mogami coax.
Noticeable lower noise due to the screening !!!
Much better overall equilibrium, loosing some high freq frontalness I noticed after replacing the zeners on the shunts.
Now I have a real work of art
Ricardo
PS
When I touch the FT-3 or the cccp silver micas, I can hear big hum... should I connect those to earth ?
Noticeable lower noise due to the screening !!!
Much better overall equilibrium, loosing some high freq frontalness I noticed after replacing the zeners on the shunts.
Now I have a real work of art
Ricardo
PS
When I touch the FT-3 or the cccp silver micas, I can hear big hum... should I connect those to earth ?