Simplistic NJFET RIAA
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 21st February 2009, 09:24 PM #1111 carawu diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jul 2003 Well, Thorsten used the "japan way" of riaa in his ECC83/88 combo. The C values are independent, not fixed in the classic 1 to ~3 way. The formula for this riaa approach isnīt in the Lipshitz papers. Iīm sorry, I never find the real formula. Thorsten told me, that he too doesnīt know the formula, but he constructed his riaa by simulating. Can anybody share the formulas for this kind of approach? Then we are independent off the Lipshitz 1 to ~3 c-values. Carsten
Salas
diyAudio Chief Moderator

Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
Quote:
 Originally posted by ikoflexer The shunt regulator is much better, both versions yours, salas, and the one that I slightly modified. salas, so have you formed an opinion about the ruskie ft-3s?
In what way is better with the shunt BJT?

Not yet, I will get them FT3s in very soon.

Salas
diyAudio Chief Moderator

Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
Quote:
 Originally posted by carawu Can anybody share the formulas for this kind of approach? Then we are independent off the Lipshitz 1 to ~3 c-values. Carsten
I simulated with inverse RIAA and then measured against mathematically generated RIAA curve. I used no formulas.

Regards

Salas
diyAudio Chief Moderator

Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
Quote:
 Originally posted by ikoflexer However, I would like say that I am just exploring some of these variations, and to recommend to everyone to run the salas shunt regulator.
I would think that using a power Darlington instead of a small BJT and Mosfet, gains much in HFE and you don't have to drive a capacitive gate. The only thing practical is that it has to prove itself at 200mA and reliability against time and oscillation tendencies. If it proves good long term behavior, why not recommend it over the BJT+Mosfet? Its one component less so it is a ''Simpler Simplistic''.

iko
diyAudio Moderator

Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto
Quote:
 Originally posted by salas In what way is better with the shunt BJT? Not yet, I will get them FT3s in very soon.

I meant both versions are better than the lm317 and lm338t. Big difference there. I cannot say the bjt is better than anything else.

 21st February 2009, 10:36 PM #1116 Salas   diyAudio Chief Moderator     Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece I understood that, that is why I did the shunts so to upgrade from battery and LMs. I ask because you said ''with great results''. No differences on the subjective front with the power Darlington?
iko
diyAudio Moderator

Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto
Quote:
 Originally posted by salas I understood that, that is why I did the shunts so to upgrade from battery and LMs. I ask because you said ''with great results''. No differences on the subjective front with the power Darlington?
My ears cannot spot a difference. I'd trust other people's ears over mine. But it's such an easy variation that I'm surprised you're not trying it. Then again, if yours works as up to your expectations there is no reason to waste time with others. I think I've said it before, as much as I am interested in results, I also enjoy the exploration aspect.

 22nd February 2009, 06:07 PM #1118 Salas   diyAudio Chief Moderator     Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece Off course I will try it given the first chance. I wrote in few posts above that everything making it simpler and still working at least equally for sound without long term reliability problems is welcome. I sidestepped Darlingtons, was in my head right from the start, because I was afraid of oscillation possibilities for the average DIY attempt. I have the measuring and debugging capability to stabilize, I just wanted it easy for all. But the design proved robust against truly high HFE in your hands. So I will try. Good work.
 22nd February 2009, 06:52 PM #1119 johnm   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire Hi folks Just been reading through this thread and am a litle confused as to the best schemtic to use with my Denon 103-R version? Also which PSU and do I need a shunt? Sorry, I know these are probably simple questions to many here. It'll be used with a solid-state (KingRex Pre) pre-amp for the moment, running into a www.41hz.com Amp6 Basic, or also a Dynaco ST70 with VTA driver board depending on my musical mood Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, - John
 22nd February 2009, 07:01 PM #1120 Salas   diyAudio Chief Moderator     Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece You would need about 60dB of gain for 103R. I will post for your case. The shunt isn't essential, it just trumps series regulators and batteries for sonics.

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