Hi
I have decided to bite the bullet and restore an old Hadcock GH228 unipivot.
As far as I can tell, it's mostly complete, but all the bias weights and threads are missing, the counterweight end stub is held onto the arm by a perished piece of rubber 'bung' and the wiring (internal and external) is in need of replacement.
A few questions:
First, is this worth restoring? I've read good reviews of current Hadcocks (which look similar in design to my old banger) but is there any comparison performance-wise between old and new Hadcocks?
I'm toying with the idea of using the arm on my Orbe in place of the current RB300.
My Hadcock appears to have a black coated aluminium(?) arm wand.
I reckon rewiring won't be too difficult, but I'd be grateful for some recommendations on good quality but inexpensive cabling to try. My preference (dictated by poverty and hamfistedness) would be for cabling that is easy to work with and relatively robust.
As far as the weights are concerned, does anyone have any specs for me (size, weight, hole diameters etc)? That would be a great help if I need to get some more made up.
Of course, if any of you happens to have some spare Hadcock bits and pieces kicking about, please PM me!
At this stage I've no idea how I will fix the end stub to the arm tube - that bit of perished rubber doesn't look good. Any tips?
Many thanks
Martin
I have decided to bite the bullet and restore an old Hadcock GH228 unipivot.
As far as I can tell, it's mostly complete, but all the bias weights and threads are missing, the counterweight end stub is held onto the arm by a perished piece of rubber 'bung' and the wiring (internal and external) is in need of replacement.
A few questions:
First, is this worth restoring? I've read good reviews of current Hadcocks (which look similar in design to my old banger) but is there any comparison performance-wise between old and new Hadcocks?
I'm toying with the idea of using the arm on my Orbe in place of the current RB300.
My Hadcock appears to have a black coated aluminium(?) arm wand.
I reckon rewiring won't be too difficult, but I'd be grateful for some recommendations on good quality but inexpensive cabling to try. My preference (dictated by poverty and hamfistedness) would be for cabling that is easy to work with and relatively robust.
As far as the weights are concerned, does anyone have any specs for me (size, weight, hole diameters etc)? That would be a great help if I need to get some more made up.
Of course, if any of you happens to have some spare Hadcock bits and pieces kicking about, please PM me!
At this stage I've no idea how I will fix the end stub to the arm tube - that bit of perished rubber doesn't look good. Any tips?
Many thanks
Martin
It might be best if you intend re-wiring the arm-tube to ascertain whether it has been filled with Silicone.
I made the mistake of buying a GH220, circa 1981, (to 'match' a Dynavector Ruby cartridge) - which had ball-bearings - not a unipivot... replaced with a Rega RB300 upon its introduction.
George Hadcock supplied me with Black ('floppy' alu) & Stainless Steel tubes - the latter was definitely filled with Silicone - which I kept - it was much 'superior' - if such an adjective could be used when discussing the appalling construction - the arm literally 'fell to pieces' over quite a short time.
I used to have some old bits - but seems no longer - the end counterweights had two grooves - which (almost) retained what appeared to be hard rubber decoupling rings...and the end-stub 'bung' was pretty hopeless too
Not a Hadcock Enthusiast...and a salesman at the time said that he would've refused to stock them - so I was forewarned!
I made the mistake of buying a GH220, circa 1981, (to 'match' a Dynavector Ruby cartridge) - which had ball-bearings - not a unipivot... replaced with a Rega RB300 upon its introduction.
George Hadcock supplied me with Black ('floppy' alu) & Stainless Steel tubes - the latter was definitely filled with Silicone - which I kept - it was much 'superior' - if such an adjective could be used when discussing the appalling construction - the arm literally 'fell to pieces' over quite a short time.
I used to have some old bits - but seems no longer - the end counterweights had two grooves - which (almost) retained what appeared to be hard rubber decoupling rings...and the end-stub 'bung' was pretty hopeless too
Not a Hadcock Enthusiast...and a salesman at the time said that he would've refused to stock them - so I was forewarned!
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