Tapedeck Controls don't want to latch - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Analogue Source
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Analogue Source Turntables, Tonearms, Cartridges, Phono Stages, Tuners, Tape Recorders, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 5th April 2008, 08:02 PM   #1
bulgin is offline bulgin  South Africa
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Default Tapedeck Controls don't want to latch

Hi Guys

I have a problem. Elsewhere, I posted an image of a vintage Tandberg TCD310 MK11 tapedeck which I bought recently. It has been cleaned-up and looked and worked superbly for a day or two.

Unexpectedly, the 'piano key' controls stopped wanting to latch. I've taken the front panel off trying to figure what the problem may be.

From the photograph, you can see I've taken the switch keys out but I cannot figure out how these should latch, once in place.

The controls are from left to right on/off (self-latching switch), rewind, stop, wind/fast forward, play (wider key) and record.

Directly after the self-latching switch, are 5 non-latching switches. Each of the keys hook into the L-shaped white thingies you can see in the pic.

Directly above the switches, is a pressed plate with 4 'fingers' which I stupidly bent carefully backwards and forwards in my efforts to see if I can get the function keys to latch. The flimsy springloaded channel plate pivots in two places in the panelmount for the meters. A small spring pulls this bar with the 4 'fingers' upwards. At the righthand end of the '4-fingered', springloaded bar, is a thinner section which engages with a trap or latch mechanism similar to what one could find on oldtimer gates. Hereafter, I will post a second pic, showing this part.

In my efforts to work out how this lot works, all 4 'fingers' broke off after only two bending adjustments. All four have been hardsoldered back on after removing the bar but I must have got their angles wrong.

I am not sure if the springloaded bar and the 'fingers' are the actual latching mechanism or if there are an as yet unseen solenoid acting on the latch, holding the key controls in place, once pushed in.

Does anyone perhaps please have an idea how to fix the problem?


Attached Images
File Type: jpg img_0193-1.jpg (57.1 KB, 57 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th April 2008, 08:05 PM   #2
bulgin is offline bulgin  South Africa
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Default Tapedeck...


Here's a view of the springloaded bar's latching mechanism.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg img_0195.jpg (45.8 KB, 55 views)
  Reply With Quote


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Remove push latch on Neutrik B series sockets fmak Parts 0 2nd April 2007 11:17 AM
Mitsubishi tapedeck gain wire Parts 2 28th February 2007 09:59 AM
t-latch in LTSpice zilog Software Tools 0 13th January 2007 12:51 AM
How do I confirm the playback eq on the tapedeck (reel) meets the standard ? percy Analogue Source 1 12th November 2006 01:30 PM
Eumig FL 1000uP tapedeck Stabist Analogue Source 1 20th November 2004 02:16 PM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:16 AM.

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2017 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2