DIY turntable headshell leads

[Bouquet]

Hi Keith , yes I am talking about a serial port.
You could cannibalize your old computer , but probobly this will leave you with a PCB version with long bendid clips.
Any electronics store store should be able to provide you with a cable version .

I really doubt if there's someone on this piece of rock , orbiting the sun , who can provide you with the separate clips .
Maybe someone who's involved with the fabrication of this connectors.

greetings

Ron Bouquet

 

[patknk939]

Hi Bouquet

This is really creative. I guess it's not going to be easy to get this port - the D-connector - from compu parts store here in West Canada. However, I happen to have a bunch of out-dated compu cables, like printer cables, etc, and found one with a plug with connector (embedded in pastic casing) that looks similar to the one you pictured. I'll gently dismantle (or smash, if need be) it to try my luck.

Regards
patknk939

 

[patknk939]

Hi. I've dismantled the plug of the cable I mentioned earlier. Clips revealed and they are quite good and rigid. Need to de-solder the wires before the clips can be pulled out. If not after a high-end set of headshell leads, the colored wires of the computer cable can be re-used by cutting them to the desired length and re-soldering them to the clips. Shrinking tape to be used on all clips to prevent them from touching each other when connected to the cartridge pins. I have 4 pics showing how the plug looks like after dismantling but for unknown reason I have not been able to attach them to my message. I'll keep trying to attach them. In any case, this is an inspirational idea from Bouquet.

Cheers
patknk939

 

[KP11520]

So, as usual, I get hyper-focused because I can't believe you can't find these clips without dissecting something.

It turns out they are called "D-Sub(miniature) female pins." They are easily available with crimp ends but you need to watch the wire gauge range with these. (headshell wires are usually 28 to 33 ga.) Also watch the overall length because there ain't much room between the cartridge and headshell. They are available below as the 2 petal tulip style and are gold plated.

The more I dig, the more I am beginning to think that the big Disti's (Digikey, Mouser, etc.) carry different types of these. Some with tulip ends and some with barrel connectors and maybe in various sizes (maybe 1.0 mm and 1.2 mm). Possibly with solder cups too. But maybe crimping and then soldering might actually be more durable though. So it all depends on the investment you are willing to make in order to make your own (Crimper, wire, solder, heatshrink tubing, etc.).

If you make your own, maybe you can find 3 to 1 or maybe 4 to 1, color coded, shrink wrap for the barrels and small gauge wire to prevent shorting and give additional strength to where the wires and connectors meet.

So, I have hyper-focussed too much, does anyone else want to take over?

Here: http://www.catskillsupply.com/dsubcrimp.html

Maybe someone can also recommend appropriate wire. I have some Cardas Tonearm wire but maybe there are better ideas.

Here's the baton.... don't drop it! This race needs to be finished, we are all paying too much for these things, especially if they are the better, correct fitting ones! LOL

Regards//Keith

 

[offanonone]

Find an old AM radio and strip out the ferrite rod ariel. The fine wire around the rod is good quality 6 or 8 strand copper with silk or cotton insulation. Don't try to strip it with cutters, just heat with the tip of a hot iron and tin with solder. Tin the bucket of a sub D pin push the wire into the bucket and re-heat (no more solder needed)
When you have 4 pieces made up, paint the solid part of the pin and onto the wire for a few mm's with blue, red green and white model paint (i use Humbrol left over from my modelcar making days.
Result = good leads at an even better price.
I have used this method on both my arms, Hadcock 220 and lenco L75.

Regards,

John.

 

[patknk939]

Here's the link to 4 pics of the dismantled printer cable plug I mentioned earlier.

Pic #1

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn88/patknk939/P1030848.jpg

Pic #2

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn88/patknk939/P1030849.jpg


Pic #3

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn88/patknk939/P1030850.jpg

Pic #4

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn88/patknk939/P1030851.jpg

I've been trying to attach these pics to my message but not successful. I don't know why. So, click the link to see them.

patknk939

 

[dnsey]

FWIW, D-sub female 'pins' are available from Farnell here in the UK, and therefore probably from most of the larger supplies worldwide.

 

[GaryB]

Here are some versions you can buy at Digikey:

24-28 AWG - gold over brass

and

22-26 AWG - gold over nickel over phosphor bronze


---Gary

 

[patknk939]

Hi GaryB. These D-sub female connectors from Digikey look quite similar to those I got from the printer cable plug as shown in Pic #4 in my earlier thread.

patknk939

 

[KP11520]

Yes they are,

You just have to consider a few things. These are crimp on connectors. Do you have an appropriate crimper? If you crimp these, don't forget to solder afterwards. Crimped, then soldered IMO is the best.

These are for 24 to 28 gauge wire. What gauge are you using for your headshell leads? I have 33ga Cardas wire. Also, do you have appropriate heatshrink tubing?

Last, these are just over 1/2 inch long, will that work with your headshell and cartridge?

I prefer to keep looking until I can find specifically sized clips for 1.0mm and 1.2 mm pins and buy both sizes. Similar to those used on Audioquest's Headshell leads. Except they have only the 1.2mm size on both ends. I also want them gold plated and made for 33ga wire. Hopefully short enough to fit in a headshell to the cartridge.

The truth is out there! Onward!

Regards//Keith

 

[Pano]

Find an old AM radio and strip out the ferrite rod ariel. The fine wire around the rod is good quality 6 or 8 strand copper with silk or cotton insulation.

Litz wire? I have certainly used Litz wire for tonearms.

 

[patknk939]

Originally quoted by KP11520. You have to consider a few things.....

I'm thinking of using a 24 gauge silver cable for the leads. As to soldering after crimping, I would try soldering just one slit (there are 2 slits on the clips) to allow for easy future changes of leads. Thanks for bringing up the issue of 1/2" long clips. I have yet to get the clips from the dissected printer cable. Only after that can I know how they will work between the cartridge pins and that of the headshell. I've got some heatshrink tape much larger than the clips and I hope with stronger heat they would shrink enough to do their job.

patknk939

 

[patknk939]

Finally got around to solder the clips from the printer cable to the short length of cables to make 4 headshell leads. However, in my case, the clips fit the headshell pins perfectly, but not those of the cartridge. They are not large enough for the cart pins. So, had to re-use 4 of the old clips to connect to the cartridge.

patknk939

 

[KP11520]

The headshell pins are 1.0 mm in diameter and the cartridge pins are 1.2 mm in diameter.

Believe it or not, you have the harder ones to find. Most audio DIY shops sell the 1.2mm cartridge clips.

Or go to eBay and look up OZenterprises. He seems to be advertising the Unity Audio headshell leads for 7.99 again with $1.00 for shipping.

I found a female DB15 connector at Radio Shack unassembled. It came with 15 female gold plated pins not mounted or terminated for $3.00. I bought one for the pins only. They are crimp type though and I need to figure out how to crimp to 33ga wire and then solder for insurance. But these are probably only for the 1.0mm pins.

Regards//Keith