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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: BLITZBURGH
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Hello all!!! This is my first posting. I've been intently reading all the DIY TT threads, and the thought of making my own TT seems HELLACOOL
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It's a burgh thing |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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McMaster-Carr has all. So does TAP Plastics. There are a lot of grades of acrylic available, both filled and unfilled. Horses for courses- there is no "best," only good and bad choices for specific applications and design tradeoffs.
There are a lot of options for metal-to-plastic attachment. Screws, certainly (though one has to be mindful of torque and design in a way of spreading out the force). Adhesives, too- being careful to allow enough compliance to not have failure from mismatch of thermal expansion.
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“There are no greater liars in the world than quacks, except for their patients.” - Benjamin Franklin |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Musicville
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I highly recommend CAST Acrylic Sheet. That is what I use in my machining projects. Look for Lucite L Cast Acrylic sheet. If you have never worked with Acrylic, be careful, do not drill pilot holes and then chase them with larger drills unless you have the work held down securely, otherwise it will suck up and cause you injury. Acrylic will also crack if you don't have a good method of drilling. It saws easily and machines well, but you must have a good process in mind before starting the project. Good luck!
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Musicville
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Quote:
Are you doing this project in a garage and using hand tools? 1 important thing that will help you obtain good entry and prevent chipping when the drill goes through the workpiece is to place a plate underneath the piece you are drilling. That will support the acrylic when the drill breaks through the other side and prevent chipping. Also, do not drill a small pilot hole and then chase it with a larger hole. You will chip the material as well as risk the drill sucking into the work. Good drill point geometry for the drill should be between 60 & 90 degrees. Finally, always make sure you have a sharp tool. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: -
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I just got done making some pieces of equipment with acrylic. After drilling and before glueing remember to anneal the part with a heatgun. ~50-60 C should do it.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Musicville
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Here are links with some info on working with Acrylic.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/acrylic.htm http://www.plaskolite.com/fabguide/pg08.pdf |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brantford, ON
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If anyone cares on my input here......LEXAN is the best acrylic to work with....it can be machined,threaded,formed and the stuff is bullet proof...I currently buy it for my designs at 200CAN for a 4X8 sheet...I have done pretty much everything with this product....nice thing about it also is it comes with a peel off plastic backing so it does not get scratched....it also comes in different tints as well as clear...the trademark is owned by 3M but there are other manufactures that have a similar product
Cheers!!The DIRT® |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Oh, yes...almost forgot about Lexan. Excellent idea. Thank you for the reminder. Cheers,
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Frank |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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I didn't check it myself, but acrylic probably has better damping properties and sounds better than Lexan. You can even feel the difference when handling both. Here's my recent baffles, machined out of 2" acrylic.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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