That'd be a PITA to make though. It'd be easier if you could mount the arm eccentrically on the top of the pod - that way you could just swivel it around a bit to get the S to P correct.
The way I did it - the arm is sitting on a ovaloid alu plate. The centre of the big end of the plate is bolted down to the plinth/armpod. The arm is mounted on the centre of the small end of the plate. Loosening the hold down bolt allows to accomodate nearly any arm length - even 12".
Just have a look at the set up on a clear pic of one of the teres tables and you'll see in pics what my crappy description is trying to show.
Kilowattski:
back up there was a discussion of the material for the platter ie teflon/acrylic/umhw and so on. FWIW, and IMHO you should just go for now and copy the redpoints and use teflon. Its kind of a standard and will allow you to get a feeling for the sound off the TT. You can then always get your local friendly woodturner to make you a matching plate in cocobolo using the teflon as a guide. Also acrylic and so on. But build it standard first I think.
Watch when assembling the bearing. RESIST the temptation to twist the shaft dry in the sleeve. Also an easy to get it right when assembling: Mount the bearing, put in the excess oil following Chris' instructions. Then put the platter on upside down and let it settle like that. Then you will be able to clean up the mess of overflow oil easily and still make sure the little bath at the top of the bearing is comfortably full.
Fran
The way I did it - the arm is sitting on a ovaloid alu plate. The centre of the big end of the plate is bolted down to the plinth/armpod. The arm is mounted on the centre of the small end of the plate. Loosening the hold down bolt allows to accomodate nearly any arm length - even 12".
Just have a look at the set up on a clear pic of one of the teres tables and you'll see in pics what my crappy description is trying to show.
Kilowattski:
back up there was a discussion of the material for the platter ie teflon/acrylic/umhw and so on. FWIW, and IMHO you should just go for now and copy the redpoints and use teflon. Its kind of a standard and will allow you to get a feeling for the sound off the TT. You can then always get your local friendly woodturner to make you a matching plate in cocobolo using the teflon as a guide. Also acrylic and so on. But build it standard first I think.
Watch when assembling the bearing. RESIST the temptation to twist the shaft dry in the sleeve. Also an easy to get it right when assembling: Mount the bearing, put in the excess oil following Chris' instructions. Then put the platter on upside down and let it settle like that. Then you will be able to clean up the mess of overflow oil easily and still make sure the little bath at the top of the bearing is comfortably full.
Fran
Fran,
Do you mean I should get a wood turner to turn some Cocobolo for me on one of these things that I have in my woodshop?
Just kidding.....I am also an avid woodworker.
Do you mean I should get a wood turner to turn some Cocobolo for me on one of these things that I have in my woodshop?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just kidding.....I am also an avid woodworker.
Those glaser gouges are great aren't they? I visited Jerry Glaser one time in LA and he was a true gent. Sharpened every one of thsoe things on a big home made contraption in the basement. Had a great collection of turning from all over. And 2 beautiful Sam Maloof rockers in ebony. Like silk they were. Never liked the sorby stuff though - I'm using mostly hamlet tooling now.
I didn't realise you were a turner! - now you have absolutely no excuse - go and make a top surface from some cocobolo. All you need is some home made cole jaws to hold it.
BTW, my workshop is never that tidy, even when I tidy it up
Fran
I didn't realise you were a turner! - now you have absolutely no excuse - go and make a top surface from some cocobolo. All you need is some home made cole jaws to hold it.
BTW, my workshop is never that tidy, even when I tidy it up
Fran
Fran,
The shop isn't always as tidy as you see in the picture. My wife is a turner also. She turns alot more than I. I usually turn a piece that will be used in one of my woodworking projects. My wife on the other hand is creative and turns for the shear joy of it. We both went to some classes. She is the one who really keeps the shop neat. It also helps to have good dust collection. The glaser gouge is hers and if I touch it she gets really mad. I usually sharpen the gouges. I don't think you can see it but I have a Oneway sharpening jig attached to the grinder. I figure if I sharpen one I sharpen as many as need it. I figure I will try the teflon and then try the Cocobolo also. I don't have alot of tools in the shop but I have the essentials. I have a Jet cabinet saw with a router table built into the end table, Jet 15" planer, Delta DJ20 planer, Drill press, MiniMax bandsaw, a Leigh Dovetail Jig and of course the Lathe. My wife and I are DINKs (Dual income no kids) so I can afford some time at both hobbies.
The shop isn't always as tidy as you see in the picture. My wife is a turner also. She turns alot more than I. I usually turn a piece that will be used in one of my woodworking projects. My wife on the other hand is creative and turns for the shear joy of it. We both went to some classes. She is the one who really keeps the shop neat. It also helps to have good dust collection. The glaser gouge is hers and if I touch it she gets really mad. I usually sharpen the gouges. I don't think you can see it but I have a Oneway sharpening jig attached to the grinder. I figure if I sharpen one I sharpen as many as need it. I figure I will try the teflon and then try the Cocobolo also. I don't have alot of tools in the shop but I have the essentials. I have a Jet cabinet saw with a router table built into the end table, Jet 15" planer, Delta DJ20 planer, Drill press, MiniMax bandsaw, a Leigh Dovetail Jig and of course the Lathe. My wife and I are DINKs (Dual income no kids) so I can afford some time at both hobbies.
When making Teflon I would also make a PVC mat. You can get 1/2x12x12 PVC plate for $20. Making all those countersink holes later is not going to be easy even with Teflon mat as a guide. If you have CNC set for Teflon, doing PVC should be fast without much more mess.
I would definitely try cocobolo but do not expect same results from ½” mat as Teres gets from massive epoxy saturated cocobolo platter.
Fran said it before but I say it again: leveling of motor is essential; providing 3 adjustable and lockable legs is a good idea. I also made the motor distance adjustment because stiff flat belt needs very little tension but it has to be precisely set.
Marek
I would definitely try cocobolo but do not expect same results from ½” mat as Teres gets from massive epoxy saturated cocobolo platter.
Fran said it before but I say it again: leveling of motor is essential; providing 3 adjustable and lockable legs is a good idea. I also made the motor distance adjustment because stiff flat belt needs very little tension but it has to be precisely set.
Marek
Fair enough - all of my plinth is wood - I also use the gap under the 3 feet as a way for the leads in and out of the motor pod. On the Teres there are 2 cables into the pod - one is juice and the other is the readout from the LED strobe under the platter. You need to be able to plug/unplug those if you have to take away the motor pod for any reason.
It will be a great TT - just think how much better than the equivalent parts price.
Nice shop gear. I like the Jet stuff - although I only have a small drill press from them. I've used one of the bigger lathes when doing a few demos here and there. nice machine and very solid. Great hobby that - very relaxing and yet productive.
Fran
It will be a great TT - just think how much better than the equivalent parts price.
Nice shop gear. I like the Jet stuff - although I only have a small drill press from them. I've used one of the bigger lathes when doing a few demos here and there. nice machine and very solid. Great hobby that - very relaxing and yet productive.
Fran
My shop is really nothing special. Some of the guys im my woodworking club have hobby shops that you would swear were production cabinet shops. I guess they were bitten by the bug big time. Aengus, it is the woodworker not the tools. There are guys in the club who can make dovetails as fast and as nice as I can make with my Leigh Jig using hand tools. I got a bigger bandsaw as a birthday present because she saw it demoed at a turning show. I will never admit it to her because I don't want to hurt her feelings but I made lots of nice things just as easily using my 14" Delta. I am sure you will do real well with that new Rikon of yours. Better tools make it just a touch easier to get there, but either way you will arrive at the same place.
Looking at the drawing of your motor pod I assume that the motor is submerged in lead shots. Is your motor screwed to the lid of the pod? If not, its position might be a little off; that’s why I stressed an importance of an effective leveling system.
I am also a novice to this so I may be wrong but I remember that some people did not like the sound of metal TT set on stone slab and preferred a softer shelf.
Marek
I am also a novice to this so I may be wrong but I remember that some people did not like the sound of metal TT set on stone slab and preferred a softer shelf.
Marek
It is screwed into the lid. I did lower the motor pod about a 1/2" so the belt would contact the platter where the bearing shaft is in the housing. This turntable is all about big mass because of the lack of suspension. The table needs to be damped somehow. I never depend on anyone elses ears, just my own. I will let you know if it is a success when it is finished. I modeled my turntable after the Redpoint for a number of reasons. A few I discussed earlier but I think the most important one is I have auditioned a Redpoint table with a Triplanar arm and it was one of the best analog setups I have ever experienced. I wish I had the cash to buy a real one but it will be fun DIYing a table too.
A few thoughts....
It is my understanding that the Teres bearing shaft is not hardened. This is not a good thing for long term wear. Have you knowledge of the material and heat treatment process used iff any since I have read comments from a Teres user who took the bearing apart after several months of use and noticed considerable scoring.
RE: Machining acrylic; It is very machinable with standard machine tools. Diamond tools are absolutely unnecessary. I machine acrylic a lot. It just takes a slightly different approach to obtain good results, both cosmetically and dimensionally.
I would not use lead in the platter. It will be too dead, especially since you plan on using lead in the plinth.
An aluminum platter (by itself) will ring like a bell. I'm sure you knew that but you'll have to address that. Teflon bolted to an aluminum platter, never have understood that, especially with the bolts exposed from the top.
There are so many different opinions on inverted vs. non-inverted bearing types, I'd recommend building both types and making your own opinion.
BTW, You really should finish turn any diameters on a lathe. Mills are fine for roughing, but finishing diameters will not be as "precise" or cosmetically pleasing (if that matters). I own 2 HAAS VF-2's myself and only use them for roughing profiles. All finishing work is accomplished on a lathe.
kilowattski said:
It is my understanding that the Teres bearing shaft is not hardened. This is not a good thing for long term wear. Have you knowledge of the material and heat treatment process used iff any since I have read comments from a Teres user who took the bearing apart after several months of use and noticed considerable scoring.
RE: Machining acrylic; It is very machinable with standard machine tools. Diamond tools are absolutely unnecessary. I machine acrylic a lot. It just takes a slightly different approach to obtain good results, both cosmetically and dimensionally.
I would not use lead in the platter. It will be too dead, especially since you plan on using lead in the plinth.
An aluminum platter (by itself) will ring like a bell. I'm sure you knew that but you'll have to address that. Teflon bolted to an aluminum platter, never have understood that, especially with the bolts exposed from the top.
There are so many different opinions on inverted vs. non-inverted bearing types, I'd recommend building both types and making your own opinion.
BTW, You really should finish turn any diameters on a lathe. Mills are fine for roughing, but finishing diameters will not be as "precise" or cosmetically pleasing (if that matters). I own 2 HAAS VF-2's myself and only use them for roughing profiles. All finishing work is accomplished on a lathe.
kilowattski:
Again: build the thing with the stuff you have. If you agonise over every detail it'll never get built. Build it taking on what suggestions you can.
I thought I could remember seeing pics that someone had taken of a Teres bearing a year after being installed and there was virtually no marks on the shaft. I know the brass of the body would be softer, but still....
Finish turning on a lathe is a good idea. If you hold the platter by the centre recess where the bearing will go and then true the outside edge/surface to that you will have perfectly true running. Important when the belt runs on the outside.
Fran
Again: build the thing with the stuff you have. If you agonise over every detail it'll never get built. Build it taking on what suggestions you can.
I thought I could remember seeing pics that someone had taken of a Teres bearing a year after being installed and there was virtually no marks on the shaft. I know the brass of the body would be softer, but still....
Finish turning on a lathe is a good idea. If you hold the platter by the centre recess where the bearing will go and then true the outside edge/surface to that you will have perfectly true running. Important when the belt runs on the outside.
Fran
Thanks guys for your comments.
Vinyl Addict:
It is funny how a number of responders have opposing view points. You think it will be like a bell and Mark Kelly thinks it will be too dead. I am modeling my turntable after a successful commercial table, the Redpoint Model D. I have auditioned one of them and to my ears it is audio nirvana. If you get a chance go to their page at http://redpoint-audio-design.com/index.html. Peter Clark the designer of the Redpoint was an original Teres Builder and went on to refine the design and started Redpoint. The Model D is $19,500 and I don't have that type of scratch so I am building one.
I read quite the opposite and I guess Fran did also. We read there was very little wear after a year of use with the Teres bearing. The bearing shaft is case hardened steel. I don't know where you got your info from. The platter and plinth will both be turned after machining. I don't understand your comment about turning any size on a lathe. The lathe I will be using only has a capacity of 13" over the Bed. Any larger than that I am out of luck. Thats the reason I will turn it last. I must say though that my neighbor makes custom wheels all the time out of an aluminum billet on his Haas and requires no turning with surfaces that are ultra smooth.
I don't understand the concern about screws into the teflon. The teflon was choosen because of it's effectiveness as an interface between the aluminum and the vinyl record. Pete Clark tried alot of different materials and teflon did it the best. Why would the countersunk cap screws make a difference. The teflon can not be glued. It one of the slickest substances around.
I have listened to alot of tables with platters made of simple acrylic and have never been impressed sonically. True enough, it is a cheap enough material. I tried machining a Plinth on my first attempt with normal machine bits and had melting problems with the plastic because of the heat. When I tried coolant, it discolored the acrylic. I would love to see how you do it.
Fran:
You and I are on the same wavelength. I will start writing the G-Code for the milling machine tommorrow. Tonight I will finish my autocad drawings.
Vinyl Addict:
It is funny how a number of responders have opposing view points. You think it will be like a bell and Mark Kelly thinks it will be too dead. I am modeling my turntable after a successful commercial table, the Redpoint Model D. I have auditioned one of them and to my ears it is audio nirvana. If you get a chance go to their page at http://redpoint-audio-design.com/index.html. Peter Clark the designer of the Redpoint was an original Teres Builder and went on to refine the design and started Redpoint. The Model D is $19,500 and I don't have that type of scratch so I am building one.
I read quite the opposite and I guess Fran did also. We read there was very little wear after a year of use with the Teres bearing. The bearing shaft is case hardened steel. I don't know where you got your info from. The platter and plinth will both be turned after machining. I don't understand your comment about turning any size on a lathe. The lathe I will be using only has a capacity of 13" over the Bed. Any larger than that I am out of luck. Thats the reason I will turn it last. I must say though that my neighbor makes custom wheels all the time out of an aluminum billet on his Haas and requires no turning with surfaces that are ultra smooth.
I don't understand the concern about screws into the teflon. The teflon was choosen because of it's effectiveness as an interface between the aluminum and the vinyl record. Pete Clark tried alot of different materials and teflon did it the best. Why would the countersunk cap screws make a difference. The teflon can not be glued. It one of the slickest substances around.
I have listened to alot of tables with platters made of simple acrylic and have never been impressed sonically. True enough, it is a cheap enough material. I tried machining a Plinth on my first attempt with normal machine bits and had melting problems with the plastic because of the heat. When I tried coolant, it discolored the acrylic. I would love to see how you do it.
Fran:
You and I are on the same wavelength. I will start writing the G-Code for the milling machine tommorrow. Tonight I will finish my autocad drawings.
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