tone arm lift

[woodturner-fran]

Just got an email back from jelco. The arm lift is listed as 3500 yen ea plus 1500 for post (EMS) giving a total of 5000yen. XE gives that as about €30. Not bad really - If I hadn't been successful I would have bought one.


I'm not in a position ot do a group buy but if someone goes for it, I will join in.

[woodturner-fran]

RE: bobken's suggestion to oil the up/down piston and grease the cam to give the damping works well - this is the route to go.

Just a quickie update!!


Fran

[binspaul]

Originally Posted by Bobken

Hi,

A simple but effective pickup lift can be made out of readily available materials, for not much cost, and with minimal tools like a miniature hacksaw, file, drill etc.

If I can show an attachment (it didn't when I checked "Preview Reply"!), this should become clear, and the hardest part for anyone without a good workshop will probably be drilling the base where 2 holes are needed at right angles to each other. The materials can be softer metals like aluminium or even acrylic etc., which will make any drilling sawing and filing less onerous, and will be quite adequate for this purpose. Incidentally, knitting-needles, which are available in plastic and highly-polished alloy in all different diameters, are very useful for making thinner rods or bars, and are also easy to obtain and inexpensive.

The main parts are the slotted tube which needs to be chosen to suit a piece of round bar as a close 'slip fit', and the inner bar which has the rod inserted at right angles to form the pick-up arm support. The cam is made also from (the same?) round bar, with a part of it removed by filing, and this is inserted from the back of the base-block, with a couple of small pins at each side of the base being fitted in the round bar to locate this cam, to prevent lateral movement. The second pin is inserted after the cam is located in the base, and if provision is made for a washer at both faces of the base, this will prevent any sticking or scraping when the lift is in use.
Then the tube is glued (if the fit is not tight enough without) into the vertical hole in the base, with the slot aligned suitably for the arm position, and the inner rod is slid down so that the arm-lifting peg is within the slot. When rotating the cam via the handle, the inner rod and arm-lifting peg will then move up and down, as will the arm if this is positioned appropriately.

No dimensions are critical, and it is best to draw the various parts out to scale first to establish the required lifting-action of the cam, and the positioning of the entire lift compared with the arm and the base-board of the turntable, to ensure that it all works as intended.

I hope this may help, and can anyone who might be interested tell me how to convert a bitmap (bmp) image into something suitable to attach here. This appears to be the problem with my attachment which I drew in Paint and cannot be shown in this format according to the Forum messages.

Hi,

What will be the best suitable shape of the rotating cam ? Will it perform better if there is a slanting towards a side so that the arm lifting peg can easily slide down ? Please suggest...

Best regards,
Bins.

[binspaul]

Hi,

Does anyone have the dimensions for the tonearm lift sections ?

Best regards,
Bins.