Unlike humans that motor ages well. If you truely find a better motor I will be very interested as many have failed. Some Singer sewing machine oil helps as does setting the voltage to your preference, no fancy oils as the bearings don't like it. Voltage can be as low as 70 Vrms and as high as 125 Vrms ( it might get hot although in the spec ). It will work below 70 Vrms if given an initial kick. I doubt the sound is better by doing that. Thin sounding. If the shaft could be pushed through to join two motors could be interesting. I have soldered that motor when repairing coils. That is easier than you would think if the zinc removed. I have often found the coil end or swapped coils. Measure your coils. The should be about the same +/- 10%. K ohms range. It's hard to measure the magnet. If it were down a bit the voltage could be lifted. I like 90 Vrms myself.
The cogging is true and mostly unimportant as it is how most motors work except hysterisis types. DC types in a less obvious way can be worse. The distortion in the current waveform into the motor proves more interesting observation. The Airpax is about 5% THD or a bit worse, that's about as good as it gets. This is a fact of life with these types. The vibration of the motor is mostly due to that. Phase angle of the capacitor also. 220nF might be what you have. Could be 196 nF suits better or whatever. I bet your motor is giving about 50% of what it could and that was true on day one of it's life. As far as I know Ariston had no expert in house for these problems. They did contact Controlology and paid for a design. As far as I know Linn picked up the benefit of that. One can never be sure who did what and when in that story. If you get a Valhalla I have done many modifications to it. Two main ones are very big deals and very easy. The Hercules kit is worth a thought. Get the motor working well before doing that. It is rare that the motors have drastically degraded with time. LP12 springs and rubbers should fit. Make sure the bolts are vertical ( rare that they are ). I suspect the belt is the bigger motor upgrade we can make. The average belt is exacly that. An original that works can be the best. If a genuine LP12 belt could be made to fit that's worth a thought. It is one thing on a LP12 that is excellent above the usual that I doubt many think about.
The cogging is true and mostly unimportant as it is how most motors work except hysterisis types. DC types in a less obvious way can be worse. The distortion in the current waveform into the motor proves more interesting observation. The Airpax is about 5% THD or a bit worse, that's about as good as it gets. This is a fact of life with these types. The vibration of the motor is mostly due to that. Phase angle of the capacitor also. 220nF might be what you have. Could be 196 nF suits better or whatever. I bet your motor is giving about 50% of what it could and that was true on day one of it's life. As far as I know Ariston had no expert in house for these problems. They did contact Controlology and paid for a design. As far as I know Linn picked up the benefit of that. One can never be sure who did what and when in that story. If you get a Valhalla I have done many modifications to it. Two main ones are very big deals and very easy. The Hercules kit is worth a thought. Get the motor working well before doing that. It is rare that the motors have drastically degraded with time. LP12 springs and rubbers should fit. Make sure the bolts are vertical ( rare that they are ). I suspect the belt is the bigger motor upgrade we can make. The average belt is exacly that. An original that works can be the best. If a genuine LP12 belt could be made to fit that's worth a thought. It is one thing on a LP12 that is excellent above the usual that I doubt many think about.
Thanks for clearing that up, Cruz. I wasn't sure.
I would if I could (post a schematic), but I'm away from home at the moment. However, I didn't add a capacitor, I simply replaced one. I will however post a diagram when I get the chance, just to make sure I haven't screwed up.
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Hi Nigel - thanks for your detailed reply. It is very much appreciated.
Excellent and very reassuring info - thank you.
I shall order some immediately
I honestly wouldn't have a clue where to begin
Again, very reassuring - thank you
Yeah, the belt is very old and has seen a lot of action. It's the square cross-section type. I haven't tried sourcing a replacement yet, but I suspect there won't be an abundance of suppliers
I have a 60Hz Ariston RD11 for which I am getting a Hercules board. I do not want to change the crystal on the board and therefore want to machine my own 50Hz brass pulley since it has been next to impossible to find one anywhere.
My belt is 2 mm SQUARE. I want a V groove pulley since the belt nicely fits into it and there is minimal chance of belt slipping off the pulley. I intend to make the inside of the V greater than 90 degrees so the belt is not piched or squeezed.
Am I correct to assume that the INSIDE diameter (bottom of the groove) is the effective diameter since that is the closest to the pulley that moves and starts the motion ?
By that logic, as long as the groove angle is MORE than 90 degrees, there should be no belt squeeze or pinch and the above logic should stand.
So, therefore the INSIDE diameter of the 50Hz pulley should be:
d = 33.3 x subplatter diameter / 250 rpm
From the above, d = 33.3 x 164.44 / 250 = 21.9 mm
I presume this is the INSIDE diameter of the pulley. The outside diameter is irrelevant since the belt contacts the pulley at the bottom of the V and that is what should be the effective diameter.
Is my logic correct ?
Comments ?
Thanks
My belt is 2 mm SQUARE. I want a V groove pulley since the belt nicely fits into it and there is minimal chance of belt slipping off the pulley. I intend to make the inside of the V greater than 90 degrees so the belt is not piched or squeezed.
Am I correct to assume that the INSIDE diameter (bottom of the groove) is the effective diameter since that is the closest to the pulley that moves and starts the motion ?
By that logic, as long as the groove angle is MORE than 90 degrees, there should be no belt squeeze or pinch and the above logic should stand.
So, therefore the INSIDE diameter of the 50Hz pulley should be:
d = 33.3 x subplatter diameter / 250 rpm
From the above, d = 33.3 x 164.44 / 250 = 21.9 mm
I presume this is the INSIDE diameter of the pulley. The outside diameter is irrelevant since the belt contacts the pulley at the bottom of the V and that is what should be the effective diameter.
Is my logic correct ?
Comments ?
Thanks
I purchased an RD-11 from a guy in Canada, while I wait for it to arrive I am getting my mods lined up. First up is trying a few different wood species for an armboard. I had a couple of old armboards from RD-11's that I had modified and sold before so I had templates.
From left to right the wood types are spalted maple, stranded woven bamboo (the hardest wood on the Janka scale) and aromatic cedar.
Here is a link to the hardness scale:
Hardwood Flooring Hardness Guide | Janka Hardness Scale
From left to right the wood types are spalted maple, stranded woven bamboo (the hardest wood on the Janka scale) and aromatic cedar.
Here is a link to the hardness scale:
Hardwood Flooring Hardness Guide | Janka Hardness Scale
Attachments
I have used ebony armboards on many a table, I do like it... not to mention it looks great too. It is very hard to get now & have used cocobolo quite a bit lately.
Well, I have completely refurbished this unit and it is beautiful- but I put the subplatter in to give it a spin and there is no spin at all. At the bottom of the spindle well is either plastic or Teflon (it is white) does anyone know if that is supposed to be there?
If not, is there hardened steel or brass below that?
Thanks for any advice, Nut
Well, I have completely refurbished this unit and it is beautiful- but I put the subplatter in to give it a spin and there is no spin at all. At the bottom of the spindle well is either plastic or Teflon (it is white) does anyone know if that is supposed to be there?
If not, is there hardened steel or brass below that?
Thanks for any advice, Nut
It came with an 8mm, I installed a new 8mm, There is PTFE in the bottom so a smaller one was used- I do have the correct size from the last RD-11 I did but want to aggressively try to remove the Teflon. Teflon is famous for getting soft with the wrong lube, mine is soft. Here is one of my posts over on the VE: Logic dm101 upgrade project - Page 2- Vinyl Engine
I have dozens of project posts over there, but this is the most comprehensive one I could find on the RD-11.
Check out my "Platter Mat Shootout!"
Platter Mat Shootout!- Vinyl Engine
Best, Nut
I have dozens of project posts over there, but this is the most comprehensive one I could find on the RD-11.
Check out my "Platter Mat Shootout!"
Platter Mat Shootout!- Vinyl Engine
Best, Nut
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Beautiful! It's a beautiful work! How I envy people who are creative, able to create such beauty. But when you want beauty too, you have to do something. That's how I got in touch with landscaping contractors. And I am very glad that it was Captain Handy. They are also very talented, professional workers. I now enjoy a beautiful plot of land near my house.
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