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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Hiya,
I have a Nak ST-7 here that has no display at all. All else works fine. Was hopeing someone here either has a schematic or can point me to the fault. Thanks.... |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi MadMutt,
Sorry, that's one I don't have yet. The fault should be easy to troubleshoot. Firstly, does it work otherwise? If so .... Look for bad solder connections. -Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Yup, otherwise it works 100%
Ta, shall pull the main board (oh what fun) and start a joint hunt. Sounds like you think is a common problem ? Are there others I should be tending to while I'm at it ? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi MadMutt,
Change the memory battery (or capacitor). I can't remember which it is. There was a service note to change the diode to the memory battery (or capacitor) to a schottky type to prevent memory loss at start up. The details escape me, but it was a "do to all" type campaign to get all of them no matter why they came in for service. Your's is probably fine. I can not recall wether this was an LED type, or an FL display. If you see a glass tube, it's an FL display. Often with FL types, either the heater connections become intermittent or open (craked connections), or the (approximately -30 VDC) supply fails. It is regulated and can be anywhere from 20 to 35 VDC. Normally negative unless they switch the positive when driving the digits. I doubt it's an LED display because you are more apt to lose segments rather than the entire display. Another thought is this unit may have an AC fail circuit that mutes the display. Normally a small glass diode charging a 1 uF capacitor in the power supply. If I had the diagram I could tell you. -Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Excellent, ta for the pointers.
Memory is a cap, display is Fl. Transformer has 3 tappings - 30vac - 15vac - 3.3vac this one has a gnd (?) with it |
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi MadMutt,
Quote:
Quote:
Normally the 3.3 VAC tap is biased to - 20 ~ 30 VDC -ish. The regulators often go open. Either the digit pins will have a + supply or the heaters will be tied to a - supply with the segments going to + 5 VDC. Measure around the power supply with your meter. Can you please post a photo of the power supply area? -Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Will start with overall pic.
More to follow.... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Power supply
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Display board.
Excuse the ticks, it's so I can keep track of what I've checked... |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Ohh, should also add, I have a 'spare but not' st7 here for comparison purposes.
After a bit of playing around (not easy to pull apart in some areas), I think I've narrowed down the fault to the actual display board. When I use the display board from the 'not spare' unit, it works fine. Guess that means the vfl is shot. Don't spose there's any hope of replacements out there ? |
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