RB250 or RB300

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I just got my first rega Planar 3 which came with an R200, the Japanese one they used to use before 83.
I'm only new to the game.
Should I be trying to buy an RB250 or an RB300?
Origin works better on 250? true?
Also someone please name a few decent cartridges, I have an ortofon OB10 i think it is. is this a good enough first cartridge do y'all reckon?
My budget isn't up in the clouds but i plan to spend around 75 a week upgrading and learning about my rega...I love it.
Not looking for a straight answer guys, just wanna check out the argument and be involved.
 
You should consider these:

1. Upgrade the motor assembly, as found in the new P3. Obtainable from Rega dealers.
2. Yes!.. junk the RB200 and replace with RB250 or RB300.

Many will swear the RB250 performs best with a counterweight upgrade. RB300 has certainly got a better stock counterweight than RB250 and VTF adjuster fitted. Its entirely up to you which one suits you, but upgraded motor and new arm is neccessary to lift the Planar 3 to another level and lease of life.
 
thanks for your help so far.
I have a rega planar 3 as i said, stock as, but with ortofon ob10 cartridge and also nice van den hul wiring.
I clearly need help with it as it seems to be playing 45 at acceptable speed but 33 is slowed right down.
I am going to get the motor upgrade and just keep learning for myself.. i think i have to check out the bearing, the spindle and exactly where the band should sit on the subplatter.
Should the motor be hanging rather loose by the rubber bands?
 
planarboy said:

I clearly need help with it as it seems to be playing 45 at acceptable speed but 33 is slowed right down.
I am going to get the motor upgrade and just keep learning for myself.. i think i have to check out the bearing, the spindle and exactly where the band should sit on the subplatter.
Should the motor be hanging rather loose by the rubber bands?


Look at the motor pulley when it starts up and if it wobbles..its loose and the bands have to be replaced. Being rubber..it doesn't last forever...just like the drive belt.

Please use the ORIGINAL Rega belt which have the correct tension. A compatible belt that's too tight will slow down the speed.
The spindle bearing assembly should be thoroughly cleaned out every few years and replendished with approximately 2-3 drops of good quality SAE90 gear oil. Just be careful not to loose the small ball bearing underneath the spindle, when lifting the platter hub out of the bearing sleeve.
 
arms and such

The new style P3 motor is apparently a huge upgrade. Regas have been clocked at slightly too fast speeds, part of the Rega "charm".

Some people really like the "200" arm. I think my plan of action would be:
  • replace the motor
  • replace the arm
  • upgrade the internal wiring or purchase a modified arm form Origin Live or similar
  • upgrade the counter weight
  • purchase a VTA adapter
  • sell the Rega turntable
  • buy a Linn LP12 or whatever your heart desires for an "upper" level turntable

Once you modify the Rega arm or purchase a modded one from Origin Live (or whoever), you will have a very good performing am, certainly good enough to mount onto an upper level turntable. Keep the "200" arm, remount it on the Rega and sell it as a unit when you upgrade the table.

the Ortofon cartridge is a good performing inexpensive cartridge--you can do a lot worse. Nice thing is you can purchase the OM30 stylus and use the same cartridge body, and will have upgraded the perormance for less than replacing the cartridge with another.

Depending on the rest of your eqyuipment, the next stage would probably require a better phono stage (I say this without knowing what you have now).
 
qwad...

whose to say that any advice there is better than what has been suggestd here? I belong to all three you mention., and I know the advice offered at the alternative sites would be similar.

Just curious what you consider "serious" or seem to imply better responses elsewhere?
 
qwad said:
:D why dont you post your questions on vinyl asylum or vinyl engine, or audiogon? if you want serious and good advice;)


I too am a member of these forums and struggle to see what is wrong with the advice given so far.

With regard to the speed issue; you need to check the speed of both 33.3 and 45rpm with a strobe disc before you go any further; if you don't have one you can print one off from the internet.

As I remember the Rega 3 of that time (if yours has an RB200 fitted it is quite an old one) the Motor is very compliantly mounted. Essentially, it is hung about its perimeter on a rubber band. Speed is simply changed by moving the thin belt from one size of diameter to another on a shallow stepped pulley. The pulley is not crowned as some 'clutch' designs so some of the previous comment on this thread is not really relevant. In truth, I can't think of a mechanism (in this specific case) that would allow 45rpm to be correct but 33rpm to be too slow. As the speed change is completely manual and uses two steps of one pulley the relationship between the two speeds is set. With regard to the belt tension; as long as the motor is not canted over significantly towards the inner platter all should be well. It is possible you have the wrong cross section of belt but that should be obvious to you. Many decks use a relatively broad flat belt but your Rega 3 uses a small diameter (2mm or so) belt (if I remember correctly). You have no control over where the belt runs on the sub platter so this issue is not relevant.

Planerboy, none of the issues you raise in your post should cause the deck to play 33.3's incorrectly compared to 45rpm. All pf those issues mentioned could potentially effect the speed but these issues would affect both speeds equally.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Re: arms and such

Nanook said:
  • sell the Rega turntable
  • buy a Linn LP12 or whatever your heart desires for an "upper" level turntable

A well modded Rega can stand it's own against an LP12

My current table is a Rega 2 of the same vinatge as planarboys 3... It came with a Jelco arm (which i probably installed when it was sold new in the late 70s)... i swapped some design work for a Linn Basik, got given a Garrott P77 in exchange for a favour or 2, same with a corian platter. I have extended the feet with my own frugal-phile(tm) isolation feet. It is a very good $100 TT.

Next i'd like to redo the plinth -- hopefully to further improve sonics, but primarily so i can mount one of my Maywares as a 2nd arm and make it look funkier.

Chris has a Rega 3, which he pulled the RB300 off of, and installed an RB250 with new wire, and telflon & brass counterweight. He also has a corian platter, extended feet and the nut on the bottom of the bearing has been grounded (something i need to do on mine) and with a teflon nut. He has some AudioNote MM in it and it sound's quite fine.

dave

planet10/has owned at least 13 LP12s (1st one cost $180 new!), but probably only 5 Regas. And a couple Oracles, ARs, Ariston, Rotary Platform ....
 
To be fair, the Rega 3 and Linn LP12 are completely different turntables. The Linn is a fully suspended design whereas the Rega is essentially a single slab (I am discounting the relatively minor isolation properties afforded by the Rega's rubber feet). No amount of modification will make these turntables sound very similar. In stock form the LP12 is a significantly better performer than the Rega and whilst it is indeed possible to modify the Rega it is also possible to modify the LP12.
 
planarboy

planet10 has had a significant amount of experience (er don't I mean he is more senior:)) more than I do.

I was assuming that you would want a better table sometime in the future, and any of the mods to the arm would be suiteabe to transfer to your next turntable as well--and allow you to sell the Rega and 200 arm at a later date. I have nothing against a Rega at all, and have listened to quite a few. The RB250 is the way to go if you take Origin Live's word for it.

A couple of interesting ideas for Rega mods that I have always wondered personally about include an acrylic platter, and an new plinth made from an Ikea Lack table. If the Lack is good enough to make a turntable support out of, shouldn't it also make a good plinth?

dave which Oracles?

planarboy: also understand that no one here has any possible personal gain should you choose one arm over the other. We all actually do care, flatlanders and all;)
 
thanks so much for the help so far guys...i dont have a problem with the info here, like that mid thread argument that nearly transpired.
The thing is, I'm still bang in the middle of my first MONTH of turntable owning, so all the info is gold right now.
I had enough sense in me to at least buy a rega deck, while i can only really look at the LP 12 and others right now.
And of course the plan is to mod, mod, mod, until I know it all.
So really a good place to start LEARNING is rega planar 3, exactly 50% of y'all would agree to that, no?
My only piece of equipment of note right now is the 3 and I will let you guys know what I buy.
I do have two shure a68p preamps, and I'm just getting a bit of a custom power supply(2x28v someones doing it for me) up for them, and at least at that point I can listen.
But I'm soooo far behind, need me hand held for sure at this point.
I just busted the blue wire off the pcb.

So in the end i will have a planar 3 with old engine and 200 for sale, my budget allows for part by part, and i plan to make my own plinth.
I haven't thought about sonics and plinth material...
heavy
light
dense
?????
i dunno
I would like to discuss the last point with people, and might start is as a new thread.
Once again, absolutely flattered that you guys all want to help some punk with a planar
sorry about the length of the post, don't worry I will settle...
 
Planerboy, none of the issues you raise in your post should cause the deck to play 33.3's incorrectly compared to 45rpm. All pf those issues mentioned could potentially effect the speed but these issues would affect both speeds equally. [/B][/QUOTE]


thankyou for pointing this out.
It cant be possible.
Come to think of it I cant think of any way ONE speed of a turntable can be out, especially planar with the simple pulleys.
Maybe my ears were tired, Ive been rehearsing live music a lot.
 
we all started [I]somewhere[/I]

"punk" or not, kudos to anyone too young to have purchased new vinyl from a record store getting into vinyl.

I brought up speed issues as it is a well known phenomena with the Rega tables. When I suggested slight, I meant slight.

being an old Planar3, perhaps the pulley has been worn? I haven't had enough time with a Planar3 to know whether this is a possibility--others may have a better idea.

As far as plinths go, in my post I suggested that I would like to look at the idea of using an Ikea Lack table as a plinth---very fiberous/low density. That comes from building a shelf for my old Alex to sit on.

So you haven't the opportunity to hear your Rega yet? If so, it would be a priority to get the phono stage setup first.
 
Re: we all started [I]somewhere[/I]

Nanook said:
So you haven't the opportunity to hear your Rega yet? If so, it would be a priority to get the phono stage setup first. [/B]


No I haven't.
I will be using my shure preamps for the time being once i got power sorted for them.

The ikea idea sounds interesting..i was thinking I might try making my own plinths, I don't really know how they need to be.
I mean, the planar is chipboard, or melamine, and it wouldnt take too much imagination to reproduce one of these.
But how about a light ish wood, like basswood, or jelutong, with a nice maple top, which i have a bit of, laquered, virtually like a guitar body.

Would guitar wood be unsuitable for plinths???
Logic suggests YES because we use different wood for different sound in the guitar world, but in the TT world sound coloration is something we need to avoid.
Or am I just drunk
 
Don't get me wrong, I really think the Rega 3 is an excellent piece of equipment and an excellent place to start your vinyl odyssey :). A also think the Corian platter mentioned is a good idea. There are lots of modification opportunities open to you.

An interesting mod would be to build a split plinth. Two equally sized pieces of MDF off22mm thickness (or similar). Mount the arm and platter to the top bit and mount the motor to the lower bit. You can then have a lot of fun experimenting with isolation between the two - Squash balls, Power (children’s bouncy) balls, spikes etc.
 
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