Technics 1210 problem

matt J · 19th April 2007, 06:04 PM

Hi,
I've done a quick search bit I cant find any problem similar to mine.

Basically I swapped the tone arm for the origin live arm board and RB300, the deck was fine before I started but when I put it all back together it wont start. It powers up and all the lights work but when I press start the platter doesnt move, I cant hear any noise either so its not even trying to spin.

I dont understand what I've done because I havent touched the electrics at all, just swapped over the arm board and arm, I did have to turn it upside down for a moment when I could get to a couple of screws, could this of done anything? also what happens if you try and start it up with the platter removed?

Thanks for any help

Netlist · 19th April 2007, 06:25 PM

Nothing happens when you try to start it without platter.
Do you have the service manual?

/Hugo

matt J · 19th April 2007, 06:46 PM

Yes I've downloaded the service manual, doesnt really help though as I dont know where to start looking for the problem!!

The only reason I mentioned about trying to start it with the platter removed is because someone else asked me this but they havent got back to me as why it matters.

Any suggestions on what the problem might be? I thought it might be a problem between the start/stop button and the main PCB but theres continuity between all the wires at both ends.

Netlist · 19th April 2007, 06:58 PM

Looking at the trouble shooting part of the manual, the most common problem with a dead motor is Q1-Q3 being faulty, apart from a bad fuse.
Check the voltages at these points. Also, Q201 and surrounding components tend to have bad solder joints.

Is your SL1210 an old or a newer model?
You can easily know from the nasty busses in the bottom plate. The new version doesn't have them anymore.

/Hugo

matt J · 19th April 2007, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Netlist
Looking at the trouble shooting part of the manual, the most common problem with a dead motor is Q1-Q3 being faulty, apart from a bad fuse.
Check the voltages at these points. Also, Q201 and surrounding components tend to have bad solder joints.

Is your SL1210 an old or a newer model?
You can easily know from the nasty busses in the bottom plate. The new version doesn't have them anymore.

/Hugo

I'll have a look at what you mentioned.

whats a "nasty busses" ? its a mk5 if that helps.

Netlist · 19th April 2007, 09:25 PM

Don't worry about the busses in that case.
I don't know the correct word in Flenglish.

/Hugo

19th April 2007, 06:04 PM	#1
matt J diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Technics 1210 problem Hi, I've done a quick search bit I cant find any problem similar to mine. Basically I swapped the tone arm for the origin live arm board and RB300, the deck was fine before I started but when I put it all back together it wont start. It powers up and all the lights work but when I press start the platter doesnt move, I cant hear any noise either so its not even trying to spin. I dont understand what I've done because I havent touched the electrics at all, just swapped over the arm board and arm, I did have to turn it upside down for a moment when I could get to a couple of screws, could this of done anything? also what happens if you try and start it up with the platter removed? Thanks for any help

19th April 2007, 09:25 PM	#6
Netlist diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2003	MK5 Don't worry about the busses in that case. I don't know the correct word in Flenglish. /Hugo

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19th April 2007, 06:25 PM	#2
Netlist diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2003	Nothing happens when you try to start it without platter. Do you have the service manual? /Hugo

19th April 2007, 06:46 PM	#3
matt J diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Yes I've downloaded the service manual, doesnt really help though as I dont know where to start looking for the problem!! The only reason I mentioned about trying to start it with the platter removed is because someone else asked me this but they havent got back to me as why it matters. Any suggestions on what the problem might be? I thought it might be a problem between the start/stop button and the main PCB but theres continuity between all the wires at both ends.

19th April 2007, 06:58 PM	#4
Netlist diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2003	Looking at the trouble shooting part of the manual, the most common problem with a dead motor is Q1-Q3 being faulty, apart from a bad fuse. Check the voltages at these points. Also, Q201 and surrounding components tend to have bad solder joints. Is your SL1210 an old or a newer model? You can easily know from the nasty busses in the bottom plate. The new version doesn't have them anymore. /Hugo

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