Lightspeed Attenuator a new passive preamp

There is no argument about yield.

It's whether the S is different production components.

I am only guessing, but is it not customary to run one production line.. some output from the line are not tested and marked and sold as unsorted. Some subset are 100% tested and then graded as sorted. These would also be the ones that yield better specs.

This was the process with TDA1541a chips in the day as the best yeild got a crown and now sell for 10x the regular. Same with all intel processors. One production line produces a full range of processor speeds. The expensive fast ones are simply the ones that happened to come out better. I have to expect it is the same for these LDRs. I recall that when I ordered mine, I ordered 10 sorted ones hoping for a couple of pairs that match. They came back all ten from the C grade and all yielded 4 pairs with very tight matches. The original problem was that the distributor was not keeping them sorted. You could order 10 sorted and get 10 all with different grades at random. Complaints from this forum corrected that if I recall.
 
I use 2 LDRs and one stereo pot for the left channel, and the same for the right channel, and a mono switch . Then I regulate the balance by ear. If the center signal comes out right in the middle of the speakers, it´s fine. Back to stereo and voila. It´s a little more work, but I like it. And I wot go back to Pots anymore. And I only match LDR for the lowest Level, I dont match the upper LDRs at all. I use 4 DC sources , one for every LDR. You don´t have to like that, is just an idea I´m using for a couple of years... but the sound... :)
 
The original problem was that the distributor was not keeping them sorted. You could order 10 sorted and get 10 all with different grades at random. Complaints from this forum corrected that if I recall.

Correct, this was Allied Electronics where I first used to get them years ago, they were getting the NSL32SR2S in 1k lots which were baged and batched from Silonex.
But what was happening Allied were topping up their bins not yet empty with with the new stock (not of the same batch).
I got onto this and complained and Silonex sorted Allied out with their problem, not to top up bins with new stock unless they were empty.

Cheers George
 
Yes they are just that sensitive, especially when they are at higher resistances. At 250R or so you cant budge them but at 10k a 1 degree difference can mean hundreds of ohms. The motion of air from a door opening in another room can make a difference.
I have tested with two LDRs being monitored by one DMM each and have found that some LDRs will move more than others even though they get the same power and are initially set to the same resistance. So this is why I wait about an hour before I start testing and every time I change to a higher resistance I wait about 15 minutes before beginning the next test. I have a LDR attenuator running now that has been running for 2 years with the top off. My channel balance is pretty nice but its in a huge room and there are no hotspots around it. I have never built a LDR attenuator INTO an amp chassis. Not saying I wouldnt but I havent so I cant speak from experience. I can only say that table top testing of individual LDRs makes me think that, yes, temp changes will get them moving and the fact that they might move at different rates could show as a channel imbalance.

I recently was sent a DIY implementation of a Lightspeed for a look. The gentleman had issues with series LDRs not changing value and the balance being off to boot. Here he had done a point to point on breadboard using largish gauge wires as signal and power wires. The problem he had was that it took so much heat to get the wires to accept solder that the LDRs were damaged and in fact one gang of the control pot was damaged so that it no longer worked, while the other gang was okay. Heat kills.

I build LDR attenuators from time to time and sometimes I will find that the LDRs match according to my datasheets but past the max value of my datasheets they do NOT match. I never assume that they will but we can always hope.
With this build I have been able to solve the problem. Usually its one LDR of the 4 that is misbehaving at higher values. So lets say that at max resistance its sitting at 14k and its mate is around 12k and lets say this permeates a bit lower so that at 2k they are a great match and up to 6k they are a decent match and beyond they seem to be hundreds of ohms away from each other. I can fix this with a high value resistor in parallel with the misbehaving LDR. Oh LORD! You cant be serious! A real resistor in the signal?! Well, yes its a very high value that usually fixes the problem and its in parallel with a relatively low value LDR so the amount of signal passing the resistor is quite small in comparison to the offending LDR and to my ears and my Audio Precision the sound is not compromised subjectively or objectively. I start with a 249k and work my way to two 249k in parallel then try a 100k or a 75k. This is usually all it takes.. one of these options will make the problem disappear.
This brings us to gootee's suggestion about parallel LDRs. I made a batch of 10 of these boards a few years ago. I still have one of them. I goofed them because I designed it using the default pin sizes in my pcb layout software and never expanded them. SO I had to drill out several of them and then never rebuilt them. One reason only. It was just beginning to be to much for the builders. I was considering 8 LDRs where 4 are dynamic and 4 stay the same value during operation for fine tuning balance and for limiting max resistance. It works and its nice.
Back to matching: I match up to an average of 6k for a few reasons. 1: 6k sounds fantastic to me compared to other values so thats a subjective reason. 2: LDRs are relatively stable at 6k. They start to get a little squirrely around 5k but 6k is not to bad. Squirrely meaning affected to a greater degree by heat. So if I match to an average of 6k I can be sure I am selling the customer a reality up to that point. When I say an average of 6k I mean that I choose a voltage and current that results in most of the LDRs on the test boards to be grouping around 6k. Still I will have many up into 12-15k but most at 6k.
In no way should anyone assume that a set of LDRs that are tested to, lets say 8k, should be a great match at 15k. They might be but I dont know if they are.
So some things can be done here. If its a Lightspeed implementation a trimmer of a few hundred K can be placed in rheostat mode across each of the gangs of the 100k control pot. Max resistance of the LDRs can be brought a bit lower. Lower means more stable. So you can now control your Lightspeed's total resistance.
Lost in all these posts is a way to increase your Lightspeeds total resistance. A 100R multiturn trimmer in series with the 5V fed TO the volume pot. Around 10R will make dramatic changes in max resistance and you will need the multiturn capability as its very dramatic changes with just a touch of the dial on the trimmer.

Yes, the LDR are so sensitive to the temperature changed, after many tries, I had built one with temperature compensation, I can used any LDR as it can go to 50 ohm or below, I used four pots to adjusted each LDR, I can calibrated it from 5k to 50k ohm ranged. I had put the attenuator on a hot plate, heat up very slow from room temperature to 36.4C and the channel balance changed less than 1db. Set up as: input signal 1 khz 1.5 vrms attenuator=20k
volume set at 12 O'clock. At 20.7C L channel = -7.42db R= -7.84db
at 31.1C L= -6.59db R= -6.80 at 36.4C L= -6.83db R= -7.40db
 

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Yes, the LDR are so sensitive to the temperature changed, after many tries, I had built one with temperature compensation, I can used any LDR as it can go to 50 ohm or below, I used four pots to adjusted each LDR, I can calibrated it from 5k to 50k ohm ranged. I had put the attenuator on a hot plate, heat up very slow from room temperature to 36.4C and the channel balance changed less than 1db. Set up as: input signal 1 khz 1.5 vrms attenuator=20k
volume set at 12 O'clock. At 20.7C L channel = -7.42db R= -7.84db
at 31.1C L= -6.59db R= -6.80 at 36.4C L= -6.83db R= -7.40db

Thats pretty "COOL"! :) How do you compensate for temp? Are you using something similar to the temp comp on a LM334 or are you using thermistors in parallel with the control pot? I suppose that would only work in higher resistances.
 
Thats pretty "COOL"! :) How do you compensate for temp? Are you using something similar to the temp comp on a LM334 or are you using thermistors in parallel with the control pot? I suppose that would only work in higher resistances.

I am not used ccs or fix 5 volt, my designed was variable the voltage to
the LDR led, I used thermistors to compensated the voltage to the led.
It only need to compensated uv/degree, with variable voltage I can used a switch to changed the output voltage to the LDR's and the resistance will changed, this design the attenuator can had multi resistance value.but I found two is good enough high or low resistance, high/20k for my tube amp,low/10k
for solid state amp.
 
Although ingenious, it seems complicated for an amateur like myself. Wouldn't it be a lot simpler to just put it in a closed box away from heat sources and perhaps heat the box with a resistor to keep temps consistent?

Yes Mike, for something that has been proven and working for years by those that have bought and made them as I've stated many times. This and many more that have tried to overcomplicate are just proving what the old adage says "if it aint broken, don't fix it".
I have in the past tried also with master of electronics that can put anyone here to shame to make a system that monitors and re-calibrates automatically, it becomes a complex nightmare that in the end detracts from the purity of the sound.
Because the only way to do it right is to monitor the resistance at different volume levels of each and every ldr, this in itself has to be connected to where the music signal is present and creates it own set of problems, like a feedback arrangements can.
BTW my prototype MkII that I use, was made some 8 years ago and is still in balance, and is on most times 24/7

Cheers George
 
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Quote http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...uator-new-passive-preamp-494.html#post3332786

I thought the issue of plagiarism and in fact posting simply to draw attention to ones own agenda, had been well and truly buried here ? I wondered when someone was going to pick up on this, he’s been riding on the back of this thread for a while now and making money and it’s getting worse
I for one am tired of it. Although I don't contribute a lot here, I read every post with interest, having been a LS owner for more than 6 years. It strikes me as going against almost everything that diyAudio stands for.

Leave this thread alone, unless you have a worthwhile contribution. By all means, promote your LDR's/Product, but on your own thread.

This is purely for discussion of Georges Product, its design and merits. Given the number of posts to date, I'd say it seems quite popular ?

Regards

'Nutz
 
Quote http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...uator-new-passive-preamp-494.html#post3332786

I thought the issue of plagiarism and in fact posting simply to draw attention to ones own agenda, had been well and truly buried here ? I wondered when someone was going to pick up on this, he’s been riding on the back of this thread for a while now and making money and it’s getting worse
I for one am tired of it. Although I don't contribute a lot here, I read every post with interest, having been a LS owner for more than 6 years. It strikes me as going against almost everything that diyAudio stands for.

Leave this thread alone, unless you have a worthwhile contribution. By all means, promote your LDR's/Product, but on your own thread.

This is purely for discussion of Georges Product, its design and merits. Given the number of posts to date, I'd say it seems quite popular ?

Regards

'Nutz


Woah! Gotta jump in here.

This is not a vendor bazaar thread. Presumably, George started this thread to help DIY build their own LDR attenuator. If he wanted to promote or support his own commercial product (which isn't even DIY, so why would he be here?) then he should have gone to the vendor bazaar. This thread is for DIYers who want to build their own LDR attenuator. George provided the schematics and then said "Hey go get your own parts."

For a long time Uriah was the only source for matched LDRs, although now there are others and we know how to match our own using low cost devices. In contrast to George, Uriah does sell parts and kits to assist DIYers in building an LDR attenuator. In general, he takes commercial traffic off the forum, although some users ask questions about his products here. He typically replies via PM. Uriah does have a signature link to his website, which I consider to be a service, not an annoyance.

Hey, I will promote him: If anybody wants to look at a variety of LDR solutions, including switching and remote control, check out Build An Amp. I am in no way affiliated with Uriah. That is a service to members of this forum and in no way hurts George.

Both Uriah and George are vendors of LDR products and both promote their wares in this forum (Uriah subtly, George not so subtly). Since it is a non-commercial forum, if you think that is violation of DIY Audio rules, then report it. At least Uriah has a DIY product.

Think about this for a second: George makes a commercial product, but he comes on this thread to tell us how to make our own and not buy his product. What's the marketing logic of that? Not exactly an A+ in business school. Perhaps some will decide not to build their own and buy George's product -- there's some marketing strategy in that. Most of us DIYers were not going to buy the commercial product anyway, so we're not hurting George any more than he hurt himself by starting this thread.

I also recall that some suppliers have asked George if it is OK to post in this thread and he long ago gave permission for that. Hats off to George a true friend of the DIY community.

Keep in mind that both George and Uriah have done a great service in assisting us DIYers in constructing and designing our own LDR attenuators. Don't screw it up for the rest of us who gain valuable information from Uriah's posts. Nutz, you Uriah an apology.
 
Woah! Gotta jump in here.

George started this thread to help DIY build their own LDR attenuator. This thread is for DIYers who want to build their own LDR attenuator. George provided the schematics and then said "Hey go get your own parts."

Woah there sunshine, you got that a little misconscrewed, yes at first I only gave the idea across for diyers so to use their minds a little, then I gave the schematics, but still held back on the brand/location of the LDR's and matching, again to get the diyers to use their minds a little more, then I showed how to match and where to get the components. I learnt this way of teaching from the master (even though he can be an outright pig sometimes) the one and only Jocko Homo (RIP from these forums)
udailey came in years after this, and asked me if I minded him doing matched ldr's for the diyers. I said yes to the matched ldr's only if they are done right, as I do them, and no kit sales or made up units to be sold, and I think it was 10% precentage of the matched ldr sales had to go back to diyaudio as donations.
So now you have the whole story.
Cheers George
 
Those issues are between you and udailey and none of audionutz' business. Perhaps you didn't know what you were starting up here and how enormously popular your idea would be on DIY Audio. As troystg posted above, both of you have contributed greatly to us DIYers and we are greatful. And as always, you are a gentleman.
 
That's ok Michael, but get the facts before posting, especially when it's about me. I knew I would be big, how big I didn't know. Because of feedback and interest back in 1979 or whenever it was, everyone was stunned at the sound then compared to preamps but it was about as reliable as an as a drunk in a brewery, Melos found that out in the 90's also.

Cheers George
 
Quote http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...uator-new-passive-preamp-494.html#post3332786

I thought the issue of plagiarism and in fact posting simply to draw attention to ones own agenda, had been well and truly buried here ? I wondered when someone was going to pick up on this, he’s been riding on the back of this thread for a while now and making money and it’s getting worse
I for one am tired of it. Although I don't contribute a lot here, I read every post with interest, having been a LS owner for more than 6 years. It strikes me as going against almost everything that diyAudio stands for.

Leave this thread alone, unless you have a worthwhile contribution. By all means, promote your LDR's/Product, but on your own thread.

This is purely for discussion of Georges Product, its design and merits. Given the number of posts to date, I'd say it seems quite popular ?

Regards

'Nutz

Oh dear! Implying that making money or that making a (gasp!) profit is somehow untoward, or wrong, is promoting a political agenda (and is most-utterly misguided, in my opinion), which is not tolerated, anywhere on diyaudio. I am profoundly offended by your post. Please, cease and desist from posting anything else with any implied or overt socialist or communist dogma.