About bass. The AKG K semi-open studio line has beautiful qualities but its lean enough. Clean and open for the price, efficient, has treble extension, great for Jazz, voice, guitar, has a midbass hump area that helps it round out the mids but its still rolling off more than average in the lows. In other words wait to listen with other headphones too before tweaking anything in the electronics.
About the heat maybe you could cut a large window on the top and attach a black metallic mesh. It will let it breath and the led bars will glow on the ceiling when the lights are low
This combo was with GRADO PS500 in mind, which I use on work
The sound I describe was with Grado
but as I mention it's nothing to warry about...maybe I just get used to buummy sound of PC soundcards
AKG was only for home tasting (I bearly use them, much more like the sound of grado over them (even SR60)
For heat...will give it a thought...but I'm happy for now
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I have the SR60 too. I had also listened to a friend's SR225e that I kept for a day. Its always the Grado exciting forward sound signature in different clarity levels. They mellowed out on the DCG3 coming across less edgy and wider than on some other amps. Did not do really balanced bass again though. Done it with some big alternative Grado round the ear pads that he also bought but was becoming bit distant in the mid-highs too unfortunately.
That one OPA I haven't tried, has modern spec, it could be nice. I originally tried OPA2604 and OPA2134. A DCG3 builder in a local forum was very much for the OPA2134 in the servo after he exchanged some types including the AD823 so I gave it another go in mine to make sure but I returned to AD823. It just seems more out of the way to me. So its kinda of a system and preference thing if any. Some other builders even say don't bother, no difference when rolling the servo chip between adequate ones.
Those are Antek AS-0518 toroids with some cans I found on ebay. Like these 1PC 105*45mm Metal Shield Plate Black Toroid Transformer Cover Chassis | eBay
Antek doesn't offer one for their 50va toroids.
Antek doesn't offer one for their 50va toroids.
Well drats. Drilling the holes for pot, switch, selector and headphone jack and botched a couple of holes and broke a bit in one of the small ones needed for securing the Neutrik headphone jack. This is the 10mm front on the Pesante case. Not able to drill through the hardened steel of the bit. To further add to my suffering the Modushop factory is closed for holiday this month. Oh well, next month for completion.
I have it working without the front playing through two Pass F4 amps in mono-balanced mode. Very nice. I need to listen a lot more. I also have the Pass BA3 pre, Bruno Putzey pre and Doug Self pre and will want to compare them.
All in all, very nice. Thank you Salas for bringing forth this design to the world and Mike for spending I don't know how many hours putting the boards and parts together for sale.
I have it working without the front playing through two Pass F4 amps in mono-balanced mode. Very nice. I need to listen a lot more. I also have the Pass BA3 pre, Bruno Putzey pre and Doug Self pre and will want to compare them.
All in all, very nice. Thank you Salas for bringing forth this design to the world and Mike for spending I don't know how many hours putting the boards and parts together for sale.
Acrylic or similar plastic makes a great temporary front panel, and a bit easier to drill. Most any hardware store will have sheets of it and can usually cut to size at least approximately. If you have a router you can flush trim with the botched 10mm piece as template for smooth/clear edges. If you go the plastic route careful drilling near the edges or it'll chip out.
BK
BK
You are welcome. When it already works steadily without hum and buzz and sounds clear its the one major building step well done. Congrats for that. For mechanically finishing it, there's nothing more you can do than wait for a new front panel or go acrylic as BK said. Bad luck for now. Do your listening sessions to run it in and roll to best op-amp for your system or de-ring the trafos with Quasimodo, or change bias to higher and listen to it if you use the lower bias, doing useful small tunings that will keep you interested while waiting to box it up properly in other words.
I feel your pain drpro - we've all had something similar happen.
The big heat sink drpro's using made me wonder whether I need to use one or can get away mounting directly to the side of the chassis - it's a HiFi2000 Galaxy (not the Dissipante) which has some heatsinking:
Galaxy Maggiorato
Any thoughts on suitability? I like the idea of the heatsink being the side of the chassis for maximum ambient benefit, or should I find a heatsink to fit internally to be sure?
The big heat sink drpro's using made me wonder whether I need to use one or can get away mounting directly to the side of the chassis - it's a HiFi2000 Galaxy (not the Dissipante) which has some heatsinking:
Galaxy Maggiorato
Any thoughts on suitability? I like the idea of the heatsink being the side of the chassis for maximum ambient benefit, or should I find a heatsink to fit internally to be sure?
Thanks BK and Salas for the kind words. From watching other builds I think you could go either way Simon. I found a pair of these sinks online that included suitable clips meaning no drilling/tapping of holes. I'll make a photo later today.
We are in the path of the total eclipse plus I am working so today is a bit crazy.
Thanks
David
We are in the path of the total eclipse plus I am working so today is a bit crazy.
Thanks
David
With an aluminum bar interface between the Mosfets and this ribbed side panel/sink it will do well for 100mA bias level at least. The bar will add mass and contact area. The side panel is then in direct contact with the room air and that helps. Use thermal paste between bar and panel.