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Old 28th June 2013, 08:39 PM   #11
Nisbeth is offline Nisbeth  Denmark
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I recently made a PCB layout for the JLM design and it seems to work quite well. The board is mono and measures app. 1.9*1.6".


/U.
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Old 3rd July 2013, 09:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoppage View Post
Right...great... I'm off to electronic suppliers.
I'll be back.....

P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }A:link { } Panic! I've bought two VU- Meters from Ebay (see Thumb)
& I think they may be duds. No response when connected to amp input direct and no response when connectted through this basic one-transistor circuit circuit...
Simple analog vu-meter driver ?
...entry by gpapag. (However, a very fast connection to speaker and the arrow flies to far side of the scale)!
Each picture of a meter that I've seen so far features a long barrel-like enclosure behind...coil and magnet. With these two the extension is quite small (please see pics). Question is, given the dimensions, do these two hold a mechanism or not? If it turns out that the coil-magnet mechanism is just smaller than most and the meters are ok., then I desperately need someone to point me to an alternative basic circuit/driver probably with rectifiers and it needs to work from 14.5 Volts. Please help
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File Type: jpg VU Meter Ebay.jpg (135.6 KB, 211 views)
File Type: jpg VUMeter Rear3.JPG (694.3 KB, 204 views)
File Type: jpg VU Meter Img2.JPG (215.2 KB, 191 views)

Last edited by stoppage; 3rd July 2013 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Ebay Link
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Old 3rd July 2013, 09:44 PM   #13
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If it's an a.c. meter movement, all you need is a resistor in series with the meter. The value of the resister will depend on the sensitivity of the meter. Start with something like 3.3k.
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Old 3rd July 2013, 09:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 00940 View Post
I've been there recently...

Most cheap meters on ebay aren't made for AC but for DC. They need extra rectifiers.
How can I verify if it's A.C? It's cheap, I think it's D.C. Im not even sure if it has a solenoid (see previous post)
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Old 3rd July 2013, 10:02 PM   #15
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If you have a multimeter, switch it to 'OHMS' to measure resistance.
Connect it to the meter and note whether the meter goes up or down.
Reverse the multimeter leads and look at the meter again. If the VU meter goes up with the multimeter connected either way, it's an a.c. meter movement. If the meter 'pegs' to the left with one of the connections, it's a d.c. meter movement. If it's a d.c. movement, why not just feed the meter through a diode (to change the a.c to d.c.)?
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Old 4th July 2013, 03:00 PM   #16
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O.k., the meter test indicates that it's D.C. With the signal fed through a diode it indicates nothing. This shouldn't be bloody rocket science, what's wrong?
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Old 4th July 2013, 03:03 PM   #17
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You ARE feeding the meter from the output of your amplifier aren't you?
You can't feed the meter from a line level source.
If the meter needle moves to the left, reverse the diode.
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Old 4th July 2013, 03:34 PM   #18
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Thanks for your patience, I thought all these meters were line level. I don't want to damage speakers or amp., does the meter just go straight accross a speaker (parallel) or in series please?
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Old 4th July 2013, 03:40 PM   #19
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The meter goes right across the speaker output. You will need a series resistor to keep the meter from 'pegging' at normal listening levels. The value of the resistor will depend on your listening habits.
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Old 4th July 2013, 04:48 PM   #20
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Sorry, but if by "pegging" you mean shooting off the scale at normal levels, I have the opposite scenario....the volume has to be REALLY high before the meter indicates a level
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